Neutral Light, Horn, Starter Switch All Dead - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 07-10-2014, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
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Neutral Light, Horn, Starter Switch All Dead

I ran my 2008 for about an hour last night. When I pulled in and parked I noticed I had no horn/neutral light. Today, when I went to start the bike, the Starter Switch also does not work.

I have headlights (hi and low), and the gauge lights work. I'm thinking this could be a fuse, does that sound right?
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post #2 of 9 Old 07-10-2014, 08:08 AM
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Have you had the recall done for the wire chafing problem?

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #3 of 9 Old 07-10-2014, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klr4evr View Post
Have you had the recall done for the wire chafing problem?
I have not -- I bought the bike used two years ago, and I don't know if the previous owner had. I assume there is a diagram of the chafing 'hot spots' online somewhere?
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post #4 of 9 Old 07-11-2014, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommm View Post
I ran my 2008 for about an hour last night. When I pulled in and parked I noticed I had no horn/neutral light. Today, when I went to start the bike, the Starter Switch also does not work.

I have headlights (hi and low), and the gauge lights work. I'm thinking this could be a fuse, does that sound right?
Since the headlight works, the main fuse and the headlight fuses are good. Assume for the moment that the horn outage is unrelated. A bad horn or horn wiring would not stop the bike from starting. Once you have the starting problem fixed, troubleshoot the horn.

With the stand down and no neutral signal the neutral light and the starter will not work. Try putting the stand up and pulling the clutch. This bypasses the neutral switch. If it starts with the stand up and the clutch lever pulled, the problem is in the neutral switch below and in front of the front sprocket or the green wire from it.
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post #5 of 9 Old 07-11-2014, 08:14 PM
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+ 1. Also, wouldn't hurt to try jiggling the clutch lever some; starter bypass (clutch safety) switch may be balky.
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post #6 of 9 Old 07-13-2014, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tips:

I just tried to start it with the side stand up and clutch engaged -- no dice. I followed some of the leads up from the sidestand as well, and that all looks good.

Also no breaks in the wires or disconnected wiring harnesses anywhere else. I spent a good while following all of those the other night.
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post #7 of 9 Old 07-13-2014, 12:47 PM
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Neutral light out and start button not working with everything else working strongly indicates a problem with the neutral switch and its wiring. Your test with the stand up and clutch lever in should have bypassed the neutral switch and allowed the starter circuit to work, but there could be additional problems in those switches. This should be easy to track down.

First do the easiest thing. Make sure the transmission is in neutral and check for the neutral light and for starting and leave it in neutral.

Next, pull the green neutral wire off the neutral switch just in front and below the front sprocket. With the transmision in neutral, check for ground on the switch plug where you pulled the green wire off.

Next, ground the green neutral switch wire and check for the neutral light and for starting.

If none of the above worked, we will test the small starter circuit relay. I have not had to mess with this relay on either of my gen2 KLRs, but I think I have seen it behind the dash. It is about as big as my thumb with a cylindrical end. If you have gone this far, the neutral light back there probably needs replacing anyway. You can get one at an auto parts store.

This relay should make a little click when you push the start switch with the key on. If not, pull the connector off the small starter circuit relay and test on the harness side of the connector for ground on the blue/red wire and then with the key on and the start button pushed check for 12 volts on both of the two yellow/red wires at the connector. If both these tests pass, the relay is bad. You can replace it or disassemble it and most likely fix it.

If none of this solves the problem, we can go farther.
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post #8 of 9 Old 07-13-2014, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by GoMotor View Post
Neutral light out and start button not working with everything else working strongly indicates a problem with the neutral switch and its wiring. Your test with the stand up and clutch lever in should have bypassed the neutral switch and allowed the starter circuit to work, but there could be additional problems in those switches. This should be easy to track down.

First do the easiest thing. Make sure the transmission is in neutral and check for the neutral light and for starting and leave it in neutral.

Next, pull the green neutral wire off the neutral switch just in front and below the front sprocket. With the transmision in neutral, check for ground on the switch plug where you pulled the green wire off.

Next, ground the green neutral switch wire and check for the neutral light and for starting.

If none of the above worked, we will test the small starter circuit relay. I have not had to mess with this relay on either of my gen2 KLRs, but I think I have seen it behind the dash. It is about as big as my thumb with a cylindrical end. If you have gone this far, the neutral light back there probably needs replacing anyway. You can get one at an auto parts store.

This relay should make a little click when you push the start switch with the key on. If not, pull the connector off the small starter circuit relay and test on the harness side of the connector for ground on the blue/red wire and then with the key on and the start button pushed check for 12 volts on both of the two yellow/red wires at the connector. If both these tests pass, the relay is bad. You can replace it or disassemble it and most likely fix it.

If none of this solves the problem, we can go farther.
! That looks to have fixed it. Once I grounded that green wire, the bike would turn over. I'm having trouble now getting that original ground to work. Is there a quick way to bypass this switch altogether? Or should I get a new connector?
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post #9 of 9 Old 07-13-2014, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommm View Post
! That looks to have fixed it. Once I grounded that green wire, the bike would turn over. I'm having trouble now getting that original ground to work. Is there a quick way to bypass this switch altogether? Or should I get a new connector?
That little pin sticking out of the case is not just a ground pin. Notice there is a nut around it. Behind the nut is the Neutral Switch. When in neutral the switch makes ground to the pin and the ground allows the starting system to work and the ignition system to work.

The stand switch bypasses the neutral switch and provides ground to the ignitor to allow it to keep running out of neutral with the stand up.

The clutch safety switch takes the ground from the stand switch and bypasses the neutral switch to the starting system to allow it to START out of neutral WITH the stand up.

If the pin at the neutral switch does not show ground when in neutral, I would remove the neutral switch and fix or replace it.

Since it didn't start stand up and clutch in, one or both of those switches is bad. If it keeps running with the stand up and no ground on the green wire and dies when the stand goes down, the stand switch is good and you should repair or replace the clutch switch. If it won't keep running stand up and no ground on the green wire, repair or replace the stand switch.

Switch is #13151 here http://www.kawasakipartsnation.com/o...m-shift-fork-s

Last edited by GoMotor; 07-13-2014 at 07:28 PM.
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