Thermo-Bob 3 - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #11 of 38 Old 10-25-2015, 01:20 AM
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In the second photo it appears that the bypass line is tapped into the t-bob housing up stream of the thermostat. Am I just not squinting at the photo right?
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post #12 of 38 Old 10-25-2015, 01:31 AM Thread Starter
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It is downstream, as is the sensor port.

I'll double check it on final assembly, in case I'm suffering from recto-cranial insertion and my clear plastic navel cover is foggy.

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post #13 of 38 Old 10-29-2015, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Here re the differences in size and construction:



And the bypass flow path:


Tom

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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 10-30-2015 at 11:19 AM.
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post #14 of 38 Old 10-29-2015, 02:35 PM
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Are you going to install the housing "backwards" so the bypass side can flow continuously without passing through the thermostat and the radiator water enters what would normally be the discharge side of the thermostat?
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post #15 of 38 Old 10-29-2015, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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Yes. Coolant will flow out of the head through the upper radiator hose. The bypass fitting is in that hose. The bypass hose will run down to the TB3 and around the T-stat, which is a 185°F unit.

When that bypassed coolant reaches the 185°F range the t-stat will open, allowing full flow of coolant from the bottom of the radiator to the pump.

Schematically, it will look like this:


Tom

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post #16 of 38 Old 10-29-2015, 05:44 PM
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I was asking for the benefit of those following your path. It would be easy to in inadvertently pipe it using the "standard" inlet/outlet arrangement.

Your arrangement is a clever one for those of us using the IMS 10.7 gallon tank. In my case I had already install a bypass line from a fitting tapped into the head. So, when Watt-man came out with the 195 deg. t-stat that fit the stock housing, I just popped one in and my big tank fits fine. With the advent of the t-bob3, I recommend your approach over mine.
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post #17 of 38 Old 10-29-2015, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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If I had more confidence in my ability to drill and tap where there is no room for error I might have gone your route. My work area is called the Shop of Horrors for a good reason.

I cannot claim cleverness for this; it was Watt-man's suggestion. The sketch above is his.

New hoses (to replace the spares that are lost somewhere in the Shed of Horrors) are supposed to be here tomorrow.

Tom

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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 10-29-2015 at 06:23 PM.
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post #18 of 38 Old 10-29-2015, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
Here re the differences in size and construction:



And the bypass flow path:


Tom
Tom,
Can you please 'add' direction of FLOW arrows to the 'yellow-wire' pics and 'upper' hose, 'lower' hose NOTATIONS!

I would also like to Thank, Normk!
For finding the Chinese source for Thermostats to make this Modification possible!

ps,

pdwestman
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Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting

Last edited by pdwestman; 10-30-2015 at 03:39 PM. Reason: ps, Deleted.
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post #19 of 38 Old 10-29-2015, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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Paul,

Does that help?

Tom

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post #20 of 38 Old 10-30-2015, 10:00 AM
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Kind of.

So, Watt-man did/does offer a 185 thermostat for the Original T-Bob. It is used in the Versys kit, which uses the backward flow pattern. T-Bob in the lower hose.

So with a 185 stat in an original housing, couldn't one just trade locations of parts?

pdwestman
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Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting

Last edited by pdwestman; 10-30-2015 at 03:42 PM. Reason: Tom correctly edited pics. I edited my statement.
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