OK, just came back in, had my sister's boyfriend over too, and he looked at it (more of a backyard mechanic than I am) too...
I adjusted idle screw more open-had to kind of hack to make a tool (took a small flathead "bit" from a cheapie toolkit and cut it down to allow me to adjust idle screw with hand) and turned idle screw what seems to be at least another turn or so out giving me what should be at least 1.5-2 turns out on the idle/pilot screw.
This seemed to make the bike idle smoother, but rpms at idle, with full choke, still never exceeded 2000 and once the bike warmed up the RPMS would steadily drop (with choke still applied), instead of increasing, and then bike would eventually stall out once rpms dropped below 1000. Without choke, bike would steadily loose RPMS and then stall out.
One thing I did notice was that one of the nuts bolting on the stock exhaust header came came off (lol KLR stands for Keep Loctite Ready) and the other bolt was loose.. so I tightened them both up, and this seemed to smooth things out a little too.
While the bike was running, I tried spraying some carb cleaner over the known vacuum areas (petcock, and where the lines go into the carb at that "t"/"L" fitting between the carb and the engine above where the choke screws into the carb) to see if this would cause an RPM surge or spike hopefully giving an indication of a vacuum leak.. it didn't...
She seems to run strong with throttle applied-smooth and a little less vibes then before...which would to me indicate that said engine work (valves/timing) is good? I'm thinking its vacuum or carb related?... but can't seem to figure out what.. Could the AIS system be causing this? I've seen the block off kits and thought about just pulling the darn thing since it was getting in the way a bit when I was checking the valves. Michigan doesn't do a smog check so I figured i'd be ok.. But not really wanting to mess with too much either.. could there be some sort of a leak from here though that could be causing my issues?
Anybody have any ideas? She will start just fine (within 5-10 seconds of pressing the starter button) and seem to idle fine when cold other then the RPMS not climbing as they used too with the choke on as the bike warmed. it's still acting pretty similar to how it was before I added the washer onto the needle..that really didn't seem to make any difference. I didn't drill the slide, as I wasn't sure if that was really a good idea or not at the time given what was already going on.. Would drilling the slide be a good place to start?
Many thanks for the help so far-hoping maybe someone out there has had similar issue or can better pinpoint what they think is wrong. Gotta be something easy that I'm missing. At this point, I'm tempted just to order the KLX needle and Jet kit and re-jet..but as it is this is the first time I've ever really played with a carb..
Last edited by krazykarl84; 03-31-2013 at 05:31 PM.