What seat to buy and why - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 12 Old 03-30-2013, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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What seat to buy and why

http://seatconcepts.com/products#!/~...354&id=7268087

http://seatconcepts.com/products#!/~...354&id=7268086

In any of the two choices would i have to mod the seat pan.
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post #2 of 12 Old 03-30-2013, 08:38 PM
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I have the second kit, to my knowledge neither kit requires any modifications to your seat pan. If you want to be positive about the lower one you could just shoot him an email, I have him on my gmail contacts and he's on all the time .
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post #3 of 12 Old 03-30-2013, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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i think this is the route i'm going, can you shoot him a message for me and ask if the seat pan has to be modded.
.

thanks

Last edited by toslow; 03-30-2013 at 09:02 PM.
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post #4 of 12 Old 03-30-2013, 09:14 PM
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It doesn't, but you're going to need a decent staple gun.

T

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post #5 of 12 Old 03-30-2013, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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i don't know which one to order, i think the low step will push me to close to the tank.
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post #6 of 12 Old 03-30-2013, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toslow View Post
i don't know which one to order, i think the low step will push me to close to the tank.
It will. I had the Dual Platform Corbin and every time I let off on the gas or hit the brakes it would jam me into the tank. I had to brace against the pegs when decelerating to prevent it, very uncomfortable! However, the regular Seat Concepts seat is wider than the stocker so it makes it a bit harder to reach the ground. I noticed it as I'm only 5'9".
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post #7 of 12 Old 03-30-2013, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by toslow View Post
i don't know which one to order, i think the low step will push me to close to the tank.
I just took my bike with my new Sargent low version for it's first ride. It is a low, flat and so is the same height front to back like the version 2 seat concepts. I really like it. You are not forced to sit in a pocket or on the edge of a step. You can move ahead or back at will as needed. I guess what I am saying is the version 2 would be what I would go with. I don't see how thicker padding that far back is a benefit on the version1.
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post #8 of 12 Old 04-24-2013, 10:40 PM
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I had a Rick Mayer on my FJR, Hated it. Had a Corbin on one of my 08 BMW GSA's, Hated it.. Going to try a Tall Seat Concepts on my KLR. Hopefully will love it.. I find out next week..
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post #9 of 12 Old 04-25-2013, 09:00 AM
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If you can touch the ground with the stock seat with the balls of your feet or flat foot it, then I wouldn't ever go with a dished seat for obvious reasons. The boys will get crushed from what most owners or dished seats say. BUT, if hieght is an issue then you have little choice other than to lower the bike using lowering links BUT these will effect the operation of your suspension making it softer than stock stressing the shock and spring.
I personally would carefully remove the stock cover and foam from your pan and see what you have. Then buy some good quality(best to be exact) chip carpet under pad from any carpet install shop. You want a 2o inch strip maybe 15 feet long to be safe. Sorry can't remember how much I used on my two home made seats. You also need a top quality spray can of adhesive or two. Do not buy crap adhesive it will come apart, ask me how I learned, yes I can be cheap too! Cut the foam to the length of the seat and include the front horn for two runs. Then for the rest just run the foam upto the front horn. Carefully mate the front to the flats sections by angling the cuts. You want to cut the side of the foam to the width if the seat pan all the way along. Do not angle it in yet. At every layer sit on the seat to find the hieght you need or desire. While in you normal riding position. The add another layer or two. These layers will be carved into to give you your personal shape which makes you happy ass wise. Now you need to angle slowly the front to allow your legs to drop without pinching the inside of your legs when your feet are touching the ground. DO NOT go too far back on the seat angle wise as you need to have the width in the rear part to hold up your ass similar to a bar stool. Once you get the front inner leg section dealt with sit back in your riding position and use a marker and mark where your ass cheeks come to at the back of your arse. Make a realistic mark following the shape as best you can. Now get off, and mark two more marks an inch each side of the one you first made. This will be the dip in the seat or the start of the forming in that last one or two layers you added to the hieght of the seat foam remember. You must now carefully grind using a 4" disc grinder(it will work very well if you take your time and do not put too much downward pressure onto the foam) You can use a spare couple of glued layers to test with if you feel nervous to see what happens. Think of the shape of a bar stool or an old steel farm tractor seat. It has two recesses for your ass cheeks and a raised area for your groin with a lip behind your cheeks. This is the basic shape you are after. Once you get it slowly, you can gently fine tune it for your ass shape. Take your time and sit for a long time after each carefull grinding session. It may feel perfect at first but after half an hour it may show you it is just not qite right and a bit more needs to be taken out. You can not add foam so beware! If you do screw up and dig out too much you must replace a complete layer IF you can seperate the layers, if you can't, then you have to start again. Again ask me how I learned. Carpet foam is cheap so don't worry too much.
When you get the perfect shape for your ass, sit on it for an hour as you would if riding for an hou or even just ride it for an hour without a cover on the foam. Be 100% sure it's perfect. Then take it to a seat or baot covering shop and get them to cover it for you. They should use a layer of bute I think it's called to remove any imperfections in your grinding work. But you should have made it perfect and also slightly rounded the edges off(just slightly) all the way around.
The finished product would have taken a good day or afternoon to make and will fit you perfectly and allow you to ride days at a time without ever thinking of ass pain.
I can ride across the country and never think about my seat or ass.
I own a Rick Mayer seat and prefer my home made seat for long distances.....

To soften the seat you can use a sheep skin as a comfort layer and also to help keep the sweat issues away....they work extremely well.

Hope tis helps....there are seat making threads on the different sites as I have seen them in the past that have pics etc, not sure if they are here or not.

http://s28.photobucket.com/user/Will...rary/KLR%20685

Look around and you can see my first seat....it lasted 5 years and cost me $50 to make if I remember correctly. I did cover it myself so please don't think your seat will look similar when professionally covered.

Willys
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post #10 of 12 Old 04-25-2013, 12:16 PM
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It doesn't, but you're going to need a decent staple gun.

T

I've done several seats with a cheapo Stanley Stapler. Get the right size staples and have someone to help hold and stretch the cover.


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