Doohickey question. - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 18 Old 03-25-2016, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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Doohickey question.

I just purchased a 2000 Gen 1 KLR with the doohickey mod already done to it. The previous owner used an Eagle Mikes doohickey. My question is this. I see that the Eagle Mike package includes with it new springs. It says on the website that you would need to purchase a torsion spring separately. Can a doohickey be done without the Torsion spring and just the springs that come with it? I just don't know if the previous owner also did the torsion as well? You would think since you have all the covers off you would do the full 100%....right?
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post #2 of 18 Old 03-25-2016, 09:27 AM
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Yup, you can do the Eagle Mike doohickey just fine with the regular included springs. Most people just prefer the Torsion spring since it has infinite adjustment.
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post #3 of 18 Old 03-25-2016, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00Gen1 View Post
You would think since you have all the covers off you would do the full 100%....right?
The torsion spring was not always an option with the Doohickey mod. I bought my 2004 KLR in 2006 and at that time it was only available with coil springs. Likely what happened with your 2000. Wasn't like the owner cheaped out. I've since purchased a torsion spring but have been too lazy to install it.

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post #4 of 18 Old 03-25-2016, 08:52 PM
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I have the Doohickey with Torsion Spring as well.
(In my closet...)
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post #5 of 18 Old 03-26-2016, 07:03 AM
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Just did mine a month ago, stock was still fine, but now I know it's good to go. Nothing better than piece of mind.


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post #6 of 18 Old 03-26-2016, 02:52 PM
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As long as your balancing system continues to adjust when you loosen and re-tighten the adjusting bolt the system is fine. If it starts to make noises like the main rear drive chain does when it is too loose and rattling around, then you need to pull the left outside cover and check to see if there is any spring tension left by loosening the adjuster and pushing on the part of the doohickey that you can see to see if the spring presses it back.

If you need to order a new spring (shorter extension or a torsion) at that time, you can adjust the doohickey by hand and lock it in place with the adjuster. That should keep good tension for three to five thousand miles if you do not loosen the adjuster bolt. During that time you can order a spring, gaskets, a rotor bolt and rotor removal tools. Or you can borrow the tools.
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post #7 of 18 Old 03-26-2016, 03:11 PM
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I see tons of posts on having this done, and some with spring failures as early as 5k. Yet I looked in my manual and the first adjustment is at 7k then every 7k after that. Why is it some say to do it every oil change?
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post #8 of 18 Old 03-26-2016, 05:37 PM
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I think just to be sure it's at the best it can be. The biggest issue is, if the spring is broken or has zero tension you will never know unless you go inside to check......if it is either you will never know and you will simply loosen and tighten the adjusting bolt and you possibly could be making things worse by doing so. As if it is broken or the sring is off the post, DOO itself and you loosen it there is a good chance all you're doing is allowing the DOO to move where ever it wants to go to, not in the correct location etc etc.....We can't say this enough.....simly do your DOO and every now and then go inside to inspect it. The biggest thing is, what if and something lets go, the amount of POSSIBLE damage worst case is huge!
IF you have the parts etc etc, just do it,,,,seriously...get it done!

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post #9 of 18 Old 03-26-2016, 05:43 PM
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I got the coil/ pull springs with my EM kit and used the shorter of the two.


Not gonna worry about it until about 50k. (19k) now. US miles.
Also, if you (anyone reading this) used these springs, and grabbed them in the center
of the hook look into going torsion sooner than later. A slight nick in the spring
is now the weak point at which a break can propagate from. Grabbed mine from
the side luckily.

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Last edited by CheapBassTurd; 03-26-2016 at 05:46 PM.
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post #10 of 18 Old 03-26-2016, 05:51 PM
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Hey it's your bike and your wallet as i keep saying but we shouldn't be saying it's a non issue imho.....better Eagle Mike become a multi millionaire from the sale of them than to have one destroy your engine in the worst case synario...imho....besides it is a cheap mod or thing to do.....I do not personally see a bad side to this mod....even the price is easy to swallow.....lol.

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