Yet another brake pad question - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-08-2015, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
D C
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Yet another brake pad question

Whenever I change the brakes in our cars/trucks I lightly sand the rotors and pads to remove any glaze. Seems also to prevent any grinding/singing that new pads can do. Is anything like that necessary on the KLR when I swap the pads out?
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post #2 of 11 Old 08-08-2015, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by D C View Post
Whenever I change the brakes in our cars/trucks I lightly sand the rotors and pads to remove any glaze. Seems also to prevent any grinding/singing that new pads can do. Is anything like that necessary on the KLR when I swap the pads out?
No, IMHO, given nominally serviceable rotor; YMMV!

BTW; Galfer Green pads treat rotors gently, in my experience; wear more quickly than others.
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post #3 of 11 Old 08-08-2015, 08:03 PM
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I think I need some new rear pads. At 13K I can still lock up the back brake but have noticed I have to push the pedal down a lot further to do so.



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post #4 of 11 Old 08-09-2015, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by planalp View Post
I think I need some new rear pads. At 13K I can still lock up the back brake but have noticed I have to push the pedal down a lot further to do so.

The pads are pretty easy to check.....with the caliper mounted or removed (two 12mm headed bolts). I would change them out if worn down to about 1mm pad left. It takes about 15 minutes max to change the pads and clean the pistons.
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post #5 of 11 Old 08-09-2015, 05:33 PM
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The pads are pretty easy to check.....with the caliper mounted or removed (two 12mm headed bolts). I would change them out if worn down to about 1mm pad left. It takes about 15 minutes max to change the pads and clean the pistons.
It's on my list for this Winter. I've got a bunch of stuff to do. Also time for another valve clearance check. The Old Girl is going on 6 years old so probably time to replace both front and rear pads and replace fluid in both systems.

I need to pick up some JIS bits before I try to crack open the front brake reservoir. Bike has always been stored under cover, but I've never touched those screws.

Give me a good source for an affordable JIS bit set, Damocles.



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post #6 of 11 Old 08-09-2015, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by planalp View Post
It's on my list for this Winter. I've got a bunch of stuff to do. Also time for another valve clearance check. The Old Girl is going on 6 years old so probably time to replace both front and rear pads and replace fluid in both systems.

I need to pick up some JIS bits before I try to crack open the front brake reservoir. Bike has always been stored under cover, but I've never touched those screws.

Give me a good source for an affordable JIS bit set, Damocles.
JIS bits are a good thing.....the screws either come out easily or not. I usually replace the brake fluid front and rear after 2 years or 12,000 miles...whichever comes first.

"JIS screwdriver" - Stanley Supply & Services
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post #7 of 11 Old 08-09-2015, 06:07 PM
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Give me a good source for an affordable JIS bit set, Damocles.
Had one, tried to recover it, and . . . as I recall, the link was either dead, or the product not currently cataloged.

MEANWHILE, even if no JIS bits are available, I commend to you an IMPACT DRIVER. Harbor Freight has one for less than $ 10 with bits; blunting a SAE Phillips-head bit gives it better purchase in a JIS screw head. (No need for an 8-pound sledge at full swing for a brake fluid reservoir top screw; light, crisp, smallish ball peen hammer taps should be enough.)

BTW, I did replace the cross-head screws with countersunk hex socket (Allen head) screws I found at the hardware store.

Finally, there's the old Moto-Tool cut-off wheel flat-blade screwdriver slot cutting exercise . . .

Last edited by Damocles; 08-09-2015 at 06:09 PM.
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post #8 of 11 Old 08-09-2015, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Had one, tried to recover it, and . . . as I recall, the link was either dead, or the product not currently cataloged.

MEANWHILE, even if no JIS bits are available, I commend to you an IMPACT DRIVER. Harbor Freight has one for less than $ 10 with bits; blunting a SAE Phillips-head bit gives it better purchase in a JIS screw head. (No need for an 8-pound sledge at full swing for a brake fluid reservoir top screw; light, crisp, smallish ball peen hammer taps should be enough.)

BTW, I did replace the cross-head screws with countersunk hex socket (Allen head) screws I found at the hardware store.

Finally, there's the old Moto-Tool cut-off wheel flat-blade screwdriver slot cutting exercise . . .
Right on, Damocles. I'll keep this in mind.



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post #9 of 11 Old 08-09-2015, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by whisperquiet View Post
JIS bits are a good thing.....the screws either come out easily or not. I usually replace the brake fluid front and rear after 2 years or 12,000 miles...whichever comes first.

"JIS screwdriver" - Stanley Supply & Services
Thanks, whisperquiet!



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post #10 of 11 Old 08-09-2015, 07:57 PM
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Just FYI, here's an image of the screw head type of my replacement master cylinder cover screws:



I think the difficulty in removing some screws, aside from the JIS/SAE incompatibility of screwdrivers, is GALVANIC CORROSION. The dissimilar metals, steel screws and alloy castings, can result in tremendous adhesion when these unlike materials remain in contact for extended periods.

An impact driver often effectively overcomes the adhesion, because . . . the screw is torqued only when thread tension is relieved from a hammer blow. The hammer impact, 1) relieves thread tension, and 2) simultaneously applies torque to the screw. Useful characteristics sometimes in loosening carburetor screws, engine case screws.

Last edited by Damocles; 08-09-2015 at 08:04 PM.
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