Getting to know my 01 650... - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 13 Old 12-25-2016, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Getting to know my 01 650...

Now that I have my bike home, Ive been spending a bit of time getting to know the bike, at least how it works. So far, Ive found that it needs pads front and rear soon, the rear brake pedal lever bushing is history, and when I cold start this thing, she blows enough blue smoke to cloud out my 20x36 shop inside of a minute. Ive also found the engine oil drain plug hole has been badly stripped - for now, i put a thickened washer and heavy teflon tape onto the bolt, as I want to run this thing see how it behaves. A few surprises of course...

For one, this muffler is really... 'tweety' at idle. Very high pitched shrill tweet. Hate the sound of it - any fix aside of another muffler?

Second, the idle changes in relation to the position of the handle bars - turning it one way raises idle; the other way lowers it. Im assuming a stiffened up throttle cable?

Third, at low idle, the crankcase area sounds 'rough'. Rougher than Id expect. I did give it fresh oil and filter (Straight from Kawasaki, the old filter looked suspiciously clean) Which has helped but...

Fourth, and I think this is the killer - I can clearly see this thing has been laid down, more than once. Looks like she took a hit to the left side front cowl, pretty bent, had to do some straightening to get the cowls back on and lined up. If this thing ran any length of time on its side, well it could account for issues.

Overall, for a 1500$ bike, Im not hugely concerned. That said, I intend to drive this thing this summer, if she dies, well, Im an auto mechanic, I 'should' be able to handle a bike overhaul right? As it is, she runs, all gears work, I have done laps in the yard, albeit slow, and the engine seems to run smoother each time i fire it up.
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post #2 of 13 Old 12-26-2016, 01:15 AM
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Adjusted balancer chain tension?
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post #3 of 13 Old 12-26-2016, 06:06 AM
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Go to the dealer and trade it. You only go around once. Go get a new one and stick it on payments if you have to. If you work on cars then working on engines is for paying the bills. The bike is for riding. Sounds like you're going to have to put more cash and effort into it than it's worth. A few more flat rate hours and you can have a new one. Make some old Ford or junk Chevy buy it for you. One more timing belt a month and it's yours.

“Take the risk of thinking for yourself , much more happiness , truth, beauty, and wisdom will come to you that way.” Hitchens
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post #4 of 13 Old 12-26-2016, 11:20 AM
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more tweety reading; http://www.klrforum.com/1987-2007-wr...weety-mod.html

good luck getting the bike sorted. A couple additional thoughts;

- the changing idle is a common problem....maybe a throttle cable but just as likely the enricher cable.

- noises are hard to diagnose; check the counterbalance system, particularly the lever and spring.....if they haven't been upgraded they are probably broken. Eaglemike for the replacement good stuff

- I've crashed many bikes, literally hundreds of times, a laydown probably isn't responsible for engine damage. Low oil level is a different story....

- Oversized drain plug or a timesert are the easiest fixes for the drain plug.....very common problem.


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post #5 of 13 Old 12-26-2016, 12:24 PM
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Check for cracking around the drain plug boss.
Which is caused by accidentally omitting the Thick drain plug gasket on some aftermarket drain plugs. (In-complete threads)

Standard drain plug size is 12mm x 1.5mm pitch. So tap it to 14mm x 1.5mm pitch. Then I just recommend using an automotive drain plug, instead of installing a Heli-Coil. But one still can, the taps are identical.

As Dave suggested, a few seconds or possibly even a minute of run-time Laying on its side, of a KLR650 probably causes No damage. They usually 'flood-out' and die fairly quickly. If my '87 hasn't been down at least once per year, every year, it's never been Down. 78,000+ miles and counting.

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post #6 of 13 Old 12-26-2016, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toney View Post
Go to the dealer and trade it.
Toney,
Why do you even suggest that a competent automotive mechanic, 'pawn-off' a mechanics special KLR onto an unsuspecting dealer or another private individual?
Working on something different is part of the reason we purchase a mechanics special.

If I can replace a broken 5th gear on a manual trans '88 Ford Ranger, I'm sure he can tend to a KLR's every need.

pdwestman
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post #7 of 13 Old 12-26-2016, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Toney,
Why do you even suggest that a competent automotive mechanic, 'pawn-off' a mechanics special KLR onto an unsuspecting dealer or another private individual?
Working on something different is part of the reason we purchase a mechanics special.

