Rim lock dos and don'ts. - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 26 Old 07-26-2016, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Rim lock dos and don'ts.

Hey, folks.

I'm closing on my dealer hold over 2015 tomorrow after work.

As part of the package, I'm getting some dealer work performed at a reduced rate.

So far, they are installing heated grips and mounting my Bark Busters.

While it's in the shop, I was thinking about having them drill holes and mount a rim locks on the front and back.

I understand that they are typically mounted 180 degrees opposite the valve stem. Balancing the wheel will also be required. One also has to be mindful to mount the rim lock in a location such that best affords wrench access later.

With the rim locks, I will be able run at a lower pressure off road with reduced risk of breaking the bead and pinching or "spinning" my tube. There may also be an additional margin of safety for sudden on road flats, or so I read.

The only downsides that I can find are that roadside flat repairs have a slight bump in difficulty and, more importantly, incorrectly balanced tires will create wobbling or vibration at high speeds.

Is that about the gist of it?

Am I missing anything else? Anything to check for?

Last edited by subvetssn; 07-26-2016 at 08:07 PM.
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post #2 of 26 Old 07-27-2016, 05:59 AM
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Your bike, but unless you plan on running less than 15 psi, I think rim locks may be an elegant solution to a non-existent problem on a KLR650. The typical KLR650 isn't likely to spin tires at 15 psi inflation and above, from my experience and observation on the Shenandoah 500 dual-sport ride and others.

YMMV; and again: Your bike!
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post #3 of 26 Old 07-27-2016, 06:22 AM
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I have had a problem with a very Slooow leak in my ft. tire since new.. Did the soap/bubble test.. nothing.. changed the valve core.. still have a very slow leak.. If I air it up to 27 lbs and ride it all day fine.. but if I leave it sitting for 3 days it will be down to 14 psi etc.. Well one day I was riding in the beginning of the tire problem and got home and my pressure was 5 lbs.... So the moral of the story is the bead won't break at a very low pressure and even at highway speeds..
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2016 Digital Camo KLR Eagle Mikes Drill thru bolts, Thermobob, KLX kit, airbox opened, LED quickflash tail light, LED headlights and dash lights, Nomad Rider Crash Bars, Garmin 640 GPS, KLR Dash, ZG Windshield. 2" Rox risers, Tusk Hand Guards, Shoria Batt, Outback Motorack skid plate.
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post #4 of 26 Old 07-27-2016, 06:40 AM
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I agree with Damocles. Bead locks do have a purpose on truly off-road motorcycles, not so much as one moves into the adventure class of motorcycles. Personally, don't have rim locks on my 2016 and I run in a lot of sand and mud at pressures 15-18 with big block knobbies (Conti TKC80 Twinduros). So far, three dual sport rallys later, I haven't lost a bead...knock on wood.

If I ever did go the route of rim locks, though, I probably wouldn't put one on the front.

As for other stuff, I appreciate that dealers are supposed to check everything, but I'd recommend checking for loose nuts, bolts and weird stuff just the same. I have found loose bolts on new bikes. Specifically on my KLR, I took delivery with different tires and the rear rubbed on the muffler.

Take a peek at the air filter. Mine was dry as a bone when I took delivery. Double check the chain tension as I've read most are delivered far too tight on the tension.

Good luck.
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post #5 of 26 Old 07-27-2016, 07:41 AM
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If you like having the dealer install stuff then I would suggest crash bars and a skid plate.
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post #6 of 26 Old 07-27-2016, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Back2Kawi View Post
If you like having the dealer install stuff then I would suggest crash bars and a skid plate.
+ 1!

Certainly, in priority over rim locks. Might throw in hand guards, too (mostly, to protect levers).

But . . . as stated, HIS bike!
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post #7 of 26 Old 07-27-2016, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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Crash bars and skid plate are arriving today along with the Barkbusters.

Funny, I was rethinking the rim locks before I even checked back here. As suggested above, they are a solution looking for a problem in my case, as I don't air down my tires.

I'll just have them mount the crash guard, instead.

While they're in there, double check the air filter as well.

Thanks!

Last edited by subvetssn; 07-27-2016 at 08:23 AM.
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post #8 of 26 Old 07-27-2016, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subvetssn View Post
Crash bars and skid plate are arriving today along with the Barkbusters.

Funny, I was rethinking the rim locks before I even checked back here. As suggested above, they are a solution looking for a problem in my case, as I don't air down my tires.

I'll just have them mount the crash guard, instead.

While they're in there, double check the air filter as well.

Thanks!
Upon getting mine, the speedo cable was routed outside the fender guard, I was missing a bolt under the front fender, stock tire rubs the chain guard, missing a rear reflector, and coolant spills as the cap wasn't on correctly. Some also state that the chain is way too tight. Oh yeah, and the headlight points at the trees. Ridiculously too high. While closing the deal I would try to get the KLR tail bag. I can't say enough about that bag.
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post #9 of 26 Old 07-27-2016, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Your bike, but unless you plan on running less than 15 psi, I think rim locks may be an elegant solution to a non-existent problem on a KLR650. The typical KLR650 isn't likely to spin tires at 15 psi inflation and above, from my experience and observation on the Shenandoah 500 dual-sport ride and others.

YMMV; and again: Your bike!
Agreed....and I'd add that due to the weight of the KLR I'd strongly recommend running at LEAST 15 PSI and usually closer to 20. At 18 - 22, the need for a rim lock is fairly low IMO.

I needed the rim locks on my race bike but I'd run the fronts at 12 - 14 PSI and the rear at 10 - 12 PSI.

Dave
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post #10 of 26 Old 07-28-2016, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subvetssn View Post
Hey, folks.

While it's in the shop, I was thinking about having them drill holes and mount a rim locks on the front and back.

I understand that they are typically mounted 180 degrees opposite the valve stem. Balancing the wheel will also be required. One also has to be mindful to mount the rim lock in a location such that best affords wrench access later.
I'll give another vote Against rim locks on the KLR.

And comment that if one drills 180 degrees from the valve stem the security bolt will be Exactly Between the Narrow Angled spokes instead of a Wide Angled pair.
Take notice that most Dirt Bike security bolts are just 4 spokes away from the valve stem for ease of dis-mount/re-mount. It really doesn't require much more wheel weight either.
I used to balance my KX500 wheels. Especially when running Ice Tires.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

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