Front tire wear pattern?? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 07-15-2014, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Front tire wear pattern??

Any ideas on what is causing this wear pattern on my Front tire?
Duro HF903 90/90-21 ( Just over 2,000 miles and balance looks good.)
Air pressure maintained at 21psi
My rear ( Duro HF 904 ) has over 4,000 miles, and shows even wear. Still lots of depth.
I can't detect any movement in front head bearings, and side-to-side movement is smooth.
No damage to rim.




The ramp switches sides on every other block, and only in center blocks. Sides are wearing normally.

I'm going to take it in today for dealer inspection, but though I'd check here for ideas.

Ageing Gracefully



2017 Yamaha XT250
1990 Honda NX250 (Green/White)
2011 Kawasaki KLR 650 (Orange & White )

My KLR Page..http://www.powers31.info/2011_KLR650.htm

Mod's to KLR:
Power socket, L.E.D. Battery Indicator, Camera bag holder
Custom Saddlebag frames .
Louder horns, Firstgear Onyx tail bag.
Custom Aluminum Skid Plate.
Cut down seat with Custom pad.
Go Pro Camera mount.
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post #2 of 12 Old 07-15-2014, 10:54 AM
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Looks like cupping. More info here:

http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/info...s-from-cupping

Common problem. Might try turning the tire around on the rim if you want to get some more life out of it.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #3 of 12 Old 07-17-2014, 09:02 PM
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Cupping seems more apparent on knobbies. Heavy braking makes it worse.

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post #4 of 12 Old 07-17-2014, 09:29 PM
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Larry31,
THE Owner Manual is INCORRECT!!!!!

Never run LESS than 28 PSI in the Front tire on Pavement!!!!

When you or the pavement 'pushes' on the Center of the Front tire, the Surrounding tread blocks 'FLEX' towards the 'Point' of contact!

Your front tire is literally 'chewing' at the pavement.

Prove it to yourself, with an 'un-mounted' dirt knobby!
Push on the Center Knob, watch the surrounding Knobs 'Flex' towards the point of contact.

I ALWAYS run, or set-up a dirt bike / dual-sport bike, with 2 MORE PSI in the SKINNY Front tire than the 'fatter' Rear tire, up to MAX PSI. (depending on rider weight and Load.)

The front tires, are always, 'driven'. Not drive and driven as a rear tire.
Cupping of the Front Tire is Absolutely 'Normal', some tires are worse than others.

Reduce the 'cupping' by increasing the air pressure.
Most of the bike weight and rider/load weight is transferred to the FRONT tire during 'proper' braking, yes?
The Front tire NEEDS more air than the rear!!!!!!!!!!!!

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #5 of 12 Old 07-18-2014, 03:37 AM Thread Starter
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Tires

Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Larry31,
THE Owner Manual is INCORRECT!!!!!

Never run LESS than 28 PSI in the Front tire on Pavement!!!!

When you or the pavement 'pushes' on the Center of the Front tire, the Surrounding tread blocks 'FLEX' towards the 'Point' of contact!

Your front tire is literally 'chewing' at the pavement.

Prove it to yourself, with an 'un-mounted' dirt knobby!
Push on the Center Knob, watch the surrounding Knobs 'Flex' towards the point of contact.

I ALWAYS run, or set-up a dirt bike / dual-sport bike, with 2 MORE PSI in the SKINNY Front tire than the 'fatter' Rear tire, up to MAX PSI. (depending on rider weight and Load.)

The front tires, are always, 'driven'. Not drive and driven as a rear tire.
Cupping of the Front Tire is Absolutely 'Normal', some tires are worse than others.

Reduce the 'cupping' by increasing the air pressure.
Most of the bike weight and rider/load weight is transferred to the FRONT tire during 'proper' braking, yes?
The Front tire NEEDS more air than the rear!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks! That's what my local Kawasaki Service Mgr. said as well.
I had increased my pressure to 25. I'll try 28 as you suggested. Not sure how it will perform on gravel. I don't take it into real rough stuff. I have my little NX250 for that, and as I age, I don't heal as fast.

I'm going to try a different tread pattern on my next tire. Maybe a Kenda K270?

Ageing Gracefully



2017 Yamaha XT250
1990 Honda NX250 (Green/White)
2011 Kawasaki KLR 650 (Orange & White )

My KLR Page..http://www.powers31.info/2011_KLR650.htm

Mod's to KLR:
Power socket, L.E.D. Battery Indicator, Camera bag holder
Custom Saddlebag frames .
Louder horns, Firstgear Onyx tail bag.
Custom Aluminum Skid Plate.
Cut down seat with Custom pad.
Go Pro Camera mount.
Doo-Hicky
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post #6 of 12 Old 07-18-2014, 09:14 AM
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You can always air-down your tire when you hit gravel. I think I run 32 in my front on the pavement.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #7 of 12 Old 07-18-2014, 12:56 PM
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Excellent info westman! Thanks

larry I would stay away from the 270 front. Its sketchy. The shinko 244 and 705 are good.

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post #8 of 12 Old 07-18-2014, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savage View Post
Excellent info westman! Thanks

larry I would stay away from the 270 front. Its sketchy. The shinko 244 and 705 are good.
My experience is the opposite. I have gone through about 10 sets of Kenda k270 front and rear with good luck. Decided to try a cheaper Shinko 244 on the rear. It chunked off 9 center knobs between Houston and Memphis (600 miles) on the highway. They replaced it with another Shinko 244 and that one chunked 4 center knobbies in the first 400 miles getting home and I was very careful with pressure and speed on that one.
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post #9 of 12 Old 07-19-2014, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Airing down

Quote:
Originally Posted by klr4evr View Post
You can always air-down your tire when you hit gravel. I think I run 32 in my front on the pavement.
I know it's done frequently, but in my kind of driving, I'd rather not mess around with constant changing air.

Typically I ride 40 - 50 miles, then explore alternating pavement and gravel with some mild technical stuff mixed in. Then another 40 - 50 miles on paved highway back home. If I rode only once highway, then off road, it might be worth it. I'm always mixing my road surfaces during a days ride.

Ageing Gracefully



2017 Yamaha XT250
1990 Honda NX250 (Green/White)
2011 Kawasaki KLR 650 (Orange & White )

My KLR Page..http://www.powers31.info/2011_KLR650.htm

Mod's to KLR:
Power socket, L.E.D. Battery Indicator, Camera bag holder
Custom Saddlebag frames .
Louder horns, Firstgear Onyx tail bag.
Custom Aluminum Skid Plate.
Cut down seat with Custom pad.
Go Pro Camera mount.
Doo-Hicky
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post #10 of 12 Old 07-19-2014, 06:02 PM
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Larry31,
I'm about 165lbs in full gear and tool belt. I ride a 1987 -A1, 'light bike', haha.
White does 'look' light!

28-30 psi in the front and 26-28 psi in the rear has served me well on all roads. I, Air up for luggage or if my wife rides. Up to MAX on both ends.

I Do Not air down, because I hate to air-up!
I've led or chased 'dirtier' bikes, all over Wyoming.
I've led or chased 'streetier' bikes all over Wyoming.
I've ridden the 'high mountain dirt' passes in Colorado, and then rode home.

Up to 16,000 miles on a front Avon Gripster. 8200-11,000 miles on a rear Gripster. Yes, I will ride the rear, til bald in the center.

Cut through the center of your old tire, when you take it OFF.
See how 'little or much' safety margin is BUILT IN!
Some have more than others! Not all tires are created Equal!

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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