Poor Breaking Performance - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 07-09-2013, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Poor Breaking Performance

Have noticed a degradation in rear breaking. It was almost an overnite change from what i would term normal breaking to very poor.
Things I've tried:
1. Checked fluid level in master cylinder-good.
2. Check the brake position according to the service manual.
3. Installed new pads.

The bike has appr 8k miles, and the old pads showed very little wear in comparison to the new.
I would say that it is not 'air in the system' type problem just from my past experiences.

I know the brakes on the klr are mediocre at best. But there is something definitely different with the rear ones.
thanks
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post #2 of 6 Old 07-09-2013, 01:43 PM
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You noticed the change before you changed the pads, right?




"In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV." R. Pirsig

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post #3 of 6 Old 07-09-2013, 01:49 PM
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Quite likely the pistons are stuck in the calipers.

Brake fluid is anhydrous - it absorbs water. Water will accumulate in the lowest point where there is room for it, that being in the caliper. A bit of rust will form, locking up the pistons.

You'd be best off to disassemble the rear caliper and see what's up. If there is minor surface rust and not much pitting you can simply clean things up and reassemble. After reassembly watch for leakage at the caliper from around the piston. If there is none, you're good to go.

If it does leak then there is pitting that can't be sealed by the seal on the piston and you'll need to refresh the caliper.

A rebuild kit can be had for about $30 and a decent used caliper assembly for ~$50.

T

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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 07-09-2013 at 01:51 PM.
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post #4 of 6 Old 07-09-2013, 04:53 PM
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Have you possibly glazed the rotor by dragging the brake? If not Tom's suggestion is sound. Also see if the calliper is traveling along the rails as it should. Then see if the pads are floating as they should also, if not they may need to be filed around their outer edge to allow them to float once again. Usually the one that seats up against the piston. You will see it where they stamped out the metal when they made the pad. Just take off the pinch raised area and it should work as usual. Don't take off too much as they will rattle all the time and drive you insane.

Willys
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post #5 of 6 Old 07-10-2013, 01:34 PM
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Location: NE. Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basement View Post
Have noticed a degradation in rear breaking. It was almost an overnite change from what i would term normal breaking to very poor.
Things I've tried:
1. Checked fluid level in master cylinder-good.
2. Check the brake position according to the service manual.
3. Installed new pads.

The bike has appr 8k miles, and the old pads showed very little wear in comparison to the new.
I would say that it is not 'air in the system' type problem just from my past experiences.

I know the brakes on the klr are mediocre at best. But there is something definitely different with the rear ones.
thanks
I have had that same issue with the rear brakes before. As it turned out it was a problem that started with the air box. Oil leaking from the air box and down the right side of the swing arm and then on to the brake caliper and rotor. After a thorough cleaning and an upgrade to EBC brake pads all has been well.
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post #6 of 6 Old 07-10-2013, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basement View Post

1. Checked fluid level in master cylinder-good...

What color is the fluid nice and clear or brown? Brown indicates the brakes got hot and the fluid isn't effective anymore.

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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