If I can replace a broken 5th gear on a manual trans '88 Ford Ranger, I'm sure he can tend to a KLR's every need.
Ha, I actually see both sides of this point - On the one hand, yea, I can't see my skill set being a problem. On the other hand, Ive been 'back home with the family' for hardly a week and most of what Ive done is wrench yank, Sooo there is the want of 'i dont even want to look at the bloody thing right now.'

Thanx though everyone for the comments. That whole 'doohicky' thing has me curious, at the very least, and it does look as tho inspecting it is not a huge hassle.
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post #8 of 13 Old 12-26-2016, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by JustinInYT View Post
Ha, I actually see both sides of this point -

Thanx though everyone for the comments. That whole 'doohicky' thing has me curious, at the very least, and it does look as tho inspecting it is not a huge hassle.
Tom Schmitz has several Doo-Hickey videos to go along with this one,
http://www.klrforum.com/2008-klr650-...ng-spring.html

There are a couple of differences between 87-07 models and the 08 and ups. And I'm pretty certain I remember that one of his 3 or 4 Doo-Hickey vids will cover those differences.

ps, Maybe you have already found Tom's vids here? http://www.klrforum.com/560738-post8.html

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

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Last edited by pdwestman; 12-26-2016 at 07:26 PM. Reason: Added another link.
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post #9 of 13 Old 12-26-2016, 07:36 PM
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Here are the videos on the doohickey identification:

Watch from about 1:00 to about 4:00 in this video :

then watch from 7:30 to 8:00 in this video:
.

Or watch the whole series http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list...LQ4YUkV6CCFOUl

There have been roughly three generations of the adjustment lever. The first was a stamped steel affair that was probably pretty good if adjusted per the book by a decent mechanic. The second generation is a two-piece affair that is a bit of plate steel welded to a piece cobbled out of bar stock. There might have been a couple of versions of this particular design; not sure. I think these things fell apart not only due to ham-fisted mechanics, but they also broke at the weld due to the vibration from the poor fit on the shaft. Your bike has one of these levers. The third lever is an investment cast piece that is decently robust, but still fits the shaft very poorly.

The aftermarket lever is made from billet stock and fits the lever exceptionally well. The torsion spring makes for a once-and-done scenario.

The same wingnut that did the videos above has this video on what the adjustment lever is all about.

Tom

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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 12-26-2016 at 07:38 PM.
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post #10 of 13 Old 12-29-2016, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
........Working on something different is part of the reason we purchase a mechanics special........
The key words there are (to me) "working on". If you bought it for that fine but I have more fun "riding it". I can do the work but it's just another job I have to do. Do you want to do the same thing you do at work, at home, on your "off" time? When I has young and broke, all I did was work on stuff to keep it running. Now I just get new, turn the key and ride it. If you think about what your time is worth and how much you're going to spend in parts, maybe a new one is better. My 09 got to about 20K miles started to not want to idle and I was tired of black so I went to the dealer got a white 2014 1/2. Brought it home. Switched out a few things (heated jacket controller, 14 tooth, etc) and stuck the 09 on Craigslist for the low price of 2500 bucks. Somebody got a deal and it was gone in a weekend. Instead of buying parts one at a time, I just bought them all once. I could have spent the winter working on the 2009, even a down to the frame restoration, it still wouldn't be as nice as a new 14. Rode the 14 until the clock said 10,700 and traded it off yesterday. Some people think I'm "lucky" but I worked my azz off for what I have and because of that I paid cash for the last three bikes. You may enjoy working on bikes but I'm over that. Dealers got to eat too. LOL! If my friend was working on his, I might ride by, say hello, listen to him cuss at the broken bolt, bust a knuckle or two and call the bike a "piece of shitz" four times, then wash his hands 5 times but that will get boring and I'll ride away. The only thing on the bike I want to turn is the key. How much are those payments again?

PS: What I really want is a helicopter but all the ones that come close to my price range come in a kit.

I'd probably crash it anyway


“Take the risk of thinking for yourself , much more happiness , truth, beauty, and wisdom will come to you that way.” Hitchens

Last edited by Toney; 12-29-2016 at 09:58 AM.
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