Newbie to the KLR... 2016, but old bike rider asks questions.. - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 22 Old 04-30-2016, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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Newbie to the KLR... 2016, but old bike rider asks questions..

Sold my 2014 650 V-Strom a couple of weeks ago... and I want to go more offroad... I heavily mod all my bikes with LED's all the good protection and bike specific mods.. Ridden all the normal bikes.. Honda. Yamaha,Suzuki, Harley, BMW etc. This is my 1st. Kawasaki,,, Like the bike.. lol.. low power.. more of a "Dirt" bike. but supposed to do what I want it to.. Quickly finding out it comes with many quirks... even the new ones.. any Directions.. Parts, comments etc. will be helpful...

Went online after much research and bought the Nomad Crash Bars... A LEXX exhaust, K&N air filter and oil filters.. The KLR Dash Kit... a Zero Gravity windshield... and my fave BMW style mirrors..... I am going to install pivot pegs and Barkbuster Storms.. A Garmin Nuvi 660 LM... and LEDs asap... I am at a quandary about the Panners and the Tail Bag etc..... Know I have to do the DooHicky mod,, and possible the ThermoBob...

Will be looking for cushy grips... and anything else you guys who know these bikes recommend... Thanks for reading...
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post #2 of 22 Old 05-02-2016, 03:07 AM
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You seem to have done good research. I like a break light that flashes a few time when first hit like the 1157 LED with that feature from Superbrightleds.com. If you go with LED turn signals which I don't think are necessary, you will need an electronic flasher and some isolating diodes from Superbrightleds for the single dash indicator.
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post #3 of 22 Old 05-02-2016, 06:32 AM
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While you're in the mood to spend some cash, get heated grips.
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“Take the risk of thinking for yourself , much more happiness , truth, beauty, and wisdom will come to you that way.” Hitchens
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post #4 of 22 Old 05-02-2016, 10:35 AM
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Offroad you say? :-)

- better tires are a must for any real offroad work; I prefer the D606 rear and MT21 front though they will be too agressive for some. ...then again, I seldom get stuck on pavement.

- sorry but ditch the K&N, it flows the worst of any filter for the KLR and has dubious filtration qualities to boot....a lose, lose scenario.

- Instead of pivot pegs, for offroad use I'd recommend either the Knight designs drop pegs or the JNS drop mounts and IMS pegs....both improve the ergonomics and open up the shifter to peg distance. You don't necessarily want your pegs moving around offroad.

- You've got the Lexx, so complete the job with a KLX jet kit from Eaglemike, a Uni-filter, snorkle-ectomy and L-mod (or 4 - 1" holes). The bike will run better, be jetted properly and have much better throttle response.

- I'd add decent bars to the list for offroad use; the stock bars are ridiculously wide, have too much pullback and are about as strong as partially cooked pasta.


Have fun,

Cheers,
Dave
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post #5 of 22 Old 05-02-2016, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the heads up.... Dammit.. Now I have to turn around and try to sell the K&N I just bought on eBay.. It will probably be up there forever... I will look for the other stuff and check them out.. I need pegs asap... and the Jet kit... And will research the snorkel ectomy mod...

Last edited by captsam54; 05-02-2016 at 11:25 AM. Reason: add on
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post #6 of 22 Old 05-02-2016, 12:04 PM
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No problem;

Here's some reading on the KLR air box testing by the late KLR guru, KLR Cary;

A lot of missunderstanding with airbox issues.

First, the screen. Airflow gains are not linear. Removing the screen with an otherwise stock KLR airbox will only gain you 2 cfm. The engine won't know the differance. However, with a heavily modified airbox, the gain from removing the screen is 8 cfm. Depending on what else is done to the engine, you may make more power. I doubt that you'll feel it, but a dyno will show it. Butt-dyno's can detect very small low rpm changes, but don't detect higher rpm changes very well at all. You'll likely not detect it, but that does not mean it's not there.

Comparing screen removal to other models is wrong, particularly with the newer sportbikes. With them, the screen often serves another purpose as well. Air distribution in a 4 cyl sportbike can be a real problem, particularly with "ram air". Removing the screen on them can cause very real losses, depending on the model. That does NOT apply to the KLR.

