Manual Balancer Chain Mod. - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 29 Old 04-29-2015, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 96
Manual Balancer Chain Mod.

Has anyone done this, eliminate the doohickey and the spring? I heard someone has done this type of mod before, sounds like a great idea, never having to worry about broken parts, tight or loose springs!

I know by removing the outer cover you can do a manual adjustment by pushing the lever to the left and tighten the bolt install the cover and your done.

It would be nice to do it without removing the cover......
Drifter. is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 29 Old 04-29-2015, 08:14 PM
5th Gear
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,228
Don't see why this scheme wouldn't work; essentially replacing operative spring tension with hand-applied force (torqueing the idler pulley lever).

The tension spring and doohickey only perform work when the tension bolt is loosened and the spring tension reduces balancer chain slack. At all other times, balancer chain tension is held by the tension bolt.

During adjustment, chain-tightening torque could be applied either by a spring, or by a hand, seems to me, with effectively identical results.

Yet, a pain to remove the case cover still!
Damocles is offline  
post #3 of 29 Old 04-30-2015, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 96
My bike has 8300 miles and sounded like there were marbles rattling around in the left side at idle....so i tried the normal adjustment.....no change in sound or vibration so off went the cover, the spring was intact but no tension left so i loosened the adjuster bolt pushed the doohickey to the left it moved a noticeable amount tightened the bolt, put the cover back on and fired her up!!

After starting and hearing no marbles, i took a ride vibration was less... maybe 20% engine sounds better also seemed to run better.....maybe that was due to the fresh MI syn oil. So this works for gen 2s with no tension left in the spring.
Drifter. is offline  
 
post #4 of 29 Old 04-30-2015, 07:14 PM
5th Gear
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,228
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drifter. View Post
So this works for gen 2s with no tension left in the spring.
Works, independent of generation, IMHO.

All the tension spring does is remove slack in the balancer chain, only possible when the tension bolt is loosened. As you've shown, this function can be performed manually, without any spring tension assistance.

A better way: Eagle Mike "torsion" spring; performs tension adjustment automatically when tension bolt is loosened. (A functional stock-type coil spring will do the same.)
Damocles is offline  
post #5 of 29 Old 04-30-2015, 07:16 PM
4th Gear
 
GoMotor's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,216
I did it twice. Once while riding the Trans-America Trail with about 20K miles on the KLR and before I knew that the doo spring was not a life time part. And once with about 80K miles on the bike a few miles from the Mexican border I wanted to see if the torsion spring really was a life time part before entering Mexico. It looked like it was.
GoMotor is offline  
post #6 of 29 Old 05-15-2015, 06:32 PM
OverDrive
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 5,329
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drifter. View Post
My bike has 8300 miles and sounded like there were marbles rattling around in the left side at idle....so i tried the normal adjustment.....no change in sound or vibration so off went the cover, the spring was intact but no tension left so i loosened the adjuster bolt pushed the doohickey to the left it moved a noticeable amount tightened the bolt, put the cover back on and fired her up!!

After starting and hearing no marbles, i took a ride vibration was less... maybe 20% engine sounds better also seemed to run better.....maybe that was due to the fresh MI syn oil. So this works for gen 2s with no tension left in the spring.
Drifter,
If I am not mistaken, it is possible for an overly loose OEM spring to come adrift of its mounting pin inside of the engine. And cause failure.

It might be a good idea to replace correctly or remove old spring for safety.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
pdwestman is online now  
post #7 of 29 Old 05-21-2015, 06:58 AM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 96
That is a good point, when i did mine manually the spring seemed to have enough tension to hold it on the mount? Can the spring be removed without pulling the rotor?

This dam doohickey makes me miss my DR 650!
Drifter. is offline  
post #8 of 29 Old 06-19-2015, 03:50 PM
1st Gear
 
ackeitha's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 18
So I think this is the right thread to add onto. I'm not trying to resurrect old threads, but I can't remember how active this forum is. (I've been on my Mazdaspeed one a lot recently).

Anyway, long story short. I'm rebuilding my motor for the second time (I was an idiot the first time, ignored it the second) but my timing chain skipped timing and my intake valve said hello to my piston. I'm waiting on the new timing chain to come in with my engine apart and I go to add in the Eagle Mike doohickey while I'm sitting around. My balancer chain is loose as a goose and needs to be replaced. I thought the engine was pinging due to my terrible first rebuild job. Apparently that chain is worth $300!! That's ridiculous. Has anyone had any success taking a link out instead of replacing the entire thing? Trying to figure out any options other than bending over
ackeitha is offline  
post #9 of 29 Old 06-19-2015, 05:22 PM
4th Gear
 
GoMotor's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,216
What year is your KLR and how many miles are on it?

The balancer chain is good for well over 100,000 miles. It should be replaced when the 20 link/21 pin length reaches 193.4 mm: New 20 link length is 190.5mm

It is the wear on the rubber bumpers on the sides of the sprockets that causes most of the slack not chain wear. If the rubber is torn up, you may have to replace some of the sprockets.

On mine I just re-indexed the chain by one tooth on all of the sprockets including the crankshaft sprocket without moving the sprockets. So, the timing for all the sprockets was unchanged, but the chain links were sitting on new (not depressed) rubber. The outer links were sitting on non depresses rubber next to where the inner links were before and the same for the inner links. I picked up half an inch of doohickey rotation by doing this.
GoMotor is offline  
post #10 of 29 Old 06-19-2015, 06:53 PM
1st Gear
 
ackeitha's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 18
When I get home I'll measure it. I hope it's something as simple as reindexing the chain. It's a 2011 with around 25,000 hard and abused miles. I originally broke it taking it through what I thought was a little mud hole and had water up to the handle bars. Rebuilt the engine as cheaply as possible, it smoked all the time and would run low on oil occasionally. The chain is extremely loose with the tensioner maxed out, all the way to the case, so I don't think it'll be that easy. You can see where it would hit in places. Up by the top pulley specifically in the attached picture.
ackeitha is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Timing or balancer chain noise? 2375 1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods 28 10-02-2018 11:22 AM
2003 KLR 650 Balancer Chain Tensioner Question/Help rcm_other 1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods 4 05-16-2013 12:03 AM
balancer chain adjustment nut all the way tight hiinthesky 1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods 5 07-16-2012 04:24 PM
Balancer chain adjustment thumbs 1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods 37 06-15-2011 09:22 AM
Aftermarket balancer chain. Johnnieplasma KLR & Other Motorcycle Related Discussion 3 04-20-2010 08:19 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome