Back rack breaking bolts. - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 20 Old 05-09-2015, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Back rack breaking bolts.

I put a military surplus box on my back rack and bolted it to my rack via the 4 bolts that go to the passenger hand grips. First test ride the fender bolts "the two that go through the rack and middle of fender" rattled loose. Put locktite on them and they broke. Was thinking of drilling the box and putting longer bolts through the box and some rubber in between to help with vibration. Thanks for any help or ideas.
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post #2 of 20 Old 05-09-2015, 09:40 PM
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I use large 30"x12"x12" aluminum tool boxes as tail boxes on both my gen2 KLRs. I put quite a load in the box and ride long distance dirt road routes with lots of bumps. I broke three sets of the stock 6mm vertical bolts holding the rack down.

The solution is to replace the 6mm with 8mm with 78% more cross sectional area. On one gen2 I drilled and tapped the nuts to 8mm. On the other I just knocked the captive nuts out of the "U" bracket that holds them and put in an 8mm nut with a lubricated bolt through it to hold it in place. Then I packed the "U" bracket with JB Weld to hold the nut in place. When the JB cured I unscrewed the lubricated bolt. This left the nut firmly and perfectly in place with room for a bolt to screw a little past the nut in the bracket. The bolts are 35mm long, but all I could find at the hardware store were 40mm. So I cut of 5mm with my Dremel and all is good.

I think the drill and tap method is better, but both worked for me.
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post #3 of 20 Old 12-03-2019, 04:12 AM
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Hi there. So I am part-way down this route - just waiting for the jb weld to set on my nuts!
I've M8x35 allen-head bolts...…. So I have had to drill out the holes.....

I removed the collar from the top part of the rack - so the first hole the bolt passes through.
On the underside of that rack is a plate with 2 "tubes" and these sit down into holes in the top of the fender.
And there are collars that sit down in those holes.....

From the parts diagram here
- oops, had a url here but I need more posts for it to stick!
Its on the kawasakipartshouse site under fenders (mines a 2014....)
the collars are 92152B

Unfortunately, these collars were not on my (2nd hand) KLR, so I don't know if these are meant to be metal/rubber/ hard plastic....So my question is - what have others used here?

Cheers, rick
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post #4 of 20 Old 12-03-2019, 12:09 PM
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I'll encourage you to purchase the oem steel collars, they prevent crushing of the plastic fender.

pdwestman
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Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #5 of 20 Old 12-03-2019, 06:08 PM
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Thanks pdwestman.
This makes perfect sense.... but then I would need to drill out the hole on the collars to 8mm - out from 6mm?
My measurements indicate this will leave a width of approx. 1mm either side..... hopefully not too fine for me to make a mess of it!

I was taking the approach of rubber washers to pack the top part, which would leave about 3mm of hole where the bolt has no side support.

But I want to do this only once...… so keen to get your feedback on the idea of drilling out the collar - if this is the best way to approach this problem, that's what I'd like to hear!

Cheers
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post #6 of 20 Old 12-03-2019, 08:40 PM
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The oem collars probably have about a 7mm hole thru them already, so it should not take too much effort to enlarge them.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #7 of 20 Old 12-05-2019, 07:00 AM
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Well, ive looked at this issue again, this time with my glasses on! It must be a 3rd party rack as I now see a few changes compared with the parts diag …. mine has the grab-rails and indicators connected to the bottom section of it.

And critically for my issue, underneath the bottom part of the rack - the metal frame - there is a metal strip with 2 long "collars" welded here. So the most logical setup for me to maintain metal-to-metal is to just widen the holes through the mudguard so these "long collars" sit down onto the bracket under which I've JB welded the nut.

Cheers
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post #8 of 20 Old 12-05-2019, 11:53 AM
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Are you working on a Gen 2, 2008-2018? Like this rack diagragm?

https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/o...796add/fenders

Or as you said, a 3rd party rack?

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #9 of 20 Old 12-05-2019, 02:41 PM
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This is the page I've been looking at, along with the /seat one.
Now I'm back to thinking that this rack may be standard.... Looking at the /seat diag and the RHS grab rail, this shows that it bolts up into the bottom of the carrier sections. If I add the rear indicators onto the grab rail, then my rack does look like the same..... except for this
"underneath the bottom part of the rack - the metal frame - there is a metal strip with 2 long "collars" welded here".
(This bit is not a home job, it's definitely manufactured with the rack)
Looking at the /fenders diagram, from the bolt above the carrier racks.... follow the line down through the second carrier. and the welded "collar" protrudes about 10mm from the base of that. Its OD is 14mm & ID allows for an M8 bolt.


Thanks
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post #10 of 20 Old 12-05-2019, 05:53 PM
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Just looked at a Gen 2 in my shop.

Yes the oem 'under-rack' has a black metal strip with attached collars. And using a dental mirror I believe that I can see silver metal collars down inside the recessed pockets of its Red outer fender.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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