Chain Adjustment - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 17 Old 03-11-2014, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Chain Adjustment

I recently tightened my chain, now I think it may be to tight. How Do I check?
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post #2 of 17 Old 03-11-2014, 06:47 PM
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My method is if you lift the bottom part of the chain, it should just barely graze the rubber guide thing on the bottom of the swing arm. I believe the manual calls for 2.0-2.6" play with the bike sitting unloaded on its sidestand. You can use a ruler if you want, but you'll find that range is about the same as it grazing the bottom of the swingarm chain guide.

Here's a link that might be of help.

http://germz.org/klr650/chain-tension.html

Chain play is important and worth checking on a regular basis. If it's too little or too much, bad things can happen.



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post #3 of 17 Old 03-11-2014, 07:56 PM
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Page 86 of the Owners Manual is your friend:

http://www.howtomotorcyclerepair.com...ers-Manual.pdf

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post #4 of 17 Old 03-11-2014, 09:46 PM
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Page 111 of my owner's manual says, drive chain slack should be 1.4 - 1.8 inches.
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post #5 of 17 Old 03-11-2014, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigES View Post
Page 111 of my owner's manual says, drive chain slack should be 1.4 - 1.8 inches.
P. 86 of mine (Generation 1) says, "2.0-2.4 in." Clymer (p. 248) says the same.
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post #6 of 17 Old 03-12-2014, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for the tips

This cite is cool, thanks for the help and quick information.
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post #7 of 17 Old 03-14-2014, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigES View Post
Page 111 of my owner's manual says, drive chain slack should be 1.4 - 1.8 inches.
CraigES,
Pay VERY Close attention to which side (Top-Bottom) of the lower chain run those Arrows in the line drawing are Pointing to!

Which is why the rest of us, Just lift the chain UP, Almost touching rubber? OK.
1/4" Away, TOO Tight.
Bending around the rubber, almost touching metal? Time to Adjust.

This procedure works on both Gen 1- Gen 2.
Provided bike has Standard shock links.

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post #8 of 17 Old 03-15-2014, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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I love the Shazam ya'll put in this cite.

Ok, I get it. No, not everything, but chain tension is a go. Now I know this is a DUH question but I'll ask anyway. Is it possible to do most of this on the side stand? I keep having trouble making it SIT!!, lol. It'll roll over fine...
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post #9 of 17 Old 03-15-2014, 01:39 PM
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Monken,
Works on the side stand or work stand, as long as the shock is 'topped-out'.

As in not full touring gear, squashing it down, trying to tip it over off side stand.
In that case, I just push up on the frame, to top-out the shock.

Before tightening the axle nut, put a screw driver between the sprocket and the lower run chain.
Roll the wheel forward, which makes the chain tight, takes the slack out of the adjusters and axle/bearings.
Tighten the axle nut, remove screw driver, re-check chain slack. If 'good', snug the adjuster jam nuts.
Part of the 'trick', is don't over-loosen the axle nut, which allows every thing to go sloppy.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting

Last edited by pdwestman; 03-15-2014 at 01:51 PM. Reason: Screw driver trick, added.
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post #10 of 17 Old 03-15-2014, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Majority of original tools.

I've got the original tools or at least most of them. Can I be fairly assured of torque with them? Or should I invest?
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