DPelletier's common new KLR owner mistakes to avoid - Page 3 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #21 of 27 Old 10-31-2017, 09:49 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmotorcyclist View Post
I have an 09 model which I bought new. You mention not to throw away the tube that goes in the oil filter. I can not recall there ever having been such a tube in my bike, though I have always thought there should be. I change my oil every 3,000 miles and now have 38,000 miles on the bike. What effect does the lack of that tube have on my engine? I see the tube you mention shown in a parts blow up and assume I should order one.
Note the description of K part #16156-002. Piston-Assy, Valve, By-Pass.
The function of the part is to allow cold thick oil to By-Pass the filter media just temporarily, to fill the interior of the oil filter, the oil pipe, the hollow crankshaft, hollow camshafts and hollow transmission shafts and therefore Equalize the oil pressure on the Interior and Exterior of the oil filter. Thus preventing the cold thick oil from crushing the oil filter.

With-out the by-pass valve "pipe" (and its spring and plunger piston assy) inserted into the oil filter, the oil never is filtered. It just takes the path of least resistance, thru the open holes of the large rubber grommets.
I recommend that you order and install one at your earliest convenience.

To understand the oil filter system a little better, watch the video in this posting,
http://www.klrforum.com/448425-post6.html
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pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #22 of 27 Old 10-31-2017, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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Location: Kelowna, B.C.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmotorcyclist View Post
I have an 09 model which I bought new. You mention not to throw away the tube that goes in the oil filter. I can not recall there ever having been such a tube in my bike, though I have always thought there should be. I change my oil every 3,000 miles and now have 38,000 miles on the bike. What effect does the lack of that tube have on my engine? I see the tube you mention shown in a parts blow up and assume I should order one.
Yes you should have one so by all means order one and install it. The effect of a missing tube is that the filter is largely bypassed.....but as long as you change the oil regularly and you haven't had any issues which would cause contamination you are probably fine though it certainly isn't a good thing. Most of the 40 bikes I've owned have been MX and offroad bikes and very few actually even had a filter so it's not like it's an automatic death sentence. .....that said, most people that discover the tube missing are only going an oil change or two without it, not 38,000 miles. I'd put it in and not stress about it.

Dave
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post #23 of 27 Old 07-17-2018, 03:20 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2018
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Wow! So helpful. Thanks DPelletier! I've ridden dirtbikes my whole life. My friend convinced me to do a mini adventure with him and I was hooked. I'm now the proud owner of a 2008 KLR 650 with 10k miles on it. The exact model you don't want. I guess I should have read this first. It's dead stock except crash bars. I'm an okay wrench and even use to be a professional diesel mechanic, but never had a bike with fairings, and all this extra stuff. What manuals do you like for the KLR? I read this whole thread and your suggestions for what do to when getting a new / used bike and will follow that, but I don't really want to change out the cylinder and stuff. Is it really that bad?
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post #24 of 27 Old 07-17-2018, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Kelowna, B.C.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSnide View Post
Wow! So helpful. Thanks DPelletier! I've ridden dirtbikes my whole life. My friend convinced me to do a mini adventure with him and I was hooked. I'm now the proud owner of a 2008 KLR 650 with 10k miles on it. The exact model you don't want. I guess I should have read this first. It's dead stock except crash bars. I'm an okay wrench and even use to be a professional diesel mechanic, but never had a bike with fairings, and all this extra stuff. What manuals do you like for the KLR? I read this whole thread and your suggestions for what do to when getting a new / used bike and will follow that, but I don't really want to change out the cylinder and stuff. Is it really that bad?
Don't stress about the 2008 stuff; most is very minor and some never develop the bad oil burning problem. You should do the doohickey upgrade when you can and Eaglemike sends the spacer to deal with the "deep hole issue" if you tell him it's for a 2008. Other than that, just check and go through the wiring harness for rub points; you should be able to google the common spots.

Never let the bike get low on oil and keep the level at the very top of the sight glass. Monitor the consumption and consider the 685 if it gets excessive.

Manuals? I have both the factory service manuals (KLR600 and 650 suppliment) and the Clymers.....the Clymers is easier to use for most.

Cheers and happy riding.

Dave
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post #25 of 27 Old 12-28-2018, 04:38 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 5,312
Hey Dave! I think I might have a #9 new owners error.

Ignoring or forgetting to thoroughly OIL a NEW or even freshly cleaned foam air filter.
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pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

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post #26 of 27 Old 01-01-2019, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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Paul, that sounds worthy of an add to me.....maybe also mention the clean side drain plug......hmmmm; two separate items or close enought to be one? thoughts?

Dave
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post #27 of 27 Old 01-06-2019, 06:45 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Norfolk, Va
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What about over filling the fuel?

See my previous post! They weren’t kidding with that warning about not filling to the top on bikes with Ca evaporative emission control system.
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