DPelletier's common new KLR owner mistakes to avoid - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #11 of 38 Old 03-31-2017, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by averagerider View Post
I appreciate your offering these observations for new owners. I just picked up a new KRL 650 one week ago; now have 90 miles on it. I am curious to know your thoughts on upsizing the front sprocket. I don't intend to do a lot of off-road riding, and would instead prefer to have lower engine RPMs at highway speeds. Are there problems in doing this?

Your thoughts?

ar
I went one tooth larger (16T I think it is) which lowered my highway rpm about 300. I like it, Notice just a small difference in 1st gear take-off but the 650 has enough torque it's a non issue for me.

2016 KLR 650
2017 BMW S1000RR (traded in for
2018 Ducati V4S
1983 GL1100 Goldwing
2017 Yamaha R1
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post #12 of 38 Old 03-31-2017, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Swapping out to a 16 tooth CS sprocket is a common change. I have 14's, 15's and 16's and change them up depending what I'm doing. Some use a 17 but clearance tends to become an issue. Unsurprisingly, I tend to use the 15 the most! If you are going to be swapping back and forth, an Eaglemike prevailing torque nut makes life easier as you can use 40 ft. lbs and don't have to worry about folding/unfolding the lock washer.

Cheers,
Dave
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post #13 of 38 Old 04-01-2017, 05:12 PM
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Thanks for suggestions on larger sprocket. I will go with a 16 tooth sprocket and see how it runs.

ar

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Home: central Indiana
No other bikes at the moment. But in past have owned Vespas, Hondas, Yamahas, Kawasakis, BMWs.
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post #14 of 38 Old 06-03-2017, 05:01 PM
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Well, guess I am going to violate a guideline. I have me a Happy Trails center stand coming. I just did my tires again and used the jackstands under the pegs trick. I think if those mounting points can take my fat rear end standing on the pegs under dynamic loading then they will be fine with the bike's weight under a relatively static load. I am getting older all the time and a center stand makes things so much easier. The happy trails unit is light in weight and adjustable.
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post #15 of 38 Old 06-05-2017, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by efigalaxie View Post
Well, guess I am going to violate a guideline. I have me a Happy Trails center stand coming. I just did my tires again and used the jackstands under the pegs trick. I think if those mounting points can take my fat rear end standing on the pegs under dynamic loading then they will be fine with the bike's weight under a relatively static load. I am getting older all the time and a center stand makes things so much easier. The happy trails unit is light in weight and adjustable.
Violate away! ....these are just my suggestions based on experience and observations. The desirability of a centerstand varies from person to person; for me, I have real bike jacks in the garage where I do at least 95% of all service...for unplanned trailside repairs, I'm willing to use a trail jack or even a rock or stump to avoid dealing with the weight and reduction in clearance from a centerstand.

Basically; long distance touring on and off pavement, a centerstand is a benefit. Shorter rides that typically include single track, not so much.

Aside from the above, the KLR footpeg capture nuts are weak and are notorious for failure. Make sure you keep them torqued (and not overtorqued) and keep an eye on them.

Cheers,
Dave

Last edited by DPelletier; 06-05-2017 at 04:57 PM.
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post #16 of 38 Old 06-05-2017, 04:44 PM
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When speaking of "capture nut" I'm assuming the nut behind the foot peg bracket is being referenced?
What is the weak point there?
On my '16 the nut appears to be welded to the back side of the peg brackets and looks to be a nut of typical thickness not like those thinner ones I've seen.
The peg bolts would catch only a few threads so I replaced them with longer hardened bolts agood 1/4" longer and loc-tite. Is there something else to be concerned about or watch for?

2016 KLR 650
2017 BMW S1000RR (traded in for
2018 Ducati V4S
1983 GL1100 Goldwing
2017 Yamaha R1

Last edited by dan filipi; 06-05-2017 at 05:03 PM.
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post #17 of 38 Old 06-05-2017, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dan filipi View Post
When speaking of "capture nut" I'm assuming the nut behind the foot peg bracket is being referenced?
What is the weak point there?
On my '16 the nut appears to be welded to the back side of the peg brackets and looks to be a nut of typical thickness not like those thinner ones I've seen.
The peg bolts would catch only a few threads so I replaced them with longer hardened bolts and loc-tite. Is there something else to be concerned about or watch for?
Dan: yep, I'm referring to the nuts welded on the backside of the footpeg mounting "box". They tend to strip out and my recollection is that the nuts are only 3-4 threads deep. The failures are likely caused by loose bolts or overtightening.....or both. If they changed the nuts in the last few years this is the first I've heard of it but anything is possible.

Despite the overwhelming evidence of weakness in this area, I've not had any issues with my own KLR's; I keep the bolts tight (Also used blue locktite) and I don't have any guards or centerstands which add significant stress.....probably also helps that my 2000 still has less than 1500 miles on it! If and when I have a problem, I'm going to cut the nuts out and weld in larger, longer ones.

In your case I think you're fine; just keep an eye on them.

2 cents,
Dave
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post #18 of 38 Old 07-02-2017, 10:20 PM
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Great stuff Dan.
Thank you.
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post #19 of 38 Old 07-03-2017, 02:08 PM
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Thanks for the great tips...much appreciated as I am still very new to the sport.

RE: the proper air filter oil..make sure and use oil with the proper viscosity, such as Uni foam filter oil on the foam filters (not the K&N thin oil for gauze filters - ask me how I know )
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post #20 of 38 Old 10-31-2017, 08:37 AM
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I have an 09 model which I bought new. You mention not to throw away the tube that goes in the oil filter. I can not recall there ever having been such a tube in my bike, though I have always thought there should be. I change my oil every 3,000 miles and now have 38,000 miles on the bike. What effect does the lack of that tube have on my engine? I see the tube you mention shown in a parts blow up and assume I should order one.
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