Jetting for Yoshimura RS2 Exhaust - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 11 Old 04-07-2016, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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Jetting for Yoshimura RS2 Exhaust

I just purchased a Yoshimura RS2 exhaust for my 2012 KLR 650. What else, including jetting, do I need to consider before doing the install?
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post #2 of 11 Old 04-28-2016, 02:52 PM
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I really hope someone answers this, cause I did the same thing to my 2015.

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post #3 of 11 Old 04-28-2016, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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Chris,

I did the install and my bike started running so lean that it would shut-off when giving throttle. I have it in the shop now getting the carb jetted with a kit I purchased from Eaglemike.com and was told that would solve the problem. Once I get it back from jetting, I'll post up and let you know if that solved it. Cheers!
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post #4 of 11 Old 04-28-2016, 05:05 PM
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I've never heard of a slip on causing that. I'm not saying that you weren't experiencing those symptoms. Just that other issues would be the culprit. I've ran plenty of bikes with and without adjusting the carb/fuel injection and never had one shut off on full throttle. The klr is a very low revving engine, I just can't imagine the slip on causing that. I surely hope they fix it though. Keep us informed.
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post #5 of 11 Old 04-28-2016, 05:45 PM
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Without devolving into a page long post; You don't need to do much with the jetting for a slip on because the airbox is a much larger bottleneck than the silencer is.

Want it to run right?

- buy a KLX kit from Eaglemike.com and follow the instructions

- pull the snorkle and do the L-mod (or equivalent 4 - 1" holes)

- add the silencer of your choice

- ride.



Dave
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post #6 of 11 Old 04-28-2016, 05:46 PM
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....and because somebody will argue with me on the airbox thing, read this from KLR Cary (RIP)

A lot of missunderstanding with airbox issues.

First, the screen. Airflow gains are not linear. Removing the screen with an otherwise stock KLR airbox will only gain you 2 cfm. The engine won't know the differance. However, with a heavily modified airbox, the gain from removing the screen is 8 cfm. Depending on what else is done to the engine, you may make more power. I doubt that you'll feel it, but a dyno will show it. Butt-dyno's can detect very small low rpm changes, but don't detect higher rpm changes very well at all. You'll likely not detect it, but that does not mean it's not there.

Comparing screen removal to other models is wrong, particularly with the newer sportbikes. With them, the screen often serves another purpose as well. Air distribution in a 4 cyl sportbike can be a real problem, particularly with "ram air". Removing the screen on them can cause very real losses, depending on the model. That does NOT apply to the KLR.

Same thing with air filters. There is only about 2 cfm differance from the best filter (UNI), to the worst (K&N). With a modified airbox, that differance grows to 9 cfm.

Here is the flow chart:

Completely stock - 64.8cfm
Same - Remove snorkle - 74cfm
Same - With UNI filter - 76.2cfm
Same - Remove screen - 78.6cfm
Same - Small "L" cut - 85.1cfm
Same - Large "L" cut, open snorkle area further - 92.4
Same - Remove door - 103.2

Alternate - UNI filter, No snorkle, With screen, No door, No "L" cut - 95.4

All at 2" of water, tested at 1 1/2" and 3" and averaged to 2"

To answer the larger question, how much air can the KLR really use?
....................
A stock KLR about 70-80cfm. With a good pipe about 75-90cfm. A modified motor about 90-100cfm. Having a bit more capacity than you you need will not hurt anything. The effects are not linear though. Going from 65cfm to 75cfm you will likely notice, but going from 75 to 85 cfm you likely won't.

Part of the confusion might be due to the effects of the carb shimming. Since that mod is for a stock needle, the snorkle removal serves not just to add air, but to lean out the top end. The stock KLR till 07 is rich on the top. ( The 08 has a smaller main jet.) Airbox mods have much more effect on top end mixture, so, with the stock needle it also helps straighten out the fuel curve.

Finally the airbox door. You've got to carefull there. You don't have clean air there. It's flowing past that door when riding. You can easily create a partial low pressure area there, depending on wind direction, and where you place your leg!

Cary
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post #7 of 11 Old 04-28-2016, 05:49 PM
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As you can see, a stock KLR benefits from the snorkle-ectomy and airbox mods to bring it to at least 80 CFM. I don't recommend removing the screen (PITA) or running without an airbox door for reasons that should be obvious.

Also, some people put little filters in their 1" holes but I don't see the point; the air from the snorkle opening isn't pre-filtered and you're on the dirty side of the airbox anyhow....just increases maintenance and cuts down airflow for dubious gains IMHO.

Cheers,
Dave
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post #8 of 11 Old 04-28-2016, 10:20 PM
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Stock jetting is fine.

The shimmed needle gets us on the main a bit sooner.
Turn out the idle screw approx 2 turns then adjust for smoothest idle.

The EPA tests at idle and cruise rpms. That's where we're lean from the factory.

My airbox has the flow mods and debaffled exhaust so I went with a 145 main as
a precaution. I run the top half of the tach often and extendedly.

CheapMark

This is my son, with whom I am well pleased." ----God
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post #9 of 11 Old 04-29-2016, 10:34 AM
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KLX jetting is better....


:-)
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post #10 of 11 Old 04-30-2016, 03:58 PM
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How was the install on the Yoshi? Any clearance issues or fender trimming required?
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