Another question about the doohickey - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 13 Old 04-18-2015, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 66
Another question about the doohickey

So I did the search and found some info & threads about the adjuster ya'll call the doohickey, but one thing I'm unclear on. I read that it was upgraded and improved in 2008, but that there could be some play in where it fits.

It is recommended to still replace it on the newer bikes? and if so, how hard of a job is it for someone who is not really a "mechanic"? Thanks.
K650 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 13 Old 04-19-2015, 07:51 AM
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 28
Great question!

There has been many answers and posts about this...
There is also loads of video clips and instructional videos available...

However, I personally wouldn't try it if I was not really a mechanic as you stated.

Do some research, decide if it is really needed and good luck!
pensioner35 is offline  
post #3 of 13 Old 04-19-2015, 07:51 AM
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 28
Any other opinions anyone ?



pensioner35 is offline  
 
post #4 of 13 Old 04-19-2015, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 66
I have a mechanic friend who will probably help me. I really at this point need to determine if it is favorable to replace it on the newer models (2009).
K650 is offline  
post #5 of 13 Old 04-19-2015, 10:45 AM
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 28
I suppose it is better to be safe than sorry. And most people will tell you to replace them, even on the "newer" 2009 model...
Some of the old ones the lever broke and I believe some of the new ones the little spring is no good. And then some just keeps going and going!

However, I have had 4 KLR's - the old A from 1989, the B (Tengai) from 1991, the C (Europe) from 2000 and even an E from 2011 and I personally have never replaced the doohickey! Maybe I have been just lucky the last 20 years on all 4 of my bikes?

So, it is really up to you. I personally would leave it alone and some would say definitely have it done. Suppose for your peace of mind just replace it.

Hope this helps? Do let us know what you decide...
pensioner35 is offline  
post #6 of 13 Old 04-19-2015, 01:38 PM
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Colorado mountains
Posts: 76
I just replaced mine (08) since I'm going over the whole bike anyway, and for peace of mind.In retrospect, I probably could have just replaced the (loose) spring, and left the rest alone, but I'd ordered the EM torsion spring kit with tools, so I used it.
I am mechanically adept, but there are enough instructions and videos on the webz that you should be able to take your time and get it done OK with the help of a manual and the right tools. Oh, and some common sense. Probably the hardest part for someone not used to it is removing and replacing the rotor. There are some washers and such to pay attention to, but I used Eagle Mike's instructions, and didn't have any trouble.
Liftrat is offline  
post #7 of 13 Old 04-19-2015, 02:26 PM
Threadjacker
 
Lockjaw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Benicia, CA
Posts: 6,750
Quote:
Originally Posted by Liftrat View Post
I just replaced mine (08) since I'm going over the whole bike anyway, and for peace of mind.In retrospect, I probably could have just replaced the (loose) spring, and left the rest alone, but I'd ordered the EM torsion spring kit with tools, so I used it.
I am mechanically adept, but there are enough instructions and videos on the webz that you should be able to take your time and get it done OK with the help of a manual and the right tools. Oh, and some common sense. Probably the hardest part for someone not used to it is removing and replacing the rotor. There are some washers and such to pay attention to, but I used Eagle Mike's instructions, and didn't have any trouble.
Good answer. For the non-mechanically inclined, it is intimidating. Not hard. If you have a friend to be your second brain, you'll be fine. Go slow, stay organized, don't get frustrated. Find a tech day if you can.

I replaced the doo on my 08, but in hindsight, I might have just done the spring. Although, EM makes nice stuff. Who knows. For me it comes down to how much money you have to play with. When I got my bike, I was getting paid well and bought the doo. Now, I'd just do the spring.




"In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV." R. Pirsig

PPMC #1.
Soon, we ride.

AKA JD Mader or you can call me "Dan" just not early for dinner.

Click my handle for a link to my homepage/blog...which has nothing to do with MCs. Free literature and music! Viva La Revolucion!
-------------------
2008 KLR 650
RIP DM - Soon, we ride.
Lockjaw is offline  
post #8 of 13 Old 04-19-2015, 06:57 PM
1st Gear
 
PaulieeT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 61
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hsYTaI1vL08

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CbTzQ1PJwKI&list=PL7MCN7pfZcGQT4ZwW2m3OC52 dF2NciBq9

2013 KLR

16 Tooth sprocket, Doo done, DirtRacks Crash Bars, Bestem 929 top case, Kawasaki tall winscreen, Acerbis Supermoto front fender, LED dash lights and license plate light

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 04-19-2015 at 07:04 PM. Reason: hmmmm, damn thing won't embed
PaulieeT is offline  
post #9 of 13 Old 04-19-2015, 10:42 PM
4th Gear
 
GoMotor's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,247
Well, here's my opinion and I think it is correct.

On the gen2 KLRs 2008 and newer the new factory doo is fine. I doesn't break like the old ones did. The spring is also fine. It doesn't break like the old ones did. The spring like all springs does have a certain range of stretch and once it has reached the limit of its range it can no longer adjust the doo. I think that range is between 5 and 10 thousand miles and after that a shorter spring is needed. I don't know where to get a shorter spring because I use the torsion spring which has a really long range. I have one with 100K miles on the torsion spring.

So, I recommend for convenience to to get a doo with a torsion spring so you don't have to go back in to change springs later.

As far as difficulty is concerned, it is not too difficult to unscrew bolts and keep track of them and screw them back in the same holes they came out of. There are some good instructions available telling you about things like making sure you keep track of all the washers and put them back in the right places. The only semi-difficult thing is getting the flywheel/rotor back on the crankshaft with the woodruff key in the grove on the crankshaft. That is not too hard if you peen/dent the side of the woodruff key so it sticks in the groove.

For special tools you will need a rotor holding tool. I made mine, but it cost almost as much as a good one from Eagle Mike. You will also need a torque wrench for 150 foot-pounds and one for inch-pounds. You can usually barrow/rent these from your local auto parts store.

That is it.
GoMotor is offline  
post #10 of 13 Old 04-20-2015, 03:57 AM
5th Gear
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,323
Most reasonable comments on this thread, IMHO!

Opinions on the doohickey (and the overall scheme of balancer chain slack adjustment) often take on the character of mandatory religious belief, to some! As in, "Salvation DEPENDS upon doohickey replacement absolutely, regardless of generation!" Or, more skeptical, perhaps agnostic, views of aftermarket upgrade.

This thread contains reasonable perceptions and alternatives available for each individual to consider for his own choice; refreshing!

While I know of no Generation 2 doohickey (idler shaft lever) component failures, strong evidence suggests Generation 1 parts sometimes grenaded, and with catastrophic collateral damage.

Eagle Mike (and others) deserve great credit for developing an alternative substantially reducing the probability of this heartbreak.

Just wondering: No easy/reliable way exists to answer the question, but . . . of all the KLR650s manufactured over 25 years of production, and in service worldwide . . . what percentage have aftermarket doohickeys installed?

FULL DISCLOSURE: I have Eagle Mike doohickey and torsion spring installed on my Generation 1.
Damocles is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Doohickey question Pikester KLR & Other Motorcycle Related Discussion 4 11-26-2013 07:36 PM
Doohickey Question Jack01 KLR & Other Motorcycle Related Discussion 1 07-03-2013 09:00 AM
Doohickey or not to doohickey that is my question Bowfinger12000 1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods 19 04-22-2013 04:35 PM
Doohickey question. Maico88 KLR & Other Motorcycle Related Discussion 10 11-13-2012 10:10 AM
DOOHICKEY Question???? ucatch33 1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods 10 06-21-2008 07:12 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome