Eagle Mikes Jetting- running rough down low? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 10 Old 06-07-2015, 07:01 AM Thread Starter
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Eagle Mikes Jetting- running rough down low?

Hi all. I have a 2009 with the airbox/snorkel mod and a Lexx MXE slip on with the "race" spark arrest or insert. I live at 700 feet above sea level. I just purchased an Eagle Mikes jet kit, and installed the KLX needle at 2nd clip from top (no spacers underneath). I drilled the slide, kept stock pilot jet (45, I think?), installed a 142 main jet. Air screw is 2 1/2 turns out. Installed a button "choke" enrichener, in lieu of the cable operated one.

My question: bike starts, idles, etc. Runs GREAT at anything above 1/4 throttle, but is stumbling below that. What shoul I look at to clean up the low throttle response?

Thanks for any direction, I am hoping to narrow my troubleshooting.
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post #2 of 10 Old 06-07-2015, 01:36 PM
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Take a look at the idle mixture ("fuel") screw setting; stock 1-3/4 turns out is about right. Adjust yours for maximum idle rpm . . .
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post #3 of 10 Old 06-16-2015, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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So I set the air mixture screw about 1 3/4 out. Still starts fine, idles fine, but runs very rough at low throttle openings. has great power and runs great "on the main jet". I am now at a loss where to go with it?
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post #4 of 10 Old 06-16-2015, 08:51 PM
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EDIT: I gave some unnecessary advice on cleaning the pilot jet, having overlooked your statement that your bike idles fine.

The problem appears to be in mid-range operation, when the mixture is dominated by the needle/needle jet.

Since you replaced the needle . . . assuming it's installed correctly (easy to mess up the needle holder orientation/sequence/etc.), maybe you need to re-set at another notch; maybe the main jet's not exactly optimum (you changed that, too, right?). And maybe . . . your carb likes the good ol' stock parts!

Don't want to discourage any hop-up, and you consulted a known authority (Eagle Mike), but . . . given it was running o.k. before the "improvements," maybe restoring some of them to stock will produce the performance you're used to.

Sorry I can't be helpful beyond these speculative suggestions; here's hoping forum members with genuine expertise wade in and provide some meaningful, tangible input (unlike mine!).

Best of luck!
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post #5 of 10 Old 06-17-2015, 02:12 AM
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I'm backpedaling to the pilot jet.

Not sure here, but I'm believing the needle comes into play at about
1/8th to 1/4th throttle. If that's the case you are still on the low jet
until giving the cable a yank and the airflow is that of the needle and main
circuit. (Which in your case are dialed right in.) As the others mentioned,
sounds like you are rich on the idle mixture. I'm at the Lake Michigan shore
@ 630ft ASL and got the best fast idle at 1 5/8 turns, then backed off the BIG
idle screw on the side down to 1200rpm standard idle.

Never to overlook is the diaphram. A tiny leak would not be noticeable cruising
or running hard but will come into play at lower vac and airflow.

My best guess on Damocles' delete was to run a thin wire thru all of the
passages, even if you see light. Varnish can be very thin and nearly clear
but still plug off some flow. The wire will shove out anything in the way, which
can also be most any bit of flotsam from when the unit was opened up, or made
it past the gas tank fuel filter, ending up in your low circuit.

You are in good shape. This isn't major and can be tweaked out with only a few tries
or even less.
If you haven't had these things apart, grab a service manual, and youtube will walk
ya thru every step.

Mine's a black (the fastest color) '09 also and I still love the thing after seven seasons
on the thing.

Good luck and good hunting,
Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeap

This is my son, with whom I am well pleased." ----God
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post #6 of 10 Old 06-17-2015, 09:05 AM
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From, "Care and Feeding of the CVK40," posted on a now-discontinued website:

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post #7 of 10 Old 06-17-2015, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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I sure appreciate all of the good ideas. I watched a few YouTube video's last night, dealing specifically with Eagle Mikes jets AND the KLX needle. I now feel like a dumbass, as I have realized I was putting the needle THROUGH the little white "castle" spacer, not under it! That would hold the needle up at least 1/4". Explains why the bike starts great, and runs ok on the main, but is awful everywhere else. I discovered this late last night, and haven't had a chance to effect the changes. I took it apart, re-assembled properly, and it runs perfectly. I simply wasn't careful about ensuring I knew how it came apart.
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Last edited by PigWrangler; 06-17-2015 at 07:45 PM. Reason: Solved the problem
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post #8 of 10 Old 06-18-2015, 03:28 AM
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Please don't feel like a dumbarse.

If it helps, I had my carb off about a dozen times it seems. Kept stumbling and backfiring
for two months and I cleaned every part of the carb repeatedly. Ran perfect then the
problem returned and I'd do the carb again.

It wasn't the problem. Ignition box connector, the red plug with the click-tab kept
vibrating loose LONG after the tab broke off a few years ago. Time loosened it's
natural tight fit, then the problem started. I'd reconnect it tight so the scooter ran
great until working loose again. After all those rebuilds n' cleanings my issue was
fixed with less than a foot of electrical tape.

Hope ya feel better knowing I did repeated repairs right next to the real failure.

Older and smarter,
Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeap

This is my son, with whom I am well pleased." ----God
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post #9 of 10 Old 06-18-2015, 05:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PigWrangler View Post
I now feel like a dumbass, as I have realized I was putting the needle THROUGH the little white "castle" spacer, not under it! That would hold the needle up at least 1/4". Explains why the bike starts great, and runs ok on the main, but is awful everywhere else. I discovered this late last night, and haven't had a chance to effect the changes. I took it apart, re-assembled properly, and it runs perfectly. I simply wasn't careful about ensuring I knew how it came apart.
As previously mentioned,
Quote:
Since you replaced the needle . . . assuming it's installed correctly (easy to mess up the needle holder orientation/sequence/etc.), . . .
Never mind; you're not the first, nor will you be the last, to make this error.

Congratulations for solving the problem and getting your bike back to normal operation!
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post #10 of 10 Old 04-19-2016, 08:31 PM
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I think I may be having the same issue: the symptoms sound exactly the same with the exception of my idling being pretty rough. I recently did the .22 mod and opened up my airbox a little bit. Then pulled the plug and it looks like i'm running way too rich. Never thought to check the needle and that white castle-looking piece. I thought I needed a smaller idle jet.
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