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post #1 of 5 Old 01-04-2017, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Hello all, not being a wiz with electrical I am hoping I can get some help here. I have two 10 watt LED lights that I want to put on my 2015 klr.question #1 Can I tie into the wires for the high beam? Can the existing wire handle the extra load? Is there a wire up front that I should be using instead? I want the lights to go off and on with the key. What is the preferred method. Looking for the easiest and best way to hook these lights up. Bike is new do I don't want to wreck anything. Thanks
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post #2 of 5 Old 01-04-2017, 04:39 PM
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I wouldn't tie into the high beam. The wiring there is already minimal for the 55 watt load and with another 20 watts it's a bit much.

Take a look at this thread for the best approach: http://www.klrforum.com/1987-2007-wr...tml#post551298. The plus side to this is that you'll be feeding good voltage to the headlights; downside is that it requires a bit of skill and experience with wiring, not to mention supplies and tools.

Now, you are only doing 20 watts vs the 55 watts in that thread, so you might get by with using the horn circuit. It's down by the rectifier/regulator and it is a switched hot. You can tap into the brown wire and make yourself a good frame ground in the same location; I think there is a frame ground near there already. Downside is that the lights will come on with the ignition, so they'll be on with both high and low beams. Sub-optimal from a social responsibility standpoint in my opinion. That could be fixed with a hefty switch (you need to handle about 2 amps through the switch) or, better yet, a relay using the high-beam circuit as a trigger.

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post #3 of 5 Old 01-10-2017, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
I wouldn't tie into the high beam. The wiring there is already minimal for the 55 watt load and with another 20 watts it's a bit much.

Take a look at this thread for the best approach: http://www.klrforum.com/1987-2007-wr...tml#post551298. The plus side to this is that you'll be feeding good voltage to the headlights; downside is that it requires a bit of skill and experience with wiring, not to mention supplies and tools.

Now, you are only doing 20 watts vs the 55 watts in that thread, so you might get by with using the horn circuit. It's down by the rectifier/regulator and it is a switched hot. You can tap into the brown wire and make yourself a good frame ground in the same location; I think there is a frame ground near there already. Downside is that the lights will come on with the ignition, so they'll be on with both high and low beams. Sub-optimal from a social responsibility standpoint in my opinion. That could be fixed with a hefty switch (you need to handle about 2 amps through the switch) or, better yet, a relay using the high-beam circuit as a trigger.

Tom
Definitely agree with the relay and high beam as a trigger, definitely the proper way to get the job done. So I am thinking power itself coming from the horn circuit and the coil of the relay being powered by the high beam circuit.

sent from my computer by frantically poking at the keyboard with a single finger
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post #4 of 5 Old 01-11-2017, 10:18 AM
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I use a trigger relay from the License plate light to trigger it for power from the battery to run my GPS and Aux lights.
The relay you can get from any auto parts store for under $10.00 and here is how to wire it.




Last edited by StevieS; 07-08-2017 at 01:57 PM.
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post #5 of 5 Old 01-11-2017, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Ghost Rider View Post
Definitely agree with the relay and high beam as a trigger, definitely the proper way to get the job done. So I am thinking power itself coming from the horn circuit and the coil of the relay being powered by the high beam circuit.

sent from my computer by frantically poking at the keyboard with a single finger
The horn power comes from the same brown ignition switch wire as all the other power (all lights etc.) from the main 20 amp fuse. This is one of the two wires we don't want to over load.

I would run a new separate 14 gauge wire with a15 amp inline fuse from the battery up to the relay for high beam power.
Using StevieS's diagram above using as standare 12 volt single pole doubble throw automotive relay connect:
Terminal 30 on the relay to the new 12 volt power wire from the battery.
Terminal 87 to the power wire to the high beams.
Terminal 85 to ground.
Terminal 86 to the original high beam wire from the switch.

When you switch to high beams the signal goes into #86 and out on #85 to ground and caused the relay to switch.
When the relay switches it connects the new power wire at #30 to the output wire at #86 sending power to the high beams.

Here is a circuit drawing of a standard automotive relay available from any auto parts store: TE Connectivity - 1432785-1 - AgSnO Form C 12 V PI MINI-ISO Relay - Allied Electronics
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