Same thing with air filters. There is only about 2 cfm differance from the best filter (UNI), to the worst (K&N). With a modified airbox, that differance grows to 9 cfm.

Here is the flow chart:

Completely stock - 64.8cfm
Same - Remove snorkle - 74cfm
Same - With UNI filter - 76.2cfm
Same - Remove screen - 78.6cfm
Same - Small "L" cut - 85.1cfm
Same - Large "L" cut, open snorkle area further - 92.4
Same - Remove door - 103.2

Alternate - UNI filter, No snorkle, With screen, No door, No "L" cut - 95.4

All at 2" of water, tested at 1 1/2" and 3" and averaged to 2"

To answer the larger question, how much air can the KLR really use?
....................
A stock KLR about 70-80cfm. With a good pipe about 75-90cfm. A modified motor about 90-100cfm. Having a bit more capacity than you you need will not hurt anything. The effects are not linear though. Going from 65cfm to 75cfm you will likely notice, but going from 75 to 85 cfm you likely won't.

Part of the confusion might be due to the effects of the carb shimming. Since that mod is for a stock needle, the snorkle removal serves not just to add air, but to lean out the top end. The stock KLR till 07 is rich on the top. ( The 08 has a smaller main jet.) Airbox mods have much more effect on top end mixture, so, with the stock needle it also helps straighten out the fuel curve.

Finally the airbox door. You've got to carefull there. You don't have clean air there. It's flowing past that door when riding. You can easily create a partial low pressure area there, depending on wind direction, and where you place your leg!

Cary


The take away from all that is that a stock KLR can use the improvements offered by a snorkle-ectomy at a minimum as well as an L-Mod or the 4 -1" hole equivalent. I don't recommend trying to remove the screen (PITA) or run without the door.

The KLX kit works great and you can just follow the recommendation contained therein. I find that the following works great;

- KLX needle
- 2 clip position, no washer under
- 142 main
- 2 turns on the fuel screw

You can drill the slide but I don't bother; it doesn't affect the jetting only improves throttle response - do it if you like and are comfortable with it. Other than that, be careful with the plastic enricher nut (brass ones are available from Stead Engineering) and also with the carb diaphram....if you screw it up they are cheaper from Harley than from Kawi.....

Another offroad centric mod if you plan on any tighter stuff is a 14 tooth CS sprocket.

Good luck, have fun and don't be shy with the questions.

Cheers,
Dave
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post #7 of 22 Old 05-02-2016, 01:02 PM
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No problem;


Cheers,
Dave
good info, thanks for sharing
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post #8 of 22 Old 05-04-2016, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the Great info... I need to look up the pegs etc. and get a jet kit.. I installed the LEXX yesterday and love the sound as I can here what the bike is doing now.. I already have some minor popping on decel..lol
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post #9 of 22 Old 05-04-2016, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by captsam54 View Post
Thanks for the Great info... I need to look up the pegs etc. and get a jet kit.. I installed the LEXX yesterday and love the sound as I can here what the bike is doing now.. I already have some minor popping on decel..lol
No problem.

- decel popping is a normal function of the AIS system. You can blank it off if you like (doesn't affect power or mileage). EM sells a kit.

- JNS peg lowering brackets; 1987-2016 KLR650 Foot Peg Lowering Brackets

- IMS footpegs;
IMS Products : 87-16 Kawasaki KLR650 Super Stock Footpegs

- Knight Designs Footpegs;
KD Kawasaki KLR650 11-16 Menu


....If you chose to go with CRF50 or ebay chinese pegs you can get springs (which I highly recommend if you ever ride on anything more challenging than a gravel road) at Moose Racing. Moose Racing Springs For Moose Racing Footpegs - Motorcycle Superstore


Cheers,
Dave
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post #10 of 22 Old 05-04-2016, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Dave.... Your gonna make me spend more money..lol I bought Nomad Rider Crash Bars... I am hoping they keep my plastic camo protected..
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