Seems like I keep coming across stuff for my search on installing an aux fuse block of people saying don't attach to much electrical to the KLR cause the Stator can't handle it. I am not sure if they are refering to Pre 2008 or are including my 2011 KLR. Any idea on how many watts the Gen 2 Stators produce? Is this something I need to be concerned about? I am planning on getting the Eastern Beaver PC-8 fuse panel and not sure if I want a 30amp relay or a 60amp? Any opinions? Here is a photo of the Fuse panel...



Wiring Kit



Also I am going to buy the wiring kit and hoping to install panel and relay under the seat as long as it fits. Any idea on what length wiring kit I should buy? I can get anywhere from 18"-72" in 6" increments. Gut feeling tells me that 18" would be plenty but my bike is so new to me that I have not ever even had the seat off it yet so I don't know what space will be like when I take it off. I have hear some people mounting it right above or next to the battery.... I don't really care if it's readily accessible since I don't plan on having to mess with it all the time once it's installed. Thoughts? Ideas?

30 amps is all you need; if you draw 60 amps with a KLR, you have problems!

As to accesibility . . . whether you PLAN to mess with your fuse block or not, you WILL mess with it when you blow a fuse! Thus, an accessible, protected location is desirable, if this "Power Center 8" is your chosen power distribution component.

Rather than concern yourself with the total power output of your Generation 2 stator, more important is the AVAILABLE wattage, beyond your stock lighting/ignition/signaling requirements, for your added electrical accessories (like heated gear) and mods (like auxiliary or "trick" lighting).

Your bike, but . . . retrofitting the power distribution system, though beneficial, would not be my FIRST priority modifying a new bike; YMMV! The stock electrics perform an adequate job; improving the power distribution would be somewhat lower pn my "I'm gonna do it" list.

I have no intentions of upgrading Stator etc if it is not needed. But I do think a aux fuse block of some sort is very necessary considering I want to be able to run GPS, Cell charger, Heated Gear, Heated Grips etc. The eastern beaver just seemed like the best idea for a fuse block. The main reason I am considering under the seat is because is would be out of the way of most the weather, dirt etc. I don't know of any other place on a KLR that would provide any more protection than under there. All the other places I would think would also require removing plastics etc? I definately don't want something out in the open.. That would not be good. If you have other better places I'm all ears... Thanks..

I hear Eastern B has great stuff. The one made by Centech, available here, has the relay built in the box and won't require coiling so much wire under the seat.

I run GPS and heated gear together off a single 10A inline fuse connected to a relay so it turns on and off with the ignition. The single fuse provides enough protection and enough amperage. My needs are simpler than yours; I charge my cell phone only rarely and just unplug the GPS for that hour.

If I added heated grips there are two other options: larger fuse or additional fuse. I use 10 and 12A wires and can technically use a 20A fuse which would cover all "additions". To add a second fuse I'd make a Y, and cable-tie two fuse-holders together. It'd be far smaller than any of the commercial offerings. I wouldn't add more battery connection, but keep it to 2 ring terminals per battery terminal -- one for stock wiring and one for my additions. Too many terminals on the battery is just a pain.

One advantage of the fuse block is that if you have a short in your grips you still have your GPS. If I have a problem with any of my additional wiring i need to fix it to use the other devices.

Please excuse me for wandering into 2008 even though I have an '01; I got here accidentally through the "New Posts" link and I have low resistance to electrical topics.

The fuse block certainly is a neat way to power auxiliary components.

I use only "KLRista Engineering" connections (basically, stacking connectors onto battery terminals) to power auxiliary 12-volt socket, Gerbing's heated clothing, and TPI relay harness for "Fat Boy" H4 headlight (Generation 1).

My Generation 1 stator wouldn't handle, gracefully, the Gerbing's jacket liner, gloves, and pants, so--I upgraded the stator (to 280 watts) with Race Tech stator and rectifier/regulator. (I think the Generation 2 stator would have been adequate for the load. Why not upgrade with one? No ignition exciter coil on the Generation 2 stator!)

Still running glass fuses, 'cept for the in-line blades for the TPI headlight relay harness and the Gerbing's power cord.

