not turning over - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 12-14-2015, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs down not turning over

I have a 2011 klx650 it will not turn over I have 12.45 volts at the battery but when I turn the key on it goes to .45 volts and will not turn over when I put a jump box on it it does turn over starts then shuts right off please I'm stuck
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post #2 of 12 Old 12-14-2015, 03:58 PM
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terminals

Have you checked to make sure battery terminals and cables are clean and tight also ck for possible loose ground also perform load test on battery?
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post #3 of 12 Old 12-14-2015, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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yes all connections are tight load test is not able to do when i turn the ingnition on it reads .45 volts at the battery and at the solinoid the solinoid has 12.45 volts on it untill i turn the key on them .45 volts its driving me nuts
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post #4 of 12 Old 12-14-2015, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by tdoucette View Post
yes all connections are tight load test is not able to do when i turn the ingnition on it reads .45 volts at the battery and at the solinoid the solinoid has 12.45 volts on it untill i turn the key on them .45 volts its driving me nuts
tdoucette,
Your battery is BAD, BAd, Bad, bad.
It has no ampere capacity! As soon as any light is turned on, it gives what little it has got, and it is No Where near enough.

Purchase a new battery and charge it until it reads at least 14.5 volts, while still on the charger. Not an automatic battery maintainer! They go into storage mode to early. They do work great as a maintainer on a good, well charged battery thou. They usually hover between 12.9 and 13.5 volts.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #5 of 12 Old 12-14-2015, 06:24 PM
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Agree; sounds like a bad battery.

Voltage o.k., but . . . cells break down under load.

Clue: Starts with booster battery, but not on-board battery.
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post #6 of 12 Old 12-14-2015, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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battery was tested they said it was ok but ill try another one just bought that one
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post #7 of 12 Old 12-14-2015, 07:32 PM
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battery was tested they said it was ok but ill try another one just bought that one
LOAD tested? A mere voltage reading might not tell the whole story about your battery's condition.

If so, a truly perplexing problem. Your "tested good" battery won't turn the bike over, but . . . a jumper battery will.

Generally speaking, electrons (or "holes," if you wish), have no conscience. They'll generally migrate between positive and negative poles, if the voltage and current capacity is there. The jumper battery insures a healthy supply of electrons/holes, and the bike starts. The on-board battery, somehow, does not.

Fascinating!

As one test procedure, JUMP the positive terminal of your "tested good" battery to the "downstream" positive terminal of your starter relay. If the engine turns over with this technique, but not by ordinary means, you have a problem in the arcane circuitry between the ignition switch, starter button, kill switch, starter circuit relay, three safety switch diodes, the starter relay, and perhaps the un-fused cable between the battery positive terminal and the starter relay.

Best wishes and good luck; wiring diagram available from Google and from this website.
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post #8 of 12 Old 12-14-2015, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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i just went to harbour frieght and bought a battery load tester im going to test it myself in the morning i did not try it with battery but i did try it with a charger but not on the battery side on the starter side it did work i will try it on the battery side tomorrow and post the findings i have a feeling you are right about the battery i hope anyway
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post #9 of 12 Old 12-14-2015, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
LOAD tested? A mere voltage reading might not tell the whole story about your battery's condition.

The on-board battery, somehow, does not.

Fascinating!

As one test procedure, JUMP the positive terminal of your "tested good" battery to the "downstream" positive terminal of your starter relay. If the engine turns over with this technique, but not by ordinary means, you have a problem in the arcane circuitry between the ignition switch, starter button, kill switch, starter circuit relay, three safety switch diodes, the starter relay, and perhaps the un-fused cable between the battery positive terminal and the starter relay.

Best wishes and good luck; wiring diagram available from Google and from this website.
Damocles,
I'll suggest a total 'waste of time'.

Battery voltage drops to 'near ZERO', with the key ON. Lights on.
Much less, the starter button engaged! BAD battery. Probably will Not Accept a re-charge.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #10 of 12 Old 12-14-2015, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Damocles,
I'll suggest a total 'waste of time'.

Battery voltage drops to 'near ZERO', with the key ON. Lights on.
Much less, the starter button engaged! BAD battery. Probably will Not Accept a re-charge.
Suggestion noted; however . . . OP says battery tests good; alternate test provided as, "benefit of a doubt!"

As posted above, I suspect bad battery also.
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