Economical Power - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 13 Old 04-27-2013, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Economical Power

I've Got to have more power!
But I'd like to stay close to 50mpg, so the klx needle or massive horses isn't an option. I wonder about JD/jet changes?

I'm planning a .22c mod around .03"-.035", with the snorkel removed.
I doubt I'll rev more than 5k rpm, unless I find more power there.

I'd also like to change the sound of the exhaust; How would a cheap exhaust tip with the baffle removed affect the .22c mod and performance?
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post #2 of 13 Old 04-27-2013, 02:36 PM
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The easiest way to get more power is to get a different bike.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #3 of 13 Old 04-27-2013, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by klr4evr View Post
The easiest way to get more power is to get a different bike.
+ 1!

For example, the Husqvarna 650 single, out of the box, has about twice the KLR650's horsepower. At comparable new MSRP, as well.

I doubt the power increase (if any) from the 22-cent mod is MEASURABLE (a desirable mod anyway, IMHO).

Same for any aftermarket jet kit; again, IMHO.

Now if you REALLY want more power, perform the PCV mod!!!!!!!!! (Just kidding; just kidding!)

A sound approach; big-bore kit (e.g., 685). Even there, and certainly any beyond, I think you enter the realm of DIMINISHING RETURNS, power-wise, on a KLR650.

All above, my opinion only; I respect all contrary ones!
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post #4 of 13 Old 04-27-2013, 06:32 PM
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I got this....

Better oil man better oil......You know the KLR is a great tool for what it is...I round trip my bike 72 miles a day on the slab and have wintered well you could say at 330 Lbs...It gets the job done. If your the guy that wants to take the challenge and spend a bunch of money mod on, if not you might need a better tool for the job.
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post #5 of 13 Old 04-27-2013, 10:14 PM
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I did the .22 mod, opened fuel screw, removed the snorkle, and did the frugle exhaust mod. Those mods made the bike a LOT more fun to ride without hurting MPG. And I agree, no need to go over 5k.
I recently installed the LEXX exhaust only because I wanted to get rid of the stock stovepipe. That sucker gets hot!
Now I have a reason to go over 5k. The more open exhaust gives the KLR quite abit more topend.

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post #6 of 13 Old 04-27-2013, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcruisin View Post
I've Got to have more power!
But I'd like to stay close to 50mpg, so the klx needle or massive horses isn't an option. I wonder about JD/jet changes?

I'm planning a .22c mod around .03"-.035", with the snorkel removed.
I doubt I'll rev more than 5k rpm, unless I find more power there.

I'd also like to change the sound of the exhaust; How would a cheap exhaust tip with the baffle removed affect the .22c mod and performance?

If you just want to get to 5k rpm faster get a 14 tooth front sprocket.

Changing the gearing will have the most noticeable effect on the powerband, cheap too.

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #7 of 13 Old 04-27-2013, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Savage View Post
I did the .22 mod, opened fuel screw, removed the snorkle, and did the frugle exhaust mod. Those mods made the bike a LOT more fun to ride without hurting MPG. And I agree, no need to go over 5k.
I recently installed the LEXX exhaust only because I wanted to get rid of the stock stovepipe. That sucker gets hot!
Now I have a reason to go over 5k. The more open exhaust gives the KLR quite abit more topend.
I've considered the Lexx. Did you use 2 #4 washers?
What's your mpg around 70 mph?
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post #8 of 13 Old 04-28-2013, 08:04 AM
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There are many almost free mods to do to your KLR as you are learning about to get you some sort of small performance gains. But if you are looking for some sort of seat of the pants dyno bump that you can seriously feel you will need to spend a few hundred dollars to start.

If you are happy with doing the small stuff first as many are, I still say that the small price you pay for the KLX needle kit is well worth it as the needle is tuneable over just adding 2 #4 washers to the stock set up. The KLX needle is a much better shape once you put the two side by side which allows better flow etc.
You know about the snorkle, drilling the slider for better throttle responce to 7/64ths, and adding a UNI air filter for better over all airflow. If you want to open up the srock exhaust you can by drilling around the opening in the small indented area directly next to the outlet pipe. It's called detweetying the can or as some say the Willys Low Buck mod over the hole saw method many seems to choose over a bit longer doing it my way. If you do it my way you ncrease the flow a bit and also keep the last section of baffles inside the exhaust and the spark arrester. It is also quieter than if you use a hole saw.
This is also a semi free deal except you need to add a end cap to the exhaust to keep the hot gasses from deforming or blackening the rear fender. Even an old fence pipe will work that is welded onto the end at a slight angle.
You will find that almost all KLR owners go down the route you are starting upon.
What I have suggested won't destroy the MPG of your bike at all once you have tuned it for your elevation. You still should be able to get the 50MPG which many already enjoy.
Yes riding around the 5000 RPM range is ultimately the best for mileage and longevity of your bike. It just likes it there.
Also if you change your front sprocket to a 16 tooth it will drop those RPMs down by 500 instantly which will allow you to ride a bit quicker at the same RPM range. Yes it will hurt the SNAP off the line if that is a concern to you. You can also go the opposite way and drop the front down to a 14 tooth and get better power feel, but it will slow you at the magical 5000RPM range by the same 500 RPMs I think.

Welcome to the world of farklitis.....it's a very slippery slope to work on......but an enjoyable one if modding is in your blood as it is mine. But it will require substancial fundage to get serious about searching for power. It is inside this engine but hidden well.

If you have any specific questions about any of this just ask, I'll happily answer any of them......hope this helps.....

Willys
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post #9 of 13 Old 04-28-2013, 08:31 AM
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I haven't ridden the bike enough lately on a consistent basis to tell you but I suspect it will have no change from before. My MPG didn't suffer when I did all the mods BUT I didn't change my riding habits either.
The LEXX pipe sounds and feels more CRISP so it makes me want to twist it more. Rapping on the throttle while going through the gears and letting her go higher in the rpms is what will hurt the mpg.
So if you don't change your habits your MPG shouldn't suffer.

Yes I did the 2 washers.

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Tagged KTM250XCF-W - Rocket
Tagged KLX300 - Trail Tractor
'84 XR250R - Retro Ride
RMZ250 - Dirty
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post #10 of 13 Old 04-28-2013, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcruisin View Post
I've Got to have more power!
But I'd like to stay close to 50mpg, so the klx needle or massive horses isn't an option. I wonder about JD/jet changes?

I'm planning a .22c mod around .03"-.035", with the snorkel removed.
I doubt I'll rev more than 5k rpm, unless I find more power there.

I'd also like to change the sound of the exhaust; How would a cheap exhaust tip with the baffle removed affect the .22c mod and performance?
The KLX needle is just an other way of adjusting the fuel mixture, no different than adjusting using shims. The needle being tapered (rather than stepped like the KLR needle is) allows for better fuel control. In combination with a jet change your milage should not change any more than with the 22cent mod. The advantage is adjustability for future changes such as a pipe.
justjeff

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