Possible chain replacement - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 07-19-2016, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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Possible chain replacement

Good evening,

A few weeks ago I did my first chain adjustment, tightening it up. Yesterday I noticed the chain was way loose, so I adjusted again this evening. After riding a bit I checked and it seemed to loosen up already again. Should I assume it's in need of replacement?

2008 with 13k miles. Since I'm not the first owner, I'll assume it's probably the original chain.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks
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post #2 of 8 Old 07-19-2016, 10:56 PM
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I bet if you rotate the wheel and check, the chain is loose in some spots, tight in others... replace the chain.

"Things are made out of Stuff"
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"Singularity is a scientific term for - We Just Don't Know"
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post #3 of 8 Old 07-19-2016, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brentagade View Post
Good evening,

A few weeks ago I did my first chain adjustment, tightening it up. Yesterday I noticed the chain was way loose, so I adjusted again this evening. After riding a bit I checked and it seemed to loosen up already again. Should I assume it's in need of replacement?

2008 with 13k miles. Since I'm not the first owner, I'll assume it's probably the original chain.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks
I'll bet your drive chain was not as loose as you thought!
Most 'New' owners are prone to Over-Tighten the drive chain.
It Must be left 'Loose Enough' for the suspension to swing thru its arc!
So, loose Enough to push UP and Touch the rear tip of the swingarm rubber chain slider!!!
If it can't almost touch the rubber chain slider from underneath, IT IS too TIGHT!
It will 'wear quickly and get looser'!
Better to 'error' on the loose side of things in this instance!
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post #4 of 8 Old 07-20-2016, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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Gotha. That's what I went with the first time. I watched a few videos and made sure it touched that rubber piece. The other day though I could make the chain touch the entire under side of the swing arm so figured that was a bit excess. I understand there should be play in it for the flex. It just developed more play over a short time if that makes sense.

Which leads me into another question. If I have to replace my chain, it seems like it would be a good time to swap out the sprocket(s) too. I want to go with a 16 tooth since I do a lot of road riding. Is there a need to get a bigger chain? Or is that only with replacing both sprockets?

Thanks
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post #5 of 8 Old 07-20-2016, 09:33 PM
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A chain at 13,000 miles should not be worn out IF it's been maintained. Since you are not the original owner you have no way of knowing that. Sounds like a replacement may be necessary.

It's always a good idea to change the sprockets, front and rear, when changing a chain and vice versa. If you don't you'll just wear the chain out faster as it tries to wear in to your worn sprockets.

A standard length chain works just fine with a 16 tooth sprocket.


Rocky Mountain ATV sells a good set up. You'll need to order the 16 toother seperately.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...g-Chain?v=6932

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Last edited by klr4evr; 07-20-2016 at 09:37 PM.
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post #6 of 8 Old 07-20-2016, 09:33 PM
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Just for reference material, does the old chain show 'Red Rust Dust' on the outside circumference of the 'o'-rings? If so, that is an indication that the grease inside the pin and bushing which is "sealed in" with the 'o'-ring is Worn-Out! Therefore, frequent adjustment required and accelerated sprocket wear.

I'll suggest that one should usually replace the Front sprocket with a New Chain. The rear sprocket has 3 times as many teeth as the front so the wear rate is different.

The standard 106 link chain length is correct with a 16 tooth front sprocket.

pdwestman
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post #7 of 8 Old 07-20-2016, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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I don't know about rust dust, but there is definitely dust with a red tint on the chain and front sprocket.

Also, I don't see myself doing as much trail riding down here like I did in Idaho, so my goal is more pavement-worthy. Does anyone switch out the back sprocket too to match the front; to drop the rpms?
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post #8 of 8 Old 07-21-2016, 12:19 AM
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I did the change both front and rear.

Yes, when the new chain went on at 18,000 miles. (The old one was fine until
failure when some links got twisted in a jam up when it caught a rock or whatever)
I have 15-17 fronts, and a 42 plus the stock 43 rear. The 17 was too tall and I
landed on the 16/42 setup and love it. Stock length chain of course with 15/43 being
stock.
I do a few trails and quite a few dirt or gravel roads and the gearing is great.
The only issue is needing a lot of clutch in the tight and gnarly stuff which
neither of the two of us rides anymore. Did today but it's rare. First two gears
rip in the dirt and I can kick the back end around just fine on the hardpack two-track
roads.

On the highway it's a dream. Nice low rpms but it calls for a downshift to pass
in a reasonable amount of time.

There's Marks review. Just one guys opinion.

This is my son, with whom I am well pleased." ----God
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