Stripped Drain Plug :/ - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 30 Old 08-02-2014, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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Stripped Drain Plug :/

Well, I've gone and stripped the drain plug on my '13. I'm not too sure where I went wrong, but i think the 22 ft. Lbs as recommended by MOM was a bit too much.

Either that, or the kindly dealer stripped it out when they put it together.

I'm going to try an oversezed M12 and hope it re-threads the plug....really don't want to mess with re-tapping (dealer or done myself).

Is the Kawasaki metal that soft?
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post #2 of 30 Old 08-02-2014, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spsteevoe View Post
Well, I've gone and stripped the drain plug on my '13. I'm not too sure where I went wrong, but i think the 22 ft. Lbs as recommended by MOM was a bit too much.

Either that, or the kindly dealer stripped it out when they put it together.

I'm going to try an oversezed M12 and hope it re-threads the plug....really don't want to mess with re-tapping (dealer or done myself).

Is the Kawasaki metal that soft?
It strips easy, yeah. Don't ask how I know.




"In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV." R. Pirsig

PPMC #1.
Soon, we ride.

AKA JD Mader or you can call me "Dan" just not early for dinner.

Click my handle for a link to my homepage/blog...which has nothing to do with MCs. Free literature and music! Viva La Revolucion!
-------------------
2008 KLR 650
RIP DM - Soon, we ride.
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post #3 of 30 Old 08-02-2014, 07:52 PM
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oh man, that sucks.

yes, aluminum is very soft and easily stripped. you' re gonna have to do a closer inspection and see if you've cracked the case, in which case you may need some welding or jb weld at minimum.

for others and for the future, use an aluminum crush washer and torque to 17# lbs.

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post #4 of 30 Old 08-02-2014, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by a4twenty View Post
oh man, that sucks.

yes, aluminum is very soft and easily stripped. you' re gonna have to do a closer inspection and see if you've cracked the case, in which case you may need some welding or jb weld at minimum.

for others and for the future, use an aluminum crush washer and torque to 17# lbs.
Case is fine, and I used crush washers too. Didn't realize the manuals' torque specs were off by that much!
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post #5 of 30 Old 08-02-2014, 09:47 PM
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I'm not sure about the details, but I believe the engine oil drain bolt torque is different for the newer models. The Owner's Manual for my 2009 calls for 21 ft/lbs. I recall somebody saying the Gen1 bolt torque is under 20 pounds, maybe something like 17?

Even 21 pounds always seemed excessive to me.

Then again, as you noted, this could be the case:



People gripe about the doohickey all the time, but I've seen so many posts about stripped/externally-damaged drain plugs that my biggest beef with the KLR's engine is that the drain plug isn't on the side of the case where it should be and is too easily damaged by either an external strike or maybe a bit too much torque.

It seems to be a more prevalent Achilles' Heel than the doohickey if you ask me.

Hope you're able to get the problem rectified.



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post #6 of 30 Old 08-02-2014, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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Crazy thing is, i bought the damn torque wrench specifically to make sure i didnt jack anything up on the bike. I would've been fine had I tightened it to the right 'feel' instead.
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post #7 of 30 Old 08-02-2014, 09:58 PM
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This was discussed in a recent torque wrench thread where it was noted cheap or expensive, you really don't know if a torque wrench is accurate unless you get it calibrated.

I suppose my above meme could apply to either the worker in Thailand who initially installed your oil drain plug or the workers wherever that made and shipped your torque wrench.

Not being a smartass, but something to think about: Was it the kind of torque wrench with the gradations up the barrel where you turn the handle until you reach them and did you have to convert? With the wrench I use for my drain plug, I have to convert inch/lbs to ft/lbs or maybe it's the other way around. I always do my math at least 3 times before I set the wrench to specs. At least to me, some of those torque wrenches can be hard enough to figure out how to set without having to convert inches to pounds. Some of them are weird where you would think one turn of the handle would equal a sensible increase pounds/inches but instead of 10 for every twist of the handle, it's like 12 or 14 or something that doesn't make any sense.

Just sayin', if I had a ft.lb torque wrench that started out with 20 ft/lbs on the low end and went up to 150, I'd rather convert/use an inch-pound torque wrench where that 20 ft/lbs would be more in the mid-range of the wrench's adjustment. I have no idea if this is the case with the wrench you used; just throwin' my philosophy out there for what it's worth.....




Last edited by planalp; 08-02-2014 at 10:27 PM.
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post #8 of 30 Old 08-02-2014, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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It is one of those $40 specials with the twist-stop in ft/lb increments, i believe the range is 10-120. I haven't confirmed calibration, but i did a quick check on a bolt with a higher torque value to get a feel of what 20 ft/lbs was like.
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post #9 of 30 Old 08-03-2014, 02:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spsteevoe View Post
Crazy thing is, i bought the damn torque wrench specifically to make sure i didnt jack anything up on the bike. I would've been fine had I tightened it to the right 'feel' instead.
Brother, you're singing my song.




"In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV." R. Pirsig

PPMC #1.
Soon, we ride.

AKA JD Mader or you can call me "Dan" just not early for dinner.

Click my handle for a link to my homepage/blog...which has nothing to do with MCs. Free literature and music! Viva La Revolucion!
-------------------
2008 KLR 650
RIP DM - Soon, we ride.
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post #10 of 30 Old 08-03-2014, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by spsteevoe View Post
I'm going to try an oversezed M12 and hope it re-threads the plug....really don't want to mess with re-tapping (dealer or done myself).
You'll be fine!

Analyzing the drain plug torque, after-the-fact . . . the drain plug does NOT contain extreme mechanical stress loads; its only purpose is to SEAL. Thus, great torque isn't necessary, nor as we have seen, even desirable.

Thus, a calibrated hand-snugging with an ignorant, rather than a torque, wrench, oughta git 'er done. Worst case (too loose), drip a little oil. NEVER heard of a negligently-tightened oil drain plug loosening to the point of causing immediate oil starvation, although in the back of our minds, carefully hidden, must lurk that fear . . . thus, ironically, trying to PREVENT the disaster, we CAUSE one (strip oil drain plug threads from over-zealous application of torque).

Been there, done that. Oversize oil drain plug to the rescue.

Kinda hard to find an oversize in the corresponding pitch (1.5), but an oversize M12 plug even with the WRONG pitch (e.g., 1.25) might work.
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