2008 KLR Idle'ing issues... - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

 
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post #1 of 7 Old 03-30-2013, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy 2008 KLR Idle'ing issues...

Hi All,

Hate to post a ? as my first post, but wanted some advice/help as to an issue I'm having.

I've got an 08 KLR, with about 13000 miles on it, has had an eagle mike doo and torsion spring for about half those miles(I installed shortly after purchasing). I'm just getting her back running for spring time (I live near detroit MI) but after putting everything back together, I can't seem to get her to stay idling. The bike will run with some throttle when warm, and will hold its idle with choke on at cold. but once the temp gauge starts climbing the bike dies out.

Here is what I just got done doing
  • Valve check/adjustment-Left side valves to upper end of spec/hare over (feeler gauge very tight at .011 and .09 (exhaust/intake), right side within spec fully)
  • Thermo-bob-tested with no leaks (second time) but radiator seems to smoke/steam as the bike warmed up-not sure if this was from spilled coolant while filling or not..but it does make me nervous. Fan does turn on, but only after the needle gets about 3/4 of the way to the top of the gauge
  • moved exhaust cam one tooth forward and re-opened up valve cover and double checked to insure it was only moved one tooth and that valve clearance measurements were accurate..
  • Pulled and cleaned carb-including removing jets, shooting them with carb cleaner, and then using an air nozzle to blow the cleaner out the small holes,
  • did a sort of 22 cent ish mod, by putting one washer (brass, .025") under the needle
  • Drilled out idle plug-I did manage to hit the idle screw, and when I checked it's setting it was only open a crack.so I turned it closed and then backed it off about 1/2-3/4 of a turn

This is my first bike that I've ever really wrenched on, and only the second bike I've ever owned, so I'm a still trying to learn my way through things and be cautious with them.. and I've been googling like crazy trying to figure out what might be the issue-figured i'd try posting and see if one of you can share some additional insight on what may be the cause. The only things I can think of right now is maybe the idle mixture isn't set correctly (since even cold the bike won't idle off of choke) or maybe there's a vacuum issue from the petcock? ( I read that will cause issues at warmer temps) or some combination of both? Does this sound right?

Any ideas/Suggestions? or worst case, even someone within somewhat reasonable (8 ish hours) distance I could take it too (I have a ranger that's my daily driver in the winter) that's trustworthy to have a look see, I'd rather make that my last option..but I'm really serious about getting this issue fixed.

Many, many thanks for the help and patience!

Karl
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post #2 of 7 Old 03-30-2013, 07:19 PM
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when you did your 22 cent mod ish did you also drill out the slider hole?

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post #3 of 7 Old 03-30-2013, 07:30 PM
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Go back in and turn the pilot jet screw out to 2 turns out from gently seated.

Willys
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post #4 of 7 Old 03-30-2013, 08:29 PM
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i also mentioned this but apparently it didnt post, oh well, check the idle mixture screw as willy's says

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post #5 of 7 Old 03-31-2013, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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OK, just came back in, had my sister's boyfriend over too, and he looked at it (more of a backyard mechanic than I am) too...

I adjusted idle screw more open-had to kind of hack to make a tool (took a small flathead "bit" from a cheapie toolkit and cut it down to allow me to adjust idle screw with hand) and turned idle screw what seems to be at least another turn or so out giving me what should be at least 1.5-2 turns out on the idle/pilot screw.

This seemed to make the bike idle smoother, but rpms at idle, with full choke, still never exceeded 2000 and once the bike warmed up the RPMS would steadily drop (with choke still applied), instead of increasing, and then bike would eventually stall out once rpms dropped below 1000. Without choke, bike would steadily loose RPMS and then stall out.

One thing I did notice was that one of the nuts bolting on the stock exhaust header came came off (lol KLR stands for Keep Loctite Ready) and the other bolt was loose.. so I tightened them both up, and this seemed to smooth things out a little too.

While the bike was running, I tried spraying some carb cleaner over the known vacuum areas (petcock, and where the lines go into the carb at that "t"/"L" fitting between the carb and the engine above where the choke screws into the carb) to see if this would cause an RPM surge or spike hopefully giving an indication of a vacuum leak.. it didn't...

She seems to run strong with throttle applied-smooth and a little less vibes then before...which would to me indicate that said engine work (valves/timing) is good? I'm thinking its vacuum or carb related?... but can't seem to figure out what.. Could the AIS system be causing this? I've seen the block off kits and thought about just pulling the darn thing since it was getting in the way a bit when I was checking the valves. Michigan doesn't do a smog check so I figured i'd be ok.. But not really wanting to mess with too much either.. could there be some sort of a leak from here though that could be causing my issues?

Anybody have any ideas? She will start just fine (within 5-10 seconds of pressing the starter button) and seem to idle fine when cold other then the RPMS not climbing as they used too with the choke on as the bike warmed. it's still acting pretty similar to how it was before I added the washer onto the needle..that really didn't seem to make any difference. I didn't drill the slide, as I wasn't sure if that was really a good idea or not at the time given what was already going on.. Would drilling the slide be a good place to start?

Many thanks for the help so far-hoping maybe someone out there has had similar issue or can better pinpoint what they think is wrong. Gotta be something easy that I'm missing. At this point, I'm tempted just to order the KLX needle and Jet kit and re-jet..but as it is this is the first time I've ever really played with a carb..

Last edited by krazykarl84; 03-31-2013 at 05:31 PM.
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post #6 of 7 Old 03-31-2013, 05:31 PM
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Go back in and reclean the carb, use Pinesol cleaner and let it soak for 24 hours with a shake half way through. Dismantle the entire carb and take all rubber parts and leave them out of the soaking solution. But soak everything not rubber except the slider. I know normally carb cleaner will do the trick, but this way you will know for sure it is 100% clean. This pinesol work wonders. Soak and then wash in hot water, blow all air/fuel passages clear then spray carb cleaner just to be sure and then blow out once again.....KLX kit is a good one. Well worth the $$ it costs. Hope this helps.

Willys
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post #7 of 7 Old 04-01-2013, 03:01 PM
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Hey Karl, just out of curiosity, have you checked the idle set screw on the side of the carb? Mine needed to be adjusted a couple of times after I did all the carb mods, and then after I opened the exhaust, just wondering!
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