Got my LED signals done - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 08-02-2015, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jul 2014
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Got my LED signals done

Instead of using the diode mod, i installed left and right signals in my dash, the stock signal indicator is now a reminder my LED Auxiliary lights are on.

2014 KLR650,2014 Polaris Sportsman 800EFI,2014 Vstrom 650 adventure,2002 F250 4x4 7.3l Diesel,2012 Subaru Forester,1970 Plymouth Barracuda.
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post #2 of 8 Old 08-02-2015, 08:10 PM
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Location: New Hampshire
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Xtra turn signals

I could never get used to just one turn indicator. I did mine a while ago.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fRn3gku8Uw




.

Ageing Gracefully



2017 Yamaha XT250
1990 Honda NX250 (Green/White)
2011 Kawasaki KLR 650 (Orange & White )

My KLR Page..http://www.powers31.info/2011_KLR650.htm

Mod's to KLR:
Power socket, L.E.D. Battery Indicator, Camera bag holder
Custom Saddlebag frames .
Louder horns, Firstgear Onyx tail bag.
Custom Aluminum Skid Plate.
Cut down seat with Custom pad.
Go Pro Camera mount.
Doo-Hicky
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post #3 of 8 Old 08-02-2015, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moooboy View Post
Instead of using the diode mod, i installed left and right signals in my dash, the stock signal indicator is now a reminder my LED Auxiliary lights are on.
Could you tell, moooboy; what, exactly, is the "diode mod?"

My riding partner has LED turn signals, and . . . he leaves his LEFT turn indicator on, blinking, and blinking, and blinking, and . . . well, you get the idea!

He says, because . . . the LED turn signal bulb substitution does not signal his dash light indicator when he energizes the left-turn switch. Also, the "diode mod" is supposed to cure this situation.

Tell me what it is, and I will try to see to its implementation. This relentless left turn signal is MADDENING, when I'm following him . . . not unlike the boy who cried, "Wolf!" His bike cries, "LEFT TURN! LEFT TURN! LEFT TURN! . . . and so on."
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post #4 of 8 Old 08-02-2015, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jul 2014
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You need to put a diode on the bulb in the dash, it gets fed by left and right, which is why they all blink(there's only one bulbs for both sides), power bleeds over, even with an LED flasher. Here's an ebay link, you can also easily make your own. Its like a check valve, only allowing power one way. Or you can separate them like i did, one bulb for left and one for right.
I used the existing holes in the dash, since i hate drilling holes in things, a rubber gromet to hold the bulbs in place.
Kuryakyn 4709 Diode Kit | eBay

2014 KLR650,2014 Polaris Sportsman 800EFI,2014 Vstrom 650 adventure,2002 F250 4x4 7.3l Diesel,2012 Subaru Forester,1970 Plymouth Barracuda.
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post #5 of 8 Old 08-02-2015, 09:08 PM
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Location: Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Could you tell, moooboy; what, exactly, is the "diode mod?"

My riding partner has LED turn signals, and . . . he leaves his LEFT turn indicator on, blinking, and blinking, and blinking, and . . . well, you get the idea!

He says, because . . . the LED turn signal bulb substitution does not signal his dash light indicator when he energizes the left-turn switch. Also, the "diode mod" is supposed to cure this situation.

Tell me what it is, and I will try to see to its implementation. This relentless left turn signal is MADDENING, when I'm following him . . . not unlike the boy who cried, "Wolf!" His bike cries, "LEFT TURN! LEFT TURN! LEFT TURN! . . . and so on."
As you know the dash turn signal indicator bulb is not connected directly to ground. It is connected between both the left and right turn signals. When the left signals are powered the left terminal of the dash bulb is also powered and the bulb gets its ground by back feeding through the right signal bulbs to their ground. It back feeds through the left bulbs when the right is powered. The dash bulb is so small that the current it back feeds through the opposite signal bulbs doesn't cause the signals to light up.

When the signal bulbs are replaced with LEDs that require much less current the small back feed current to the opposite side causes those bulbs to light up also. The solution is to connect both signal sides to the same terminal on the dash bulb and ground the other terminal of the dash bulb. Diodes are needed in the left and right side wires at the dash bulb to allow the signal to reach the bulb, but not back feed to the opposite side.

Or you can install two independently wired dash indicator bulbs with direct grounds as the original poster did.
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post #6 of 8 Old 08-02-2015, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jul 2014
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There a diagram here to make it clearer, just scroll down the page
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...kit/1190/2805/

2014 KLR650,2014 Polaris Sportsman 800EFI,2014 Vstrom 650 adventure,2002 F250 4x4 7.3l Diesel,2012 Subaru Forester,1970 Plymouth Barracuda.
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post #7 of 8 Old 08-03-2015, 09:08 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
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Thanks, moooboy and GoMotor!

