Engine / Crash bars - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 12-04-2016, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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Engine / Crash bars

Ok I've read most of the older posts and also a lot of reviews on Engine Bars. From my research SW Motech look to be the preferred one to go with and I do like the way they look on the bike plus the seam to be very durable in a drop/crash.
I've also looked a Givi, Happy Trail and a few others but then I found these from T-Rex Racing and really like the way they cover the bottom of the bike/engine. Well at least in the pics of them on the bike. The pics of them that just show the bars against a white back ground looks different then the pics of them on the bike. I've sent a message to T-Rex but should not get a response till the next day or two but has anyone here used them or have seen them in person that can verify what they really look like.
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post #2 of 12 Old 01-07-2017, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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T-Rex bars review

I've had the T-Rex Engine bars on for a couple weeks now and have put a few miles on the bike with them on. Here are my thoughts and observations.
First they came packed very well, each bar was wrapped in protective foam wrapping and zip tied to hold it in place. The finish and welds all looked to be of high quality workmanship. The black powder coating was also high quality. The install was fairly easy and took between 2 1/2 and 3 hours to complete. The hardware was all grade 8 bolts with aluminum spacer which were also powder coated. The only hiccup in the install was the need to drill out 2 of the 3 front mounting bolt (front engine mount) holes a little bigger to get everything lined up properly. Also the provided bolts that join the 2 lower side bars together in front of the bike had very large heads and washers that looked like they would easily get snagged on things so I replaced them with bolts with smaller heads for a lower profile. The lower bars attach to the frame in front of the foot pegs so I feel no extra vibrations through the pegs like others have mentioned with bars that mount to the foot pegs. The 4 aluminum "slider" plates are removable/replaceable in the event of a lay down and cost a fraction of the cost to replace the whole bars. Hopefully I'll never have to test that theory.

All In all I'm very pleased with the fit and Finish plus the over all looks of the T-Rex bars. At this time I'll give them 9 out of 10 stars and after my first time I need to use them I'll reevaluate my opinion.






Last edited by StevieS; 07-08-2017 at 01:57 PM.
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-27-2017, 11:35 PM
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How much vibration do you get from them? My Nomad Rider crash bars vibrate quite bad around 4600 rpm (so bad that the right hand side bar broke, I'm thinking due to metal fatigue) it was replaced with a new bar free from the manufacturer.

Oh, I see that you have the "other" bike I want a BMW K1600 GTL.. how do you like it?
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post #4 of 12 Old 01-28-2017, 05:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dundonrl View Post
How much vibration do you get from them? My Nomad Rider crash bars vibrate quite bad around 4600 rpm (so bad that the right hand side bar broke, I'm thinking due to metal fatigue) it was replaced with a new bar free from the manufacturer.

Oh, I see that you have the "other" bike I want a BMW K1600 GTL.. how do you like it?
I've not noticed any more vibration then the thumper already produces. With the lower mounts attaching to the frame and not the foot pegs there is no vibrations from the pegs either.

Now the BMW K1600GTL is my favorite mile eater I've ever had. I was one of the early buyers, in fact I was number 32 on the nation wide presale list in 2010. I have the 2nd bike sold in Texas and the first sold in Austin. The only way I would sell it would be to get a newer one.
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post #5 of 12 Old 01-28-2017, 08:33 AM
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Not to knock the product; no experience whatever with the scheme.

Just a question: Is the armor vulnerable to the, "perfect storm," an angled rock whose corners or points might penetrate the perimeter of the tubes?

Perhaps an unlikely event; maybe pre-solved by the geometry of the tube manufacture by Nomad Rider.
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post #6 of 12 Old 01-28-2017, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Not to knock the product; no experience whatever with the scheme.

Just a question: Is the armor vulnerable to the, "perfect storm," an angled rock whose corners or points might penetrate the perimeter of the tubes?

Perhaps an unlikely event; maybe pre-solved by the geometry of the tube manufacture by Nomad Rider.
Damocles,
The bars pictured are by T-Rex apparently, not Nomad Rider.

But I do wonder if the lower rear mounting clamps reduce ground clearance by maybe 3/4"? And therefore create a snag point?

