Bike not starting, need advice - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 05-17-2016, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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Bike not starting, need advice

Hey guys, bought my KLR 650 2010 at 3000km, it's currently got 57000km and about 2 months ago the exhaust cam seized up on the right hand bearing lobe and the gudging pin on the cam gear sheared off. Had it all fixed and assembled it on Sunday afternoon, got all the timing settings from my friend google but it does not want to start, I then swung the crank 180deg and tried that but still no start. There is fuel and spark. When it swings it eventually back fires so that tells me it does get fuel and there is pressure.

Any advice would be appreciated
Thanks
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post #2 of 7 Old 05-17-2016, 08:56 AM
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If it has fuel and spark, backfires, I would think it has to be in the timing..
Did you make sure the lower gear was in good shape?

Gordon (not a KLR expert)

"Things are made out of Stuff"
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"Singularity is a scientific term for - We Just Don't Know"
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(2011 KLR)
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post #3 of 7 Old 05-17-2016, 06:38 PM
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Certainly, I'd re-check the valve (cam) timing.

At TDC between the compression and the power stroke, ALL valves are COMPLETELY CLOSED.

With spark, combustible mixture and compression, oughta run!
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post #4 of 7 Old 09-06-2016, 12:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Normk View Post
What do you mean by "When it swings "?

By "backfires" do you mean a pop or explosion in the exhaust/intake?


How have you lined up the timing marks?

Cams should be placed with the locating pins up and the intake cam sprocket arrows parallel with the cylinder head surface. The exhaust cam should be the same excepting that the front arrow on the sprocket should be one tooth below the cylinder head surface (Eagle Mike's exhaust cam advance). The crankshaft needs to be lined up with the "T" mark at the lines in the engine side cover inspection hole.

The exhaust cam advance will make for higher compression pressure when starting so makes starting easier.

I assume that valve clearances are correct?

The KACR could be holding the right exhaust valve open too far and reducing compression. You might try spacing the weights open to see if that helps starting.

I'd be doing a compression test as that will help to indicate whether things are close.

A bad plug can act exactly like that due to a cracked center insulator so suggest trying a different spark plug.

Low compression due to flooding/washing of the oil from the piston rings and cylinder wall is a common cause of a no start, so might squirt a few cc of oil into the spark plug hole, crank the engine 5-10 turns, then install the spark plug.

I assume that you have new fuel and have drained the carb the fuel is a month or more old? Fuel goes bad and won't ignite which makes for symptoms like that.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rckno2agk...J06ZWONza?dl=0
I find what you're saying about the automatic compression release very interesting. Also about advancing the exhaust valves so what you're saying is one chain click with the arrow slightly below the surface? That sounds like a great idea. I assume this is a proven thing that people normally do without any problems correct? Because when I remove the cams to put new shims and I might try this mine has always been a bitch to start cold. I still need to pick up a service manual will it tell me in there how to adjust a centrifical weights on the compression release?

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post #5 of 7 Old 09-06-2016, 04:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Ghost Rider View Post
Also about advancing the exhaust valves so what you're saying is one chain click with the arrow slightly below the surface? That sounds like a great idea. I assume this is a proven thing that people normally do without any problems correct? Because when I remove the cams to put new shims and I might try this mine has always been a bitch to start cold.
Not exactly. Advancing the exhaust cam (and consequently subtracting 15 crankshaft degrees of overlap) plays to mixed reviews; praise is not unanimous. Some report tremendous power increase; others find no noticeable difference.

Generation 1 and Generation 2 KLR650s have different stock valve timing; advancing the exhaust cam may produce different results accordingly.

Regardless, don't think advancing the exhaust cam hurts anything; your call! You might try it and see if you get the 10 % power increase from idle to redline some report. (Shame on the Kawasaki engineers who maliciously deprived their customers of this abundant free power for the last 25 + years! )

Don't think the service manual covers adjusting the KACR; only treats whether the device works or not. Adjustment, filing (when necessary), is covered in a service bulletin, I think, not the service manual. Doubt your problem is KACR-related; my opinion only.

I think the KACR compromises a conventional compression test; a leak-down test (recommended in the service manual) gives more meaningful and consistent (bike to bike) diagnostic results, I think. Still, your call: Compression test or leak-down test.
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post #6 of 7 Old 09-08-2016, 12:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Not exactly. Advancing the exhaust cam (and consequently subtracting 15 crankshaft degrees of overlap) plays to mixed reviews; praise is not unanimous. Some report tremendous power increase; others find no noticeable difference.

Generation 1 and Generation 2 KLR650s have different stock valve timing; advancing the exhaust cam may produce different results accordingly.

Regardless, don't think advancing the exhaust cam hurts anything; your call! You might try it and see if you get the 10 % power increase from idle to redline some report. (Shame on the Kawasaki engineers who maliciously deprived their customers of this abundant free power for the last 25 + years! )

Don't think the service manual covers adjusting the KACR; only treats whether the device works or not. Adjustment, filing (when necessary), is covered in a service bulletin, I think, not the service manual. Doubt your problem is KACR-related; my opinion only.

I think the KACR compromises a conventional compression test; a leak-down test (recommended in the service manual) gives more meaningful and consistent (bike to bike) diagnostic results, I think. Still, your call: Compression test or leak-down test.
Thanks for the info. I'm not worried about more power I like the idea of easier starting. I only like to change one thing at a time when I am trying to fix something so I'm going to stick with just adjusting the shims and see how that does first. One of my intakes was extremely tight the other one was also a bit tight I'm guessing that's what caused my starting problem.

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post #7 of 7 Old 09-08-2016, 12:54 AM
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The exhaust cam advance does increase compression and helps weak engines with cold starting.

I can't recall the ACR clearance spec and need to sleep by can find it in my notes tomorrow. I may need a PM reminder. Valve clearance check/adjustment is indicated regardless.

I've done a ton of exhaust cam advance mods with only one negative review. The owner liked the increased power from his Gen2 but it seemed responsible for a decrease in fuel mileage on a several thousand mile and very fast, two up highway tour.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost Rider View Post
Thanks for the info. I'm not worried about more power I like the idea of easier starting. I only like to change one thing at a time when I am trying to fix something so I'm going to stick with just adjusting the shims and see how that does first. One of my intakes was extremely tight the other one was also a bit tight I'm guessing that's what caused my starting problem.

sent from my computer by frantically poking at the keyboard with a single finger
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