Break in oil? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 03-30-2016, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
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Break in oil?

I just bought a used 2015 KLR with 500 miles on it. Im sure the owner hasn't changed the break in oil yet. When do I need to change the oil and which brand do you recommend? I've always used the expensive mobile 1 in my ninja and my four-wheelers never had a problem. Also how do I tell if this bike is the new edition with the heavier springs? Sorry for the dumb questions, but thanks so much for any help..
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post #2 of 8 Old 03-31-2016, 12:37 AM
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Now. Anything.

Just use the proper grade. The most popular on this site is Rotella 15w-40 diesel grade.

My first and worst (always on a new engine) was at 40 miles and fulla pearly sludge
from the machining processes of all the parts running themselves in together from
transmission gears, clutch plate surfaces, and of course seating the rings.

Changed again at a few hundred, then regular times after that.

(My story is break-in coming home from the dealer. Went up and down thru the gears
using big throttle and full compression braking downshifting. Babied it for 10 minutes,
then have beating the crap out of it ever since with very little mercy.)

The main thing is getting that first change as early as possible in my experience over
the years.


This is my son, with whom I am well pleased." ----God

Last edited by CheapBassTurd; 03-31-2016 at 12:39 AM. Reason: It needed edited.
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post #3 of 8 Old 03-31-2016, 01:58 AM
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Yep. I use Rotella, but doing it ASAP is the most important thing.

"In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV." R. Pirsig

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post #4 of 8 Old 03-31-2016, 08:30 AM
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You have the new edition. The heavier suspension and narrow seat started in 2014.5. As for oil, I changed mine at 500 miles using Kawasaki 10w40.
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post #5 of 8 Old 03-31-2016, 08:36 AM
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I changed mine at 600, I did like cheap bastard, babied it for a few then rode it like I stole it. Now I use Rotella T5 full synthetic and change the oil every 2500 miles. Also agree with Back2Kawi, I purchased a 2014.5 the first of the new editions, everything after that I believe is the new edition. You anywhere close to the dragon? I will be down that way the 24th-27th of June.
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post #6 of 8 Old 03-31-2016, 08:41 AM
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Oh and as for break-in, I kept rpms under 4 for the first 500 miles and under 6 for the next five hundred. Though I gotta say, mines broken in and I've yet to get it past 5.5k rpms. Just don't feel the need.
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post #7 of 8 Old 03-31-2016, 09:36 AM
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I'm in the old schoold break-in methods, but again, you paid for your bike and it's you who has to pay to repair it when shit goes you either do it one way or the other and risk it...imho. I'm a firm believer in sensible RPM increases and plenty of down shifting to create plenty of back pressure on those rings. I tell everyone who i build engines for, the very same thing......if it runs up and down my street it'll be perfect for as long as you own it, that is IF you follow my simple instructions for the first 4 oil changes.....if you do not, then you're on your own. Plain and simple. I demand you change the oil within 100 miles of the machining work, then after 250, 500 and 1000.....after that your choice. After 2500 miles you can switch to synthetic, I recommend that also...but it's your choice 100%....I ask that you keep the RPMs below 3500 for the first 100 miles, yes it is painstaking and maybe slow but you can do it and also seat the rings in while keeping it that low, then after every 100 or so miles carefully increase the RPMs 500 or so until you have it where you want to take it to. You must do plenty of downshifting or the backside of the rings do not get what they need to seat in correctly. plain and simple. I also use cheap brand name bike 10W40 oils non synthetic versions until you choose to go synthetic.....I'm not a person who likies Rotella simply due to the colour it turns after 5 minutes of riding....BLACK! Personally I like to see my oil not black so I know when it's ful of debris and requires to be changed IF before my scheduled periods. You just can't see that IF the oil has turned black in the first short while...imho. But again to each their own......
I have been doing this method for all but one of my engines with fantastic rsults. that one worked but puffed a bit when it was first started lawn gets set at a certain RPM to cut with and that is little choiceunless I drove it around the neighborhood like an idiot for a week before i started cutting It runs perfectly fine but it puffs at start up.....something no other engines have done. So that is my stupid
As for your engine and not knowing what has happened previously, I would drop the oil asap, then run her for 250 and drop her again then go to the recommended intervals or whatever you think is's basically broken in almost now seeing as you do not know what the first guy roade her's the chance we all take when buying a bike we do not break in.....we hope it was done the best it could be. plain and simple. Change the filter with each oil change well.....
I think of the oil as the life's blood of your engine, if it's always clean and healthy ....the engine will be also......if it's dirty and plugged up etc as in the filter, then expect something bad to happen sooner than later....imho. Simply translate it to your own body.....

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post #8 of 8 Old 03-31-2016, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Lzeplin View Post
I just bought a used 2015 KLR with 500 miles on it. Im sure the owner hasn't changed the break in oil yet. When do I need to change the oil and which brand do you recommend? I've always used the expensive mobile 1 in my ninja and my four-wheelers never had a problem. Also how do I tell if this bike is the new edition with the heavier springs? Sorry for the dumb questions, but thanks so much for any help..
I'll highly recommend the Kawasaki 10W40 petroleum oil, as I am using in this thread, (click on the Blue links)

Change your oil every 3000 miles, or once a year if your bike gets a lot of short trips. If you ride further, faster, your oil stays cleaner longer.
If you generally ride 20 miles or less most often, I'll strongly urge you to install a Thermo-Bob 2 from Watt-man at Welcome . I'll endorse the use of the Thermo-Bob to anyone, in any climate, get that oil up to temp along with the coolant. I believe most of the stock engines oil warmth comes from the close proximity of the oil filter and water pump.

Wattman uses Mobile 1.

Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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