Valve Adjust and MC Mod - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 12 Old 06-12-2016, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
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Valve Adjust and MC Mod

I'm doing Valve adjustment and MC Mod.

My motorcycle is 2016 model and it has only 3600 miles on it .
I decided to.check valve spec and do MC Mod.

I found out both my exhaust valves were too tight (.102mm)
I took all the readings and then I tried to open
Cam chain tensioner. I could only open the centre 12mm bolt with spring and washer. One of the two small 10mm is not opening ..there seems to be no.place for ratchet to get in.

So my question is : do I need to open the whole tensioner body or just removing the centre bolt is ok?

I already advanced the exhaust sprocket by one tooth.


Thanks
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post #2 of 12 Old 06-12-2016, 10:59 AM
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You need to get the whole tensioner out in order to insure that yo get the proper tesnion back on the chain.

The center portion of the tensioner has a one-way ratcheting adjustment rack in it. The spring that you removed only serves to push that rack into the chain as the chain needs slack taken up.

Found on flickriver, photo credit to some Aussie.

As you were moving the cams about you might have slackened the chain and allowed the ratchet to move out a bit. Reassembling it may cause the chain to be over-tensioned if you don't reset the rack.

I have this tool; it's sole purpose in my life is to take that stupid bolt out.


It is a low-profile 10mm swivel socket, a hard item to find on a Sunday afternoon. You may find that you can get a 10mm standard socket and a swivel joint to work.

Tom

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“She went out slowly. The way she did it hadn’t been learned at business college.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 06-12-2016 at 11:11 AM.
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post #3 of 12 Old 06-12-2016, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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I ****ed up big time!

I was using torque wrench to tighten exhaust cam bolts. I have ft lbs so i converted specified reading for cam bolts 104 in lbs to 8.6 ft lbs. While I was tightening I broke bottom right bolt. Half of the bolt is inside now!! Also I removed rest of the exhaust cam bolts and realised all of them were almost broken! so took them all out but this bottom right one has half one inside! how do i remove it now?
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post #4 of 12 Old 06-12-2016, 12:02 PM
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That's gonna be tough, as the frame is a bit in the way.

The good news is that the remaining piece that is stuck in the head is likely fairly loose.

If there is anything you can grab on to you may be able to turn it out.

If not, you're going to have to drill a hole in the bolt and use an easy-out. A left hand drill bit may spin the bolt out while drilling; you won't know until you try it.

At any rate, I's likely you're going to have to shift the motor so that you can get a clear shot at the broken bit. Trying to come in sideways at it will likely **** something you can't un-****.

You'll need to decide if removing the head is more or less desirable than pulling the engine. Unfortunately, I'm not sure that extracting the broken bolt can be done without doing one or the other, unless there is a bit of bolt protruding.

Hopefully somebody else will come along with better ideas and suggestions.

Tom
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“She went out slowly. The way she did it hadn’t been learned at business college.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 06-12-2016 at 12:11 PM.
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post #5 of 12 Old 06-12-2016, 01:39 PM
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I got nothing to add except, try not to get frustrated. It just makes it harder. Good luck.



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"In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV." R. Pirsig

PPMC #1.
Soon, we ride.

AKA JD Mader or you can call me "Dan" just not early for dinner.

Click my handle for a link to my homepage/blog...which has nothing to do with MCs. Free literature and music! Viva La Revolucion!
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post #6 of 12 Old 06-12-2016, 11:03 PM
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Have had some luck with a small strong magnet to back out broken bolt far enough to get a hold of.
Good Luck
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post #7 of 12 Old 06-13-2016, 02:39 AM
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Removing the surviving bolt and cam cap, how much bolt length protrudes from the head? One would hope enough for a vise-grip bite or maybe cutting a flat-blade screwdriver bit.

Disclaimer: Conjecture/speculation on my part; concepts may be impracticable/stupid.
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post #8 of 12 Old 06-13-2016, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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I was able to remove the broken piece using a tweezer!!

I also bought M 6 X 40 mm bolts and replaced all for exhaust cam bolts because i kind of messed all of them. They are NOT flanged head but they look fined and fit perfectly.

Also to reset the cam chain bolt I pressed the little button and inserted the arm inside the assembly and assembled the tensioner with spring and bolts

Last edited by lonsomecrow; 06-13-2016 at 12:43 PM.
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post #9 of 12 Old 06-15-2016, 04:50 PM
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Hey man,how about an update on the mc mod. Glad the bolt came out for you,could have been bad. Thanks
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post #10 of 12 Old 06-15-2016, 09:45 PM
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lonsomecrow and everyone else,
A 'boxed-end' wrench is all you need to tend to the cam chain tensioner, just "snug"! They aren't going anywhere!

As to the twisted off / almost twisted off cam bearing cap bolts, get the original equipment or at least flanged / shouldered bolts!

And by any means, Purchase a proper 1/4" drive 50-200 INCH pound torque wrench!

Doo-Hickey lock bolt, 69-80 INCH POUNDS for instance!

Bigger bolts one can 'quess-at', it is the little ones that get you in trouble.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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