Battery Info - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 21 Old 06-09-2016, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Battery Info

I have increased compression and no KACR. Quite often, when I hit the starter button, the starter won't turn the engine and I have to bump it a time or two to move the piston, then it starts right up. If the piston stopped at the right spot it will start instantly.

My battery checks at ~12.8 volts and ~11.4 volts during a 100A load test. The battery voltage is 12.4 volts after load test. I think it's good. But hey, I only paid $16.46 for it. If it ain't good I could replace it.

The battery was installed April 10, 2014.

I haven't done a cranking voltage test because I'd have to pull the tank to disable the ignition.

The battery is equivalent to a YTX14AHL-BS and should have about 210 CCA.

Anyone know of a battery with higher CCA? Could I get a hefty Li-Ion and get the equivalent of higher CCA?

I'm pretty stupid on battery tech.

Tom

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post #2 of 21 Old 06-09-2016, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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Need some more help from someone with a Gen 2.

When I engage my kill switch, the starter doesn't operate. I don't ever use the kill switch, but I thought it just killed the ignition.

Can someone verify that, when the kill switch on a Gen 2 is engaged, the starter will still operate?

Thanks,

Tom

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post #3 of 21 Old 06-09-2016, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
I have increased compression and no KACR. Quite often, when I hit the starter button, the starter won't turn the engine and I have to bump it a time or two to move the piston, then it starts right up. If the piston stopped at the right spot it will start instantly.

My battery checks at ~12.8 volts and ~11.4 volts during a 100A load test. The battery voltage is 12.4 volts after load test. I think it's good. But hey, I only paid $16.46 for it. If it ain't good I could replace it.

The battery was installed April 10, 2014.

I haven't done a cranking voltage test because I'd have to pull the tank to disable the ignition.

The battery is equivalent to a YTX14AHL-BS and should have about 210 CCA.

Anyone know of a battery with higher CCA? Could I get a hefty Li-Ion and get the equivalent of higher CCA?

I'm pretty stupid on battery tech.

Tom
I put one of these in my 2011 KLR this spring.
I'm happy with it...
YTX14AHL Moto Classic Sealed AGM Battery Replaces Yuasa YTX14AHL-BS, YB14AL-A2

280 CCA 14 Ah Sealed AGM etc.

Ageing Gracefully



2017 Yamaha XT250
1990 Honda NX250 (Green/White)
2011 Kawasaki KLR 650 (Orange & White )

My KLR Page..http://www.powers31.info/2011_KLR650.htm

Mod's to KLR:
Power socket, L.E.D. Battery Indicator, Camera bag holder
Custom Saddlebag frames .
Louder horns, Firstgear Onyx tail bag.
Custom Aluminum Skid Plate.
Cut down seat with Custom pad.
Go Pro Camera mount.
Doo-Hicky
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post #4 of 21 Old 06-09-2016, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Larry! I may look into one of those. I wasn't sure if it was possible to get more than 210 CCA out of that battery case. Glad to hear it is. Might solve my issues.

Tom

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post #5 of 21 Old 06-09-2016, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
Need some more help from someone with a Gen 2.

When I engage my kill switch, the starter doesn't operate. I don't ever use the kill switch, but I thought it just killed the ignition.

Can someone verify that, when the kill switch on a Gen 2 is engaged, the starter will still operate?

Thanks,

Tom
With the kill switch engaged, I get nothing. Crickets.




"In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV." R. Pirsig

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post #6 of 21 Old 06-09-2016, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I'll be damned. I should have known that, but on the Gen 1 bikes I am pretty sure the engine will crank. Used to be fun to flip Mark's kill switch, just to see the annoyed look on his face.

Sure makes it hard to do a cranking test on the Gen 2s; first time I've ever tried it and my expectations were different than reality.

Thanks for checking that for me, Dan.

Tom
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post #7 of 21 Old 06-09-2016, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
Well, I'll be damned. I should have known that, but on the Gen 1 bikes I am pretty sure the engine will crank. Used to be fun to flip Mark's kill switch, just to see the annoyed look on his face.

Sure makes it hard to do a cranking test on the Gen 2s; first time I've ever tried it and my expectations were different than reality.

Thanks for checking that for me, Dan.

Tom
Tom,
Both Gen1 and Gen2 bikes "kill the ignition and the Starter" with the kill switch. (I HATE bikes like the Kawasaki "Super Sherpa 250" which only kill the ignition, therefore allowing one to crank a DEAD ignition until the battery is also DEAD!)

I do not find a Shorai lithium battery with a short enough Length with More CCA to fit the KLR stock box! If one 'eliminates' the stock plastic panel and steel retainer like is required to install the 'Odessey Dry Cell' batteries from Happy Trails, one might 'stuff' a Tucker Rocky part #423813 Shorai battery with 315 CCA into the KLR. Length 5.83", Width 3.23", Height 5.51", Weight 3.10 lbs. Price $229.95!! (Has standard location of terminals.)

My question is, currently will the starter Not Turn the load? Or does the sprag starter clutch slip? Or does the 'Anti-Back Torque' gear slip?

If it grips and then slips and repeats I would blame the sprag clutch parts.

If it slips and slips and slips and then grips, I would blame the Back-Torque limiter gear. (This when I REALLY question 'automotive oil usage?)

We have kind of had this discussion before because of combining poor cold starting KACR mod, combined with 685 kit, combined with Lower Altitude, combined with MC Mod (Ex cam advancement)!
All of which increase the Cold Cranking Compression!
(If memory serves, 156 psi at 5300 feet was causing slippage. We don't know what the PSI was in Baja, CA at sea-level!)

What is your CCC at sea-level with the 11:1 Wossner piston and NO KACR?? (I have been wondering if you might have an "issue".)

pdwestman
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post #8 of 21 Old 06-09-2016, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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Paul,

The relay chatters and it seems that the starter motor is bumping the piton through TDC. It usually takes a couple of hits of the starter button and then it fires right off.

I'm getting curious enough that the next time it does it I'm going to pop the inspection plug and see if it really is at just BTDC.

No issues with the sprag or the torque limiter gears.

I haven't done a CCC with it yet.

I could have sworn we used to flip mark's kill switch and he'd hit the starter a few times before realizing the kill switch was on. Oh, well.

310 CCA sounds good, but $230 doesn't. I'm going to look at it, though.

Thanks!

Tom

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“She went out slowly. The way she did it hadn’t been learned at business college.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


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post #9 of 21 Old 06-10-2016, 09:40 AM
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I'm no battery expert either but my LiFePo's spin the engine faster/harder than the stock lead acid batteries did; and MAY help in your situation.....reserve capacity is less though, so you don't want to sit there and crank for a long time. I suspect that reading the ratings is a bit "apples and oranges" for comparing lead acid to LiFePo.

Wish you were closer, we could just try one of mine and see.....but if I were a betting man...


Dave
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post #10 of 21 Old 06-10-2016, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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Aw, c'mon, Dave! It's not far, it'll be fun!

I do remember reading about the apples and organes thing, which made me think I might be able to get a much more powerful battery in the Li-Fe-Po.

Tom

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“She went out slowly. The way she did it hadn’t been learned at business college.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


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