Making a kickstand adjustable - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 31 Old 04-06-2013, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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Making a kickstand adjustable

I'm putting lowering links on my 09, and bringing the front down 1"or so, to help my 5'7" self learn to ride this thing.
That might only be temporary, so I'd like to make the kickstand as adjustable as the suspension, which can actually lower the bike 1", 2", or 3". I'm not planning on using the latter, but seems useful to give the kickstand some decent increments of adjustment.

Step 1:
Get the old kickstand off.
Hmm. My buddy's bike jacks aren't in my garage anymore. How is a bike going to stay upright without a kickstand?
A: improvise.
1365289119842.jpg
I added a second one after taking this to satisfy my paranoid self.

Do all kickstands have dual springs?
Mine did:
1365289315722.jpg
That shape with the two bends is a bit of a bitch. If it was straight like the gen 1 bikes, I'd weld in some 3/4" threaded rod and a couple nuts to make it adjustable like a turnbuckle. Can't do that here.

Step 2: the plan
So I'm going to section the lower portion of the kickstand, creating two inserts to provide stock length, 1" shorter, or 2" shorter. And actually, the pipe pieces I cut are really one exactly at 1" and one about 7/8"... decided not to cut another one because that opens a little more adjustability - wish I had done it at 3/4" now
1365290137531.jpg

Next I need to cut the sections out of the kickstand, insert them into the pipe segments, weld them in place.

The trickiest part I'm most concerned about will be drilling for the bolts to hold the kickstand together. They have to be precise, so the kickstand sections are pressing against one another entirely to support the bike, and not against the bolts, which could shear them... and the hole locations all need to be identical so that they are interchangeable with one another.

I'll tackle that once I get there.

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Last edited by geolemon; 04-06-2013 at 07:38 PM.
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post #2 of 31 Old 04-06-2013, 10:43 PM
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Good looking bike in the background...
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post #3 of 31 Old 04-06-2013, 11:07 PM
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just a thought i had, thought about making it spring loaded? like get a piece of pipe thicker diameter than the kickstand, cutting the kickstand then using the bigger diameter pipe with a stiff spring in it that still has some flex? idk hard to write out the picture in my head.

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post #4 of 31 Old 04-06-2013, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Slowpoke View Post
Good looking bike in the background...
Haha... that's a Honda CB100. Or it was. 1974 if I remember right. A buddy of mine tore it all down. Looks like a BMX bike compared to the KLR. It's almost all back together now. I can't ride that bike to work for sure.

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just a thought i had, thought about making it spring loaded? like get a piece of pipe thicker diameter than the kickstand, cutting the kickstand then using the bigger diameter pipe with a stiff spring in it that still has some flex? idk hard to write out the picture in my head.
Sounds close to what I'm doing, sans spring.
Those pipe pieces are a 1" ID pipe - the kickstand is exactly 1" OD.
So, I'll cut the kickstand into pieces, and the two sections I cut out of the kickstand will go into the pipe pieces, and be welded into the pipe pieces.
I'll add some bolts to hold them together, but basically they'll stack together like lego blocks after that - the kickstand pieces will insert into the next section's pipe piece.

I'll find out tomorrow, but I'm hoping it's a tight fit. If not, I may need to get creative on making them a tight fit.
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post #5 of 31 Old 04-07-2013, 08:17 AM
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What about....?
Cutting the foot off the pipe, welding on a solid bar or another strong pipe with the outside dia. the same as the inside dia of the kick stand, then cut the kickstand down by whatever length you desire. Weld on that collar you have in the pic as a strengthener for the kickstand and insert the new thinner but stronger lower end into the shortened kickstand . Once you get the height you desire mark and then drill a locating/holding hole that you can thread to set the new hieght at. If you use a grade 8 or greater bolt it would be stronger enough to hold the weight of the bike. This way you can set the hieght to whatever hieght you desire with a simple adjustment of that bolt in the collar. You just need to allow for the inner pipe to be able to slide far enough inside the original kickstand tube. It sounds complicated in this explanation but it would work and be strong for sure.

Did this make any sense...????

Hope it helps......

Willys
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post #6 of 31 Old 04-07-2013, 08:41 AM
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Another idea stolen from ADVrider...
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=638653
Personally I dont like this, just putting it out there as an idea.

Why not just cut the foot off, trim the tube as needed and weld another larger foot on? Simple, easy, as strong as it was, just shorter. I did it this way to a different bike with no troubles.

Gray-haired riders donít get that way from pure luck.

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post #7 of 31 Old 04-07-2013, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by willys View Post
What about....?
Cutting the foot off the pipe, welding on a solid bar or another strong pipe with the outside dia. the same as the inside dia of the kick stand, then cut the kickstand down by whatever length you desire. Weld on that collar you have in the pic as a strengthener for the kickstand and insert the new thinner but stronger lower end into the shortened kickstand . Once you get the height you desire mark and then drill a locating/holding hole that you can thread to set the new hieght at. If you use a grade 8 or greater bolt it would be stronger enough to hold the weight of the bike. This way you can set the hieght to whatever hieght you desire with a simple adjustment of that bolt in the collar. You just need to allow for the inner pipe to be able to slide far enough inside the original kickstand tube. It sounds complicated in this explanation but it would work and be strong for sure.

Did this make any sense...????

Hope it helps......
It definitely makes sense, given a big fat bolt, but would work better on a gen 1 kickstand which is straight. Then you'd have all kinds of adjustment.
On this gen 2 kickstand, sadly each straight section is only 3". To make one section able to slide into the other, you'd essentially only end up with at most 1.5" of drop (you'd take the 3" straight section and make it half pipe, half kickstand) - not that that is bad, but also couldn't be restored to full length (without resulting in less adjustability), because it requires some minimum overlap ( > bolt thickness). Somewhat the same limitation of the threaded rod approach.

I wish I had a gen 1 kickstand, I'd try to get that to work for sure, but I don't even know if the pivot hole diameter is the same. Only seen pictures.

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post #8 of 31 Old 04-07-2013, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by flash View Post
Another idea stolen from ADVrider...
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=638653
Personally I dont like this, just putting it out there as an idea.

Why not just cut the foot off, trim the tube as needed and weld another larger foot on? Simple, easy, as strong as it was, just shorter. I did it this way to a different bike with no troubles.
Yep, that's the gen 1 kickstand... It's all straight. That would make life much easier.

I think that approach had lots of merit, I personally would have maximized strength by minimizing the threaded length and made the threaded rod as fat as possible.

As to "why not weld the foot in a shorter position?"
Because then it wouldn't be adjustable. If I put the suspension back to stock, I'd be out of luck.

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post #9 of 31 Old 04-07-2013, 12:38 PM
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Can you weld and have a welder? If so I would be doing it that way and rewelding once you figure out where you finally end up with the hieght of the bike. That's the joys of working with steel. It's fixable and adjustable when you own a welder....lol.

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post #10 of 31 Old 04-07-2013, 12:54 PM
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thats why i was thinking of the spring inside it instead of a bolt adjuster, when you got on or off it would compress down making it easier for you to get off, then it would go back into position once you were off of it. idk i come up with some hairbrained idea's sometimes

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