Gonna get a blade fuse box some day; at least blade fuses to replace the glass ones. Bought a BMW multiple-connection positive battery terminal connector, but--it needs some Mr. Bench Grinder modification before it fits the KLR configuration; might be my next electrical project.

The fuse block you show, lacofdfireman, and the one from Aerostitch linked by Grinnin, look like excellent approaches, as in, "right the first time," to augmenting the KLR's electrics.

I have fit two of the Twisted throttle fuse blocks($120) to customer's bikes and they are a very nice unit. Expensive yes...but they have everything you would want inside it. I do not have one, I'm cheap and made do with a simple blade fuse block for $5 off Fleabay with their own relay. I use 2 with a 6 fuse capability. This is for all of my accessories as noted above. The bike normal glass fuses must be changed over imho as they are too old and delicate not to mention sometimes hard to find now a days. I used simple singular water proof blade fuze holders and riveted them into the left side cover for the side stand safety switch. I also moved the fan fuse to the right in the same general area. The thinking was easily accessable without taking off seat or tank fairing to find these fuses.
When installing any power blocks or accessories I send two #10 wires up to the front, one for power from battery and one for neg. This way you only have two wires to worry about running under the tank that could get pinched and not the rat's nest if you run multiple wires for each accessory.
The power blocks get siliconed into the front fairing where you can easily get to them and change the fuses if one were to blow without having to remove any body work etc. Those fuse blocks are not bad to see if you look for them so they can be hidden well enough to not be obvious.
There is nothing worse than having to dismantle your bike just to change a fuse lets say in the dark or out in the middle of nowhere.
It may be a bit overboard for some....again to each their own.
You do not have to spend huge dollars to get the same thing done if you choose not to, I didn't. Ebay and plenty of time searching is your friend finding these fuse blocks. Plus you now can get them with mini fuses which again save space and are smaller. If you carry a spare fuse of each size, you should be good to go as blade fuses from what I have seen so far never break, blow yes, break not so much like the old glass fuses which can break with vibration or a simple twist.

Hope this helps........

Oh...on the power front.......the higher output stators don't charge well enough in the low RPM range so IF you spend plenty of time stuck in traffic or idling around the trailer below the range where the stator starts to charge the system above the usage you will drain your battery in short order. Yes they do charge better after this range which if memory serves me well, normally doesn't is the 2000 RPM range. This is why I personally haven't swapped one in yet. I'm also not sure it gives you that much more to be able to use all of the desired heated gear which usually is what people swap them for. When you start talking or asking for heated gloves, jackets and grips those numbers climb very close if not over what these stators can supply. Especially gloves and sleeved jackets. The stock stator can supply heated grips on hi and a heated vest on medium, or, grips on low and the vest on high and still deliver plenty to charge the battery above idle.....heated gloves or sleeved heated jackets are out of the question. imho...

But once again to each their own......

Defying unassailable, irrefutable, infallible knowledge and wisdom from divine revelation (not actual experience of observation), my generation 1's Race Tech high-output stator and rectifier/regulator work just fine, powering my TPC Fat Boy H4 headlight bulb, Gerbing's jacket liner/gloves/pants, and whatever I plug into a 12-volt auxiliary socket (e.g., compressor, impact wrench, etc. No, I have NOT yet tested the Margarita blender!).

"Hope this helps!"

I have installed a few for customers who report back on what they are capable of that is why I personally haven't swopped one in yet.

So again I am going by what my customers are telling me......and by what the stated output readings are in the documentation provided on these stator kits. At low RPMs the stock stator supplies better power than any of the higher output stators but after that certain RPM number the higher output stators deliver more power. As per the stats stated on their specific sites etc.
I also have customers stating that they still can't power all of their heated gear on high with the larger stator kit, which pisses them off as we do need them up here at the early and late end of the riding season. I also find it very hard to believe you can either.....but I'm not there and can't observe it.

So, yes NO personal experience, just many customer statements after they have switches over and experienced the difference from stock to higher powered stators. Plus after using the MOSFET regulator....which is a great addition to help keep power up and level.


Hope this helps.......

If anyone wishes to revert to OEM configuration, I have a used stock Generation 1 stator and rectifier/regulator for sale; excellent condition.

How much?