Carb Issues '08 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 12 Old 05-12-2015, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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Carb Issues '08

Long time no post...
I have been off the bike for a while (about 6 months) due to some health issues. Well It is time to get back on it and now she won't run... When I parked it I used a fuel stabilizer. So I took off the air cleaner and sprayed some carb cleaner in and it started but it won't keep running. The carb seems to be getting fuel if I loosen the bowl . and fuel is drain fuel come outflowing out of the tank. I took the carb apart and there is nothing wrong that I can see it is clean as a whistle. When I got the bike back together it started and ran for about a minute or so and now it won't start.

Any thoughts?

"It may have been Sir Isaac Newton what discovered gravity...
but it was Sir Evel Knievel what DEFIED it." Earl Pitts
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post #2 of 12 Old 05-12-2015, 09:53 PM
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Any thoughts?
1. Inoperative vacuum-actuated petcock. Check vacuum hose between petcock and vacuum port on carb. If o.k., then . . . remove fuel line from petcock. With petcock in the ON or RESERVE position, crank engine to develop vacuum. Observe fuel flow (if any) from tank (use catch vessel of some sort). With fuel flow when cranking engine, petcock operation confirmed.

2. Moisture contamination of fuel. Although the stabilizer may have prevented fuel gumming, daily atmospherics can deposit moisture in fuel tank. Most effective way to eliminate fuel contamination as a cause, DISCONNEDT carb fuel line, DRAIN float bowl (3 mm hex float bowl drain screw). Insert funnel into fuel line, fill with fresh, "dry" gasoline. Crank engine. If engine starts and runs on known good fuel supply, DRAIN fuel tank (through RESERVE petcock lever position, insuring lower reaches are purged). Fill tank with fresh gasoline; wouldn't hurt to add fuel line anti-freeze ("HEET" is a popular brand name for such an additive) to neutralize any residual moisture in tank.

3. You say carb's o.k., so . . . I can hold my third thought--STUCK float valve; no need to tell you to bash carb to set it free. Similarly, the float height must be correct, the starting enricher operational, given your inspection of the carb. Yet, although your visual inspection indicated nothing amiss, and although you used fuel stabilizer, unseen passages and/or jets may be clogged by crud (ethanol-laced fuel is DEADLY in this context). You may need to soak the carb in an effective carb cleaner to clean these orifices.

You asked for thoughts; those are mine for the moment; good luck!

Last edited by Damocles; 05-12-2015 at 10:03 PM.
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post #3 of 12 Old 05-12-2015, 10:39 PM
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I agree with Damocles.
You removed the bowl and cleaned the jets? You won't be able to see if it is clogged. Run a very, very fine strand of metal thru the jet to make sure it is clean. Dump the gas. New spark plug wouldn't hurt. Then fire her up.

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post #4 of 12 Old 05-13-2015, 12:25 AM
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These fine men speak the truth.

Had mine apart 4 times in three weeks.
Taught me to be thorough the first time.
I kept missing an obvious but tiny glitch.

It'll run again, and fine at that if it ran when you
parked it.

This is my son, with whom I am well pleased." ----God
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post #5 of 12 Old 05-13-2015, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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Well it is either the fuel itself or something in the jet cause it is sending fuel to the carb and there is fuel in he bowl.

"It may have been Sir Isaac Newton what discovered gravity...
but it was Sir Evel Knievel what DEFIED it." Earl Pitts
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post #6 of 12 Old 05-13-2015, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by drgibson View Post
Well it is either the fuel itself or something in the jet cause it is sending fuel to the carb and there is fuel in he bowl.
O.K.! Then you can break the fuel line, drain the float bowl, close the drain screw, and pour some known fresh wholesome gas into the carb through the fuel line.

If the bike starts and runs on the righteous fuel, great!

If not, you might get to see the carb innards, again!

Good luck.

Last edited by Damocles; 05-14-2015 at 03:05 AM.
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post #7 of 12 Old 05-14-2015, 01:19 AM
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I might add that the wholesome fresh gas might be helped along with a dose
of varnish removing carb cleaner. Just might get lucky on the "fix in a can" as
the bike hasn't been down all that long.

Da Cheapster

This is my son, with whom I am well pleased." ----God
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post #8 of 12 Old 05-14-2015, 10:20 AM
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drgibson and Rsm688 need to get together and compare notes, imo.

Pilot jet has the smallest jet hole size in the entire carb, feeding the pilot mixture screw and the 4 tiny little holes at the bottom edge of the throttle plate. It doesn't take much to restrict, much plug its orifice or the outlets above it.

One might see light thru it, but that light may have an amber tint to it. Because of a thin skin of gasohol 'varnish' across the hole or surrounding the hole. And the passage ways above, also.

The single strand of copper wire has already been suggested to poke thru the pilot jet. I bend another strand, 90 degrees, and poke Down thru the 4 tiny little holes at the bottom edge of the throttle plate. Then spray aerosol carb cleaner, Down thru those holes to back flush any debris.

pdwestman
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post #9 of 12 Old 05-14-2015, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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I'll try some of this tomorrow, I put in a new spark plug in today and tried fresh fuel but I forgot to drain the carb first, but I'm leaning toward the jets being clogged. Is there a thread on taking off the choke cable? I've forgotten how to get it off and I cant find my Clymer manual.

Also a buddy suggested it might be a valve, any thoughts on that?

"It may have been Sir Isaac Newton what discovered gravity...
but it was Sir Evel Knievel what DEFIED it." Earl Pitts
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post #10 of 12 Old 05-14-2015, 10:26 PM
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I did the .22 mod and never removed the carb from the bike. After you remove your tank, you should be able to just twist your carb to open the bottom to remove the jets.

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