Now, wouldn't you know . . . he's just gone off an bought a CB1100, and has his KLR650 up for sale!

Here's an extract from his post on another website; if interested, I'll help you contact him:

----------------------------

I have fallen for a Honda CB 1100 and the wife says the KLR has to go. It runs perfectly, has a few scratches from two parking lot drops, and the right fairing panel has a piece broken off (see last photo). And it could use a bath. $4200.
So, in no particular order...
2011. Burnt Orange (says the Texan).
10357 miles. I will ride it a bit, so your mileage may vary.
685 kit added when new.
Oil changed at 200, 1000, and every 3000 after that.
Carb rejetted and slide drilled.
Eagle Mike Dohickey done.
ThermoBob.
MEFO tires with 3200 miles. Many miles left both front and rear.
SW Motek engine guards and Ebay highway pegs.
Leo Vince X3 slip-on (New OEM exhaust included).
Nearly new YUASA sealed battery.
JNS skid plate.
Gaffer Steel brake line in front.
Fork tuned by Rick at Cogent Dynamics.
Progressive rear suspension (465 series... the adjust-on-the-fly one). New OEM shock included.
Eagle Mike fork brace.
Moose Racing foot pegs.
16 tooth front sprocket.
Center stand and lift handle (Happy Trails? Anyhow, it's removed).
Corbin low seat (OEM seat installed now).
1" Lowering links installed. I think I still have the OEM ones.
OEM wind screen installed, Cee Bailey tall screen included.
Oxford heated grips. Better-than-OEM contoller installed on dash.
License bracket deleted (OEM is here someplace).
ADMORE tail light and LED flashing brake light.
LED dash lights.
Acerbis Supermoto ront fender, lowered.
1.5" bar risers. Longer cables installed.
Spare clutch cable run alongside original.
Pelican side cases and tool tube, with locks.
Generic top case.
Stebel dual-tone horn. The loud one.
Two 12v. plugs and three auxiliary switches on dash. One switch wired to the heated grips. One 12v plug needs to be replaced.
Critical wiring rewrapped.
Several custom wiring fixes done by forum member Alpheus.
A couple of oil filters, oil, etc.
There must be more, but that's all that comes to mind.

---------------------------
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post #8 of 8 Old 08-03-2015, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Thanks, moooboy and GoMotor!

Now, wouldn't you know . . . he's just gone off an bought a CB1100, and has his KLR650 up for sale!

Here's an extract from his post on another website; if interested, I'll help you contact him:

----------------------------

I have fallen for a Honda CB 1100 and the wife says the KLR has to go. It runs perfectly, has a few scratches from two parking lot drops, and the right fairing panel has a piece broken off (see last photo). And it could use a bath. $4200.
So, in no particular order...
2011. Burnt Orange (says the Texan).
10357 miles. I will ride it a bit, so your mileage may vary.
685 kit added when new.
Oil changed at 200, 1000, and every 3000 after that.
Carb rejetted and slide drilled.
Eagle Mike Dohickey done.
ThermoBob.
MEFO tires with 3200 miles. Many miles left both front and rear.
SW Motek engine guards and Ebay highway pegs.
Leo Vince X3 slip-on (New OEM exhaust included).
Nearly new YUASA sealed battery.
JNS skid plate.
Gaffer Steel brake line in front.
Fork tuned by Rick at Cogent Dynamics.
Progressive rear suspension (465 series... the adjust-on-the-fly one). New OEM shock included.
Eagle Mike fork brace.
Moose Racing foot pegs.
16 tooth front sprocket.
Center stand and lift handle (Happy Trails? Anyhow, it's removed).
Corbin low seat (OEM seat installed now).
1" Lowering links installed. I think I still have the OEM ones.
OEM wind screen installed, Cee Bailey tall screen included.
Oxford heated grips. Better-than-OEM contoller installed on dash.
License bracket deleted (OEM is here someplace).
ADMORE tail light and LED flashing brake light.
LED dash lights.
Acerbis Supermoto ront fender, lowered.
1.5" bar risers. Longer cables installed.
Spare clutch cable run alongside original.
Pelican side cases and tool tube, with locks.
Generic top case.
Stebel dual-tone horn. The loud one.
Two 12v. plugs and three auxiliary switches on dash. One switch wired to the heated grips. One 12v plug needs to be replaced.
Critical wiring rewrapped.
Several custom wiring fixes done by forum member Alpheus.
A couple of oil filters, oil, etc.
There must be more, but that's all that comes to mind.

---------------------------
I thought i was a farkle fanactic, this guy wins that catagory, lol
He probably has more money in this KLR than his new cb1100.
Someone's going to get a ton of money in mods cheap

2014 KLR650,2014 Polaris Sportsman 800EFI,2014 Vstrom 650 adventure,2002 F250 4x4 7.3l Diesel,2012 Subaru Forester,1970 Plymouth Barracuda.
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