It certainly seems that the chain was the problem.
Once I made the swap, chain and sprockets the surging quit.
Now on to switching out my brake lines for S.S. that I have had sitting on my shelf.
I had been planning to do all this crap just prior to trying D2D but due to losing my
job that all went out the window. Working again and need to get this stuff done anyway.
Enough of my current events.
The surging- new chain and sprockets fixed it.
Old sprockets looked in really good condition for 23K, no bent, sharp or otherwise odd looking teeth on either one. I felt like keeping them for spares but in the end I tossed them, I'll just by new and keep them on the shelf. I installed a Primary Drive set from Rocky Mountain ATV with a gold X-ring chain, so far they are working well.
Now I am swapping brake lines, stock for S.S. Galfer.
FYI I'm not sure if I am real happy with the Galfer pads I installed at 21k, at 24K they look about 50% gone. Considering I got 21k out of my OEM I expected more. I hope the S.S. lines work out better.
I just finished the fronts and doing a pressure check right now.
The old fluid was a coffee brown color, new looks nice and clean/clear.
Not done the rear yet, in the AM.
A couple things on the line swap.
The S.S. are much smaller in dia. so they do not fit the existing routing clamps well.
Truth they don't fit at all, I am forced to use zip ties or tape to fatten them up.
I do not like the way the new line fits under the steering head/triple tree, no way will it engage the existing clamp. IMO this is a specific hose for the KLR so Galfer should
supply the required bushings to fit or specify a work around.
Another item that was very handy to have is a 60 ml syringe to aid in bleeding the brake
system. I used one with 3ft. of 3/16 clear pvc tubing ( 4ft would be better) and this made
flushing/bleeding the system an easy task. A few bubbles when I started then none.
I flushed about an oz. of fluid out none was coffee colored all nice and clear, kept the
reservoir topped up, closed the bleeder done. No way for air to enter the system, no air
in the 3ft. of tubing to suck up into the system. IMO a lot less expensive than a brake bleeder kit. If I have made a obvious error please let me know but all seems to work well, the pressure check will tell I hope.
When topping up I tried to limit overfilling the res.
I only filled it to the top of the site glass, that was still to much fluid and it spilled out over the rim when
reinstalled the cap. Per inst. about paint damage I washed everything down. My question; should I open the res. and remove a bit to
allow for heat expansion or just leave it be?
I am going to cut and paste this under a brake title to make it easier to show in a search.
Last edited by Stinker; 07-19-2014 at 11:25 PM.