Electrical trouble - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 10 Old 07-29-2016, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Electrical trouble

I have a klr 650 2008 that is running into some electrical issues . I was out riding it on some local jeep trails for a few hours and when I hopped on the interstate to shoot back home the tachometer started to swing back and forth from 1 rpm to 10 rpm when the bike was obviously not changing rpm's . It stopped in a few seconds so i drove on and hopped that it meant nothing. When i got into town the first stop sign i hit the bike was running rough and could hardly pull away from the stop sign. I coaxed her into a parking lot and turned it off to start diagnosing. When I tried to turn it back on I got nothing no headlights no neutral nothing. after fidgeting for a while I eventually got the neutral light to come on heard a click and then nothing. I bump started it and it ran very rough but made it home. I took the battery out and checked that and its fully charged. I looked through the fuses and they all seem fine. Battery connections are fine looking. Anyone with any ideas of what could cause a tachometer to go haywire as well as cut all power? the lights done come on the motor doesn't try to turn over literally nothing happens with the key is turned.
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post #2 of 10 Old 07-29-2016, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeyrob456 View Post
I have a klr 650 2008 that is running into some electrical issues . I was out riding it on some local jeep trails for a few hours and when I hopped on the interstate to shoot back home the tachometer started to swing back and forth from 1 rpm to 10 rpm when the bike was obviously not changing rpm's . It stopped in a few seconds so i drove on and hopped that it meant nothing. When i got into town the first stop sign i hit the bike was running rough and could hardly pull away from the stop sign. I coaxed her into a parking lot and turned it off to start diagnosing.-------------------------------------------------- the lights done come on the motor doesn't try to turn over literally nothing happens with the key is turned.
mikeyrob,
I don't intend to be a smart ass, but!

Your final sentence needs some interpretation. "Not even a neutral light"!
Check the Main Fuse! Behind the 'long black plastic panel' under the fuel valve, ON Top of the starter solenoid. Squeeze the 'triggers' on the sides of the RED Plastic connector to release the connector. Spare fuse is tucked UNDER the starter solenoid.
If it 'blows' nearly immediately, you have wiring 'rub-thru', (shorting) issues.

Check the area between the fuel tank and the coolant recovery reservoir, 1st!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #3 of 10 Old 07-30-2016, 02:49 AM
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My '09 did it.

There was a recall on our years' wiring harness due to rubbing.

There's two places to address, and one was mentioned by Brudder Paul
up front, and mine cooked under the tank along the frame rail.

My failure was almost immediate. Stuff got weird and died and then
the engine a minute later when the fuse blew.

Sucks that it happened at all as two zip ties are the factory fix. Just trace down
the cooked piece of harness wrap (elec tape) and replace each bad piece that has fused
with a new section of wire with watertight connections. Ride as normal.

If, indeed this is your issue. Have a look and see what's obvious under there first.
Edit: There's also complete wiring harnesses available aftermarket/online.

Hope it's Cheap n' simple,
Mark

This is my son, with whom I am well pleased." ----God

Last edited by CheapBassTurd; 07-30-2016 at 02:52 AM. Reason: I wished to edit this post.
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post #4 of 10 Old 07-30-2016, 09:24 AM
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Good info Cheap,

I noticed when i put my usb port in that some of the wires were being rubbed, didn't thing anything of it. No ill effects yet, now i will be looking into fixing that problem.

OP- I hope this is all it is, Please keep us informed, there maybe other noobs like me that may have this problem or has seen some rubbing on wires.
Jon
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post #5 of 10 Old 07-30-2016, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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pdwestman
sorry for the horrible grammar on the original post hopefully this one doesn't follow suite, and I replaced the yellow 20 fuse even though the original looked fine and unfortunately nothing changed.

CheapBassTurd
I checked for the rubbing on the front of the tank by the coolant reservoir but haven't checked under the tank ! You said that you "cooked" yours which makes me think this may be my problem. I was out riding pretty hard on the trails and even though the bike was nowhere close to overheating it was running much hotter than it would have on say a freeway ride. This makes me think that with the rough riding causing rubbing and the hot conditions this could be my problem. Its raining here in Arizona and I'm stuck working outside so once the rain lets off ill pull the tank and see what it looks like.

Thank you for all the replies I'll post with what I find.
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post #6 of 10 Old 08-04-2016, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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finally got around to pulling the tank off today and everything under there seems to be fine. There is no clear wear spots under the tank and everything seems to be connected tight and looking good. When I turn the key I'm still getting nothing at all to happen.
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post #7 of 10 Old 08-04-2016, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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I am assuming that if the wiring harness cooked in any spots the electrical tape would be disfigured or discolored right ? I did another inspection of the harness as it wraps under the tank and it does indeed look fine. I'm starting to think now that somehow juice isn't getting from the battery to the spark plug or maybe that the ignition switch is shot . Does anyone out there to understands electrical think that sounds right ?
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post #8 of 10 Old 08-04-2016, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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another update that will hopefully help someone who knows electrical diagnose this. When I check the battery with a voltage meter it shows its a fine fully charged battery but they if i put the key in and turn it to on and check the batter again it barley shows one volt. I dont know if this is what should happen or does this indicate a short in the system of some kind?
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post #9 of 10 Old 08-04-2016, 09:13 PM
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Mikey,

Mine was behind the petcock and yes, the wrapping tape was quite disfigured.

Sounds like a single wire or two, or a switch grounding out draining the battery
when the key is turned. I'm not much of an electrical guy.

We need more help over here, fellas.

This is my son, with whom I am well pleased." ----God
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post #10 of 10 Old 08-04-2016, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeyrob456 View Post
another update that will hopefully help someone who knows electrical diagnose this. When I check the battery with a voltage meter it shows its a fine fully charged battery but they if i put the key in and turn it to on and check the batter again it barley shows one volt. I dont know if this is what should happen or does this indicate a short in the system of some kind?
If you are measuring at the battery terminals, it indicates a bad battery. A short would burn a fuse in a flash.

Try jumper cables to a car battery or take the battery to an auto parts store for "load" testing.
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