Gen2, 20k, time to wrench - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 06-22-2013, 04:38 AM Thread Starter
2nd Gear
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: SRNCA
Posts: 186
Gen2, 20k, time to wrench

Yea I can look at the book but often it does not says what really should be done.
I have almost 20k on the clock.
I have changed the oil & filter on a regular schedule, same for the air filter.
Valves were done at the last Etna tech day, 12k/2 yrs ago.
When I have changed the rubber I check the bearings, they seem to have plenty of clean grease.
The swing arm was re-greased at about 16k.
I will be ordering a chain and sprocket set shortly.

I'm thinking its time to re-lube the cables.
Check the brake pads, disks seem fine.
I'm wondering about the fork oil?
What about the steering head grease?
What else am I forgetting?
How much time should I allow for the steering head a and fork oil service considering that
most 1st. time jobs take 4 times as long as they should.
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post #2 of 8 Old 06-22-2013, 08:19 AM
4th Gear
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pefferlaw,Ontario
Posts: 1,636
IMHO, it's time to just check everything that you can just to be safe and sure the bike's tuned to the best it can be so to speak. It seems that you have a good idea of what needs to be done etc already. What about your DOO? What's been done to that, if anything? If you haven't changed her out I will bet the spring has zero tension on it and isn't adjusting the ballancer mechanizm correctly any more.
I'm not a fan of lubing cables myself, I feel that the lube attracts dirt to the cable and as a result clogs up the cable in the long each their own on I have 85,000kms on my cables and they are still working well without lubing them.
If the bike is running great then I would just maybe check the plug for correct gap and cleanliness and check valves once again, brake pads and the caliper movement as in even brake pad wear. If the carb is running fine and your mileages are still good then no need to clean her yet. Have a check of every nut and bolt for loose ones....augh!! Check the brake fluid levels. I would change your fork oils as I bet it is ready for a change if not already done. Take each fork off and empty and flush with varsol or paint thinners then again with auto-tranny fluid to get the thinners out all the time pumping the forks to get the cleaner and auto tranny fluid into all valving etc. Then fill them to the correct level once again. Check over the wiring for possible rub sections..? Check battery for fluids or if gel cell no need... check for cleanliness of battery and starter connections. If you haven't bypassed the safety switches if you feel it's important, do it now....they tend to fail after a while....
The steering head bearings need to be repacked with grease, top and bottom and then torqued to the right torque which is all you can push with the back of your pinky finger when the bike is off the ground, not very scientific but it's a great way to get the correct torque without using the massive torque wrench. Search it out either here or over at the World site, it'll be written by the Patman and it will explain it completely.
Maybe time to go into the carb and do the simple mods to it and the desnorkle of the airbox? KLX needle kit or the 22 cent mod with drilling the slider and set the pilot jet screw to 2 1/4 turns from gently seated.
I'm sure there may be more, but my fingers are starting to
Hope this helps....

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post #3 of 8 Old 06-22-2013, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
2nd Gear
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: SRNCA
Posts: 186
Thanks for the ideas.
Doo is done and regularly checked.
I already had a major short and did not qualify for the factory recall, my dealer
did give me a good deal for the repair.
My Batt. still cranks well but perhaps it is time to just switch it out anyway.
My biggest issue is that I do not have a location that will allow me to leave
my bike in parts overnight.
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post #4 of 8 Old 06-24-2013, 12:02 AM
1st Gear
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 37
I installed progressive springs and new fork oil in the front at about 21K miles. It made a noticable improvement and was worth the cost. The original fork oil level was lower than spec and the oil was very dark in color.

09 KLR
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post #5 of 8 Old 06-24-2013, 12:00 PM
4th Gear
Spec's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Gateway to Death Valley!
Posts: 1,928
My valves were out at 8k and around 20k. They haven't moved in the last 35K miles.

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #6 of 8 Old 06-24-2013, 12:58 PM
4th Gear
Scrapper's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Deming New mexico
Posts: 1,009
i checked my valves at 18k and they still had 3mm on all to go. not too bad i thought. almost 20k and only worn 1 mm.

Never ride faster than your angels can fly
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post #7 of 8 Old 06-24-2013, 02:42 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Benicia, CA
Posts: 6,750
I'm in the same boat. Need time. Arg.

"In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV." R. Pirsig

PPMC #1.
Soon, we ride.

AKA JD Mader or you can call me "Dan" just not early for dinner.

Click my handle for a link to my homepage/blog...which has nothing to do with MCs. Free literature and music! Viva La Revolucion!
2008 KLR 650
RIP DM - Soon, we ride.
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post #8 of 8 Old 06-30-2013, 01:29 AM Thread Starter
2nd Gear
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: SRNCA
Posts: 186
Will I need any special tools to do my stock forks, does anyone have them and willing to loan in the Santa Rosa Area?

Last edited by Stinker; 06-30-2013 at 03:20 PM.
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