Valve Check - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 43 Old 12-29-2014, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
D C
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Valve Check

Well thanks to you all I did my valves. What a difference! Starts much easier now. I do have a few questions. How do you torque a couple of those bolts accurately? What torque wrench fits under the frame? I have Craftsman torque wrenches and the left intake cam cap bolt was a bugger as was the left valve cover bolt, the frame is in the way. Just a thought, can one use a crows foot on a torque wrench? Thanks.
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post #2 of 43 Old 12-30-2014, 10:29 AM
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D C,
If one does use a crows foot or better yet a pipe fitting wrench (5 sided) on a torque wrench, the crows foot is best used 'side-ways' 90 degrees to the torque wrench. This allows to use normal torque number. If the crows foot or other adapters are used facing forward Any Amount you must use a mathematical formula to Compensate for the Extra Leverage Gained. Do we see the Increased possibility of Stripped Threads??

My Snap-On, Micrometer 1/4" drive, 40-200 in.lb. torque wrench has only an 11mm thick, ratchet head. Works well in tight confines.

There have been times, for all of us, that we need to torque fasteners which are in-accessible with our torque wrenches, and have to use 'something else' on one or two in-accessible fasteners. Important to maintain 'pattern' of torqueing on some things. And you 'pre-test' your strength with the 'other' wrench on fasteners which were properly torqued, even in sequential patterns.

pdwestman
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post #3 of 43 Old 12-30-2014, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply, I plan on checking out that torque wrench. Steel bolts and aluminum threads make me nervous!
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post #4 of 43 Old 09-20-2015, 09:19 PM
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The valve check info that everyone has been waiting for:

I decided to check and shim the valves today at 5500 miles on my 2015 KLR650 (did the doo with an Eagle Mike torsion spring and doo at 2100 miles).

I ride my bike in a moderate manner, use Rotella 14w40 conventional oil, Kawasaki oil filter, keep the air filter clean, etc.

So, the left exhaust was at .005 (2.55 OEM shim) and measured at .009 with a 2.45 shim.
The right exhaust was at .006 (2.55 OEM shim) and measured at .009 with a 2.45 shim.

The left intake was .006 (2.65 OEM shim) and measured at .008 with a 2.60 shim.
The right intake was .005 (2.70 OEM shim) and measured at .007 with a 2.65 shim.

I am good for a while and will re-check them in 12,000 miles or so.

I also decided to remove all of the bodywork and the front fairing to tie off and insulate any errant wiring that could rub/short out. I found the usual spots on 2nd Gen bikes and insulated all possible rub spots (there are several potential rub points where the wires cross the fairing support bracket).
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post #5 of 43 Old 09-22-2015, 12:35 PM
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I need to check mine someday...

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post #6 of 43 Old 09-24-2015, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D C View Post
Well thanks to you all I did my valves. What a difference! Starts much easier now. I do have a few questions. How do you torque a couple of those bolts accurately? What torque wrench fits under the frame? I have Craftsman torque wrenches and the left intake cam cap bolt was a bugger as was the left valve cover bolt, the frame is in the way. Just a thought, can one use a crows foot on a torque wrench? Thanks.
I wondered the same darn thing when I did mine - when it was time for reassembly, there were at least two bolts that there was no way to get a torque wrench on. I tightened them with a regular wrench and guessed - the alternative was to abandon the bike?? I rationalized my choice by thinking: "Well, there are a couple of hundred thousand KLR owners who faced this same problem and had to button up their bikes, and I don't recall any horror stories about those cap bolts falling out from inadequate torque." So now I wait and see...

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post #7 of 43 Old 09-25-2015, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Medicineball View Post
I wondered the same darn thing when I did mine - when it was time for reassembly, there were at least two bolts that there was no way to get a torque wrench on. I tightened them with a regular wrench and guessed - the alternative was to abandon the bike?? I rationalized my choice by thinking: "Well, there are a couple of hundred thousand KLR owners who faced this same problem and had to button up their bikes, and I don't recall any horror stories about those cap bolts falling out from inadequate torque." So now I wait and see...
I used a Harbor Freight 1/4" torque wrench with a 10mm 1/4" drive Craftsman socket to tighten the cam cap bolts and had enough clearance. They were torqued to 103 inch pounds. I never use a torque wrench on the four cam cover bolts and just gently (gently, I say) snug them down with a box end wrench and have never had one leak, nor stripped one.
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post #8 of 43 Old 11-09-2015, 08:30 PM
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OK I've finally decided its time for me to check the shims.
Excellent info above whisperquiet.
What size shims does the KLR use? For instance, my KLX uses 7.48 shims.
Thanks!

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post #9 of 43 Old 11-09-2015, 09:19 PM
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The KLR650 uses 29mm shims.....they are about the size of a quarter with normal thickness between 2.30 and 2.75. I just shimmed my 2015 and the original shims were 2.55 to 2.70 from the factory.
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post #10 of 43 Old 11-10-2015, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whisperquiet View Post
The valve check info that everyone has been waiting for:

I decided to check and shim the valves today at 5500 miles on my 2015 KLR650 (did the doo with an Eagle Mike torsion spring and doo at 2100 miles).

I ride my bike in a moderate manner, use Rotella 14w40 conventional oil, Kawasaki oil filter, keep the air filter clean, etc.

So, the left exhaust was at .005 (2.55 OEM shim) and measured at .009 with a 2.45 shim.
The right exhaust was at .006 (2.55 OEM shim) and measured at .009 with a 2.45 shim.

The left intake was .006 (2.65 OEM shim) and measured at .008 with a 2.60 shim.
The right intake was .005 (2.70 OEM shim) and measured at .007 with a 2.65 shim.

I am good for a while and will re-check them in 12,000 miles or so.

I also decided to remove all of the bodywork and the front fairing to tie off and insulate any errant wiring that could rub/short out. I found the usual spots on 2nd Gen bikes and insulated all possible rub spots (there are several potential rub points where the wires cross the fairing support bracket).
The interval on clearances is 15K miles in the owners manual. What made you want to dig in there at 5.5K? Is there something about the KLR in general that calls for early clearance checks?

You apparently thought the clearances were tight. What are the tolerance ranges for the exhaust and intake?

I'm currently waiting on delivery of a 2016 KLR650 and don't have a service manual yet either. So, thanks in advance!
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