Need more POWER! - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 26 Old 02-03-2014, 12:51 AM Thread Starter
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Need more POWER!

So ive done all the carb mods jetting. Still pig wont run away from its shadow. Debating on gearing it down. But tring to avoid it. If i could only cram a 1000cc super sport moter in it. But doesnt fit. So any ideas to really have drastic effect on power. Open minded. Not afraid to wrench. But tired of getting stomped on by little kids peddling there little legs faster than my moto can go. Lol.
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post #2 of 26 Old 02-03-2014, 03:17 AM
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What are you trying to accomplish? You could put a 14T on the front if you're just trying to lift the front wheel, it won't be as nice on the highway.

I have an '01 with stock air/carb etc. and with a 16T on the front I can still get the front tire to lift if I want to; and I don't even know how to ride worth a damn.

You could also look at the 685 or 705 kit for the engine but it seems like you may have to lower your expectations!
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post #3 of 26 Old 02-03-2014, 11:02 AM
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+ 1!

First of all, it IS a KLR! Even the most ambitious KLR650 hop-up won't approach the out-of-the-box power of, say Husqvarna/BMW/etc. 650 singles.

Not sure what expectations may exist, but . . . increasing displacement, IMHO, offers the best hop-up bang for the buck. A reliable path toward obtaining more power remains: Processing more combustible mixture per unit time. Sad, but true, fact-of-life.

Another approach, seldom discussed in KLRdom, is: Improved combustion efficiency through raising compression ratio. Then, there's the old stand-by, reduce intake and exhaust restriction. Supercharging?

Altered valve timing? A trick cam can shift the horsepower and torque curves about the rpm axis, but a cam alone offers little, if any, net gain.

Regardless, approaching the peak horsepower of a stock Rotax 650 cc engine appears to me a challenge.

If you just want to multiply torque, change your gearing.

Best wishes, whatever hop-up path you chose.

Last edited by Damocles; 02-03-2014 at 11:05 AM.
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post #4 of 26 Old 02-03-2014, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by NoPowerKlr View Post
So ive done all the carb mods jetting. Still pig wont run away from its shadow. Debating on gearing it down. But tring to avoid it. If i could only cram a 1000cc super sport moter in it. But doesnt fit. So any ideas to really have drastic effect on power. Open minded. Not afraid to wrench. But tired of getting stomped on by little kids peddling there little legs faster than my moto can go. Lol.

Bought the wrong bike son.

Cut your losses now, sell it and buy a hyperturbobusa.

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #5 of 26 Old 02-03-2014, 12:52 PM
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+1

I'll say it again. I've learned that the best way to get more power is to simply change the lettering on the tank from KLR to KTM.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #6 of 26 Old 02-03-2014, 04:18 PM
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I agree, if you want a fast bike, the KLR is not for you. It's got plenty of git up for me. That said, my weight fluctuates between about 205 and 230 depending on how much I work out and how big of an idiot I am with food.

I've ridden Tom Schmitz' bike with the 685. Smoother, but not "fast". I rejetted, mods, etc. Losing 15 lbs is about your best bet if you have a need for speed. No joke. Still won't be a rocket, though.

And I assume you're talking top speed? I like how torquey the KLR is and I don't need to go faster than 90 MPH indicated on my bike. I actually see that as kind of an advantage. Keeps me honest.




"In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV." R. Pirsig

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AKA JD Mader or you can call me "Dan" just not early for dinner.

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post #7 of 26 Old 02-03-2014, 04:24 PM
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How fast do you want to spend? You can wring out some more HP out of this archaic engine but it costs MONEY, even if you do your own wrenching...
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post #8 of 26 Old 02-03-2014, 09:29 PM
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How fast do you want to spend? You can wring out some more HP out of this archaic engine but it costs MONEY, even if you do your own wrenching...
That's a good point, and well said. But then you're getting pretty close to making a silk purse out of a sow's ear.

I think the cheapest option is selling it and getting a different bike, honestly. No offense intended.




"In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV." R. Pirsig

PPMC #1.
Soon, we ride.

AKA JD Mader or you can call me "Dan" just not early for dinner.

Click my handle for a link to my homepage/blog...which has nothing to do with MCs. Free literature and music! Viva La Revolucion!
-------------------
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post #9 of 26 Old 02-03-2014, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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Not after a death ride. I bought it brand new in 2011. I only weigh 165. Cant afford the tickets anyways. Everybody always talks about different mods for running leen and such. But never anything about serious gains in raw power. Not after wheelies so much but would be fun if it actually did one.. It was my first on road scoot. Always was a dirt rider. Great bike to adjust to street with. Probably try the 14 tooth front sprocket first and work from there. Make it a bit more snappy the old ways.. I dont do much freeway. 60 max. Mainly back roads or highway. Weekend trips up to the gates of Mt. Rainier or Capitol Forest. So 30 miles maybe.
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post #10 of 26 Old 02-03-2014, 09:52 PM
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If that's the case you might be rather pleased with a 14T front or even changing the rear a little. It will give it a lot more grunt!
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