This is for Generation 2 (2008, 2009, etc..) discussion. - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 80 Old 05-27-2008, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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Arrow This is for Generation 2 (2008, 2009, etc..) discussion.

Sorry if you've noticed a bunch of moved topics.. They've just been moved to the Wrenching and Mod section for all other KLRs.. This one's for 2008 and newer machines.
Please keep the 2007 and earlier wrenching and mod questions in the other section...
Many of the 2008 machine owners asked for a 08 or newwer section to keep the older models seperate from the new model.. Just doing as wished.

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 03-15-2012 at 11:32 AM.
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post #2 of 80 Old 09-19-2008, 03:31 PM
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At constant rpm (3000-4000) I notice a slight surge in power. It is very slight and rythmic. I roll on the throttle and it powers thru it. I suspect either air flow restriction or fuel supply. I burn only 91 octane and have 3k on the air filter (not too dusty). Any ideas?
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post #3 of 80 Old 09-19-2008, 03:53 PM
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Remove the idle mixture screw plug that the factory puts over the screw. Soft seat the needle and then turn out 2 to 2 1/2 turns. This pretty much will cure your surging issues.

This link will help step you thru it. Very simple mod but effective:
http://www.klr650.marknet.us/Carb_AirMix.pdf

Another effective mod is to place two #4 stainless steel washers under the Main Jet Needle. This allows a bit more fuel flow and gives a much crisper throttle response. If you don't like it, you simply remove the washers. Since you will be working on the carb, now would be a good time to do it. This is known as the .22 cent smile maker mod.

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Previous ride was a 2007 KLR Black/Silver, I miss it..
Looking to get back into KLR's sometime soon.

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Last edited by DXKLR; 09-19-2008 at 03:56 PM.
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post #4 of 80 Old 09-03-2009, 07:06 AM
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Excactly what DX said.
The EPA tests at idle engine speed and "cruising" rpms. (3,000)
This is where the factory lean spots are.
Jetting is fine stock, and the idle screw and stacking the
needle .030" to .050" takes care of the midrange.
Many owners use this opportunity to swiss-cheese the
airbox to capitalize on the better fuel delivery.


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post #5 of 80 Old 09-28-2009, 09:29 PM
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5 weeks

bought a 2009 red klr. wow , bought it to keep my v strom dl 1000 company , but can,t keep off it , 2,600 miles and still smiling ! the good stuff now the bad , seat must go ! changed the windshield to a zero gravity, ok , but could be taller. I, don,t ride it that hard , how long before the doohicky is an issue ?
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post #6 of 80 Old 09-29-2009, 08:56 AM
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Draft, The "new"doo isn't supposed to have issues, but isn't perfected yet
from what I've gathered so far. I'm leaving mine as-is since mine's an '09 bought
this past April. It'll get upgraded before 20,000 miles but for a few seasons no
worries. There's been posts on this site about them mainly working fine but have weak
tension on the stock spring. No one has suffered a catastrophic failure as of yet.

BTW, I got black because black is the fastest color. LOLOLOL

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post #7 of 80 Old 10-22-2009, 08:26 AM
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2009 KLR won't idle

I have 3600 miles on my 09. I changed oil at 600, and again at 3,200 and went to AmSoil. I did the 22 cent mod around 2,000 miles, WOW huge improvement. I just put on a K&N filter this past weekend at around 3,500. Rode to work on Wednesday and had to switch to reserve on the way there. Had a meeting and went back to the office on reserve (5 miles). I filled up on the way home, about 1.5 miles from the office. When I tried to start it back up at the gas station, it barely started. Finally did, but backfired and died several times before I finally got it running. Died several times on the way home (27 miles) when I had to stop at a stop light. Seems like it is only doing it at idle, or very low RPM. Anyone have any ideas what may have happened?
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post #8 of 80 Old 10-22-2009, 10:52 AM
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Sure sounds like bad gas.

Drain the gas from the tank and carb and put new gas in and see if it gets better.

Some Seafoam might help if a bunch of crappage got into the carb.

Also make sure the vacuum operated petcock is funtioning. Unlikely that it would fail so early and coincidentally with a fill-up, but one never knows.

You should also check the air filter and make sure it's still clean. BTW, K&N filters don't have the best reputation with KLRs. Most find that the stock filter flows better.

Tom

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 10-22-2009 at 10:58 AM.
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post #9 of 80 Old 10-22-2009, 12:12 PM
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Tom is right. You want to isolate the problem though, so you have two choices really. Put the stock filter back in (I've never heard a good word said about the K&N filters) and see if you're good. Or, drain the gas, refill and see if it works, then you know your filter is OK. I would try swapping the filter first. Easy and fast. Point being, don't do both at once or you won't know what the issue was. Unless you do both, put the K&N back in and have the same problem, but then you'll have drained the tank for nothing.

Just a random thought, if I understand what you're experiencing correctly, it could be that the gas cap isn't venting right. Wouldn't make sense, but that is REAL easy to check. Try running with the gas cap open. I doubt that's it, but it's an easy first step.




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Last edited by Lockjaw; 10-22-2009 at 12:17 PM.
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post #10 of 80 Old 10-22-2009, 08:44 PM
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I think I will try the gas cap first. I don't think bad gas would have had a chance to get to the carb, the bike wouldn't start immediately after the fill up. The bike ran fine for 50 miles or so with the K&N before this started. Sounds like I may return the K&N though. I have always liked K&N filters, and run them in everything. I wasn't real impressed with this one though when I put it on.

Thanks for the help, I will let you know what I find out.

Any chance it could be the DOO not letting it idle right?
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