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post #7 of 12 Old 01-28-2017, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Damocles,
The bars pictured are by T-Rex apparently, not Nomad Rider.

But I do wonder if the lower rear mounting clamps reduce ground clearance by maybe 3/4"? And therefore create a snag point?
The lower mount hangs down about the same distance as the foot peg mounting brackets do.
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post #8 of 12 Old 01-31-2017, 04:36 PM
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Question Questions about T-Rex?

[QUOTE=StevieS;563418]I've had the T-Rex Engine bars on for a couple weeks now and have put a few miles on the bike with them on. Here are my thoughts and observations.
First they came packed very well, each bar was wrapped in protective foam wrapping and zip tied to hold it in place. The finish and welds all looked to be of high quality workmanship. The black powder coating was also high quality. The install was fairly easy and took between 2 1/2 and 3 hours to complete. The hardware was all grade 8 bolts with aluminum spacer which were also powder coated. The only hiccup in the install was the need to drill out 2 of the 3 front mounting bolt (front engine mount) holes a little bigger to get everything lined up properly. Also the provided bolts that join the 2 lower side bars together in front of the bike had very large heads and washers that looked like they would easily get snagged on things so I replaced them with bolts with smaller heads for a lower profile. The lower bars attach to the frame in front of the foot pegs so I feel no extra vibrations through the pegs like others have mentioned with bars that mount to the foot pegs. The 4 aluminum "slider" plates are removable/replaceable in the event of a lay down and cost a fraction of the cost to replace the whole bars. Hopefully I'll never have to test that theory.

All In all I'm very pleased with the fit and Finish plus the over all looks of the T-Rex bars. At this time I'll give them 9 out of 10 stars and after my first time I need to use them I'll reevaluate my opinion.

Thanks for sharing this review as I am in the process of doing research as to all the crash bar options that are available for my '11 KLR.
I do have a couple of questions that you may be able to answer for me.
The first is that you mention the option of being able to replace the aluminum sliders if need be in the unfortunate event of taking a spill. I have not been able to successfully locate those aluminum sliders as being offered for purchase on the T-Rex website have you?
Also the one engine front mounting bolt hole that had to be drilled out larger by you.
Do you think that this is to be expected for all installs regardless or is it just isolated to your experience and do you feel that in doing so the integrity of the mounting point has been damaged in any way?
Thanks for your help with this, I appreciate it.


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post #9 of 12 Old 02-01-2017, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Rangerman View Post

Thanks for sharing this review as I am in the process of doing research as to all the crash bar options that are available for my '11 KLR.
I do have a couple of questions that you may be able to answer for me.
The first is that you mention the option of being able to replace the aluminum sliders if need be in the unfortunate event of taking a spill. I have not been able to successfully locate those aluminum sliders as being offered for purchase on the T-Rex website have you?
Also the one engine front mounting bolt hole that had to be drilled out larger by you.
Do you think that this is to be expected for all installs regardless or is it just isolated to your experience and do you feel that in doing so the integrity of the mounting point has been damaged in any way?
Thanks for your help with this, I appreciate it.


Rangerman
I called T-Rex about the sliders and they have them as replacements but are not listed on the web site yet. I think he said about 20 bucks each. These guards have only be out on the marker a few months.
I hope the hole being off was just a flick on my set, as for the integrity of drilling out the hole goes, I'm not concerned at all as I only drilled the hole one size larger on my step drill bit. There is plenty of metal left on the mounting point.
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post #10 of 12 Old 02-01-2017, 03:29 PM
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Thumbs up Appreciate your input...

Quote:
Originally Posted by StevieS View Post
I called T-Rex about the sliders and they have them as replacements but are not listed on the web site yet. I think he said about 20 bucks each. These guards have only be out on the marker a few months.
I hope the hole being off was just a flick on my set, as for the integrity of drilling out the hole goes, I'm not concerned at all as I only drilled the hole one size larger on my step drill bit. There is plenty of metal left on the mounting point.
Thanks for taking the time to respond to my questions.
I am leaning toward giving these crash bars a try. I am impressed with their appearance and design along with your own satisfied experience thus far. I also like the fact that they are made here in the states, by hand.
The cost is reasonable compared to the other offerings as well.


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