Carb/idle issues, stumped...need help - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 05-14-2015, 01:24 AM Thread Starter
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Carb/idle issues, stumped...need help

Okay guys, I've run into an issue with my 2010 KLR650 with 1850 miles on it. I disassembled it for a good cleaning and lots of cosmetic changes and all. I pulled the airbox off, removed the snorkel, installed an FMF exhaust, I swapped the main jet to a 148, turned fuel screw out 2.5 turns, put in a new iridium plug, had all the controls off, etc.. The bike ran perfect before this. The tank was almost empty on gas when I pulled it, tried running it with the little left in there and it was acting up so put some fresh gas and a little seafoam in. Something is definitely off, here's what it's doing.


Started off would only start and idle with the choke on, would die when I turn choke off. It would rev fine just idle issues.
After running a little while it idled fine with no choke, when I gave it gas at first it bogged and I let it idle and it eventually died.
Choke on it started, then choke off it idled for a little after idling a little longer it bogged/hesitated a little when giving gas, also backfired a few times.
It will start up without the choke and idle now but it will idle a little erratic and die eventually

I played around with the air fuel screw a little and didn't really get much improvement.

All vaccuum lines are connected, checked airbox and tried it with the filter off and door off and still about the same.

My plastic choke housing cracked a little at the outer half, not near the threaded part, I removed it, epoxied it, wiped a little RTV over that, and put it back on and it's still the same. It didn't look like it was at any location that would cause any issues but I'm gonna order a new one anyways.

When I finally gave up it was idling without the choke and needed choke to get it to fire up but still would eventually die.


I'm kinda stumped here as to what could be going on here. My problems are all at idle, other than a little popping when giving it gas. I might try swapping back in the original main jet but I'm not worried about that at this point, just trying to get it to idle right. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.


Thanks,
Spencer
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post #2 of 13 Old 05-14-2015, 03:26 AM
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Symptoms are not inconsistent with a DIAPHRAGM AIR LEAK, IMHO.

Diaphragm could be torn, punctured, or . . . not correctly seated in its groove in the carburetor casting (most likely, for a bike that new).

A diaphragm air leak results in an excessively fuel-lean mixture; the needle cannot be lifted adequately to uncover the main jet for a proper air/fuel ratio. Thus, the bike will only run when the mixture is extraordinarily fuel-richened by engaging the "choke," withdrawing the starting enricher "plunger."

I'd suggest you remove the four machine screws holding the plastic mixing chamber cover onto the carburetor body, withdraw the slide and diaphragm. Inspect the diaphragm, and carefully re-assemble it, insuring the diaphragm forms an air-tight seal in its groove. Some use a dab of grease or silicon compound to hold the diaphragm in place during reassembly.

Good luck!

-----------------------------

Then again, Spencer . . . nothing wrong with restoring to stock condition, for comparison/diagnostic purposes. Since the bike was running o.k. before your "improvements," ironically, one or more of the "enhancements" may be responsible for your problem.

Last edited by Damocles; 05-14-2015 at 03:29 AM.
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post #3 of 13 Old 05-14-2015, 03:41 AM Thread Starter
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Damocles, thanks for that. I don't think the top of the carb has ever been off before (has factory screws that are NOT stripped). I'll pop the top off and take a look at it though and make sure all looks well. Seems strange that it would be fine before and go bad now while the bike has been sitting for two weeks.

Only thing with the carb that I messed with was swapped the main jet and adjusted the air fuel screw after pulling the cover off it, I pulled the main jet holder and collar and reinstalled (convex part of collar into convex end of main jet holder/short side down long side up).


Thanks,
Spencer
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post #4 of 13 Old 05-14-2015, 03:53 AM
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Lose the spark plug.
I run stock NGK, but many on here have tried iridium, split V,
platinum plus, etc. and there's issues with resistance. Then they reurn to
regular Champions, stockers, Bosch, etc.

A spark is a spark is a spark. If indeed that's the issue but the first thing
that popped into mind. The second is the cable holders for the throttle yankers.
They can wiggle a bit while hanging there and working the carb in and out of the
bike. Did you use the big screw running up diagonally to reset the idle to 1100 rpms?
I think that's what the book calls for. (1,100-1,200) Cranking it up a bit may help.

Hope you nail it down. We crave updates here @ KLR. Let us know the
progress or not. These guys are mega helpful as is youtube, service manual.
Your bike never has to go to the shop again likely.

This is my son, with whom I am well pleased." ----God
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post #5 of 13 Old 05-14-2015, 04:10 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks man, I'll throw the original plug back in and see if anything improves.

By cable holders are you talking about the bracket with the throttle/throttle return cables? They are good and adjusted spot on with no play in the line. I've fiddled with the idle screw as well. It's definitely seeming like a air/fuel/vacuum issue or maybe a poor spark issue


I'll definitely let ya'll know if I get it figured out, thanks for the help. Any other ideas on things to check would be greatly appreciated.

Anything electrical that could do that other than the plug? I'm not too familiar with the KLR electrical system, I had the coil off in the process


thanks,
Spencer
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post #6 of 13 Old 05-14-2015, 09:47 AM
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Rsm688,
IMO, your carburetor Pilot Jet is partially restricted! Thank EPA and Gasohol! Yes, it could have done so in a mere two weeks.

Pilot jet feeds the Pilot Mixture Screw and the 4 little holes at the Bottom edge of the throttle plate.
This is why your adjusting of mixture screw has little to Zero Effect.

pdwestman
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Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #7 of 13 Old 05-14-2015, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks pdwestman, I'll pull the pilot jet and clean it and see if that helps any
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post #8 of 13 Old 05-14-2015, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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I pulled pilot jet and cleaned it and I think it idles a little better. It still has to be started with the choke, but after a few seconds of idling with the choke. I turned the choke off and it idled very nice for between 1-3 minutes or so (did this a few times before I gave up and behaved the same every time). Then all of a sudden the idle slowly decreased then it died. It would take like maybe 5 seconds total to go from when it was idling nicely to when it died.


I'm stumped on what could be going on, any help would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks,
Spencer
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post #9 of 13 Old 05-14-2015, 04:41 PM
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Could be the broken cold start Enrichner (choke) Plastic cap or maybe fuel selector valve, vacuum diaphragm.

I don't think the big throttle valve diaphragm at the top of the carb would have any bearing on an idle issue.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #10 of 13 Old 05-14-2015, 06:19 PM
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I'm hung on the fact that you ran it with very little fuel in the tank. Have you checked to see if your petcock is delivering fuel consistently?
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