DPelletier's common new KLR owner mistakes to avoid - Page 4 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #31 of 39 Old 08-29-2019, 07:16 PM
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I'm not a MIG guy by any means. I can hardly spell MIG, so consider that in the following.

Can't you weld it in the position it is in? That case screw might be a bit in the way of your torch, but I don't think it should come out for fear of creating a seam leak.
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post #32 of 39 Old 08-29-2019, 08:32 PM
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At least the treads aren't STRIPPED and the boss is not Missing Pieces.

They probably dropped the Thick Aluminum Gasket into the dirty oil drain pan and screwed in an aftermarket magnetic drain plug with incompletely cut threads, which 'wedged' the un-supported side of the drain boss open! DANG THEM!!

Grooving the crack with a small rotary file (Dremel Tool) burr and filling/overlapping the area with JB WELD, IS the best option in this case, IMHO.

If it is welded, the welding will burn the sealant out of the center seam. Which can be re-sealed with about 4 inches / 100mm of JB WELD both fore & aft of the drain plug boss.

Otherwise it will Require a Complete engine Tear-down!

pdwestman
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post #33 of 39 Old 08-30-2019, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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unfortunately there is no oil pan on the KLR, it's integral to the side case making it no easy fix. Most just use JB weld.....taking the engine apart, splitting the cases, welding and putting everything back together is out of the skill range of most backyard mechanics and it would be cost prohibitive to pay someone by the hour to do all that - making engine replacement the likely choice for a proper repair.....hence the popular JB weld! If I was going to try to seal it up with JB weld, I'd probably use a rubber sealing washer to avoid leaks at less torque.....Toyota makes one IIRC.

Dave
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post #34 of 39 Old 08-30-2019, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
I'm not a MIG guy by any means. I can hardly spell MIG, so consider that in the following.

Can't you weld it in the position it is in? That case screw might be a bit in the way of your torch, but I don't think it should come out for fear of creating a seam leak.
@DPelletier @pdwestman @campfire

Using a MIG welder would mean that you would have to have a spool gun for aluminum. I think TIG welding (Heliarc) would be the way to go on that. It could be done with the bike on it's side, and grind out a channel along the crack.
Look for someone who does bike repair with a TIG welder in the shop, and you'll probably find someone who would welcome the challenge. I know my son would with his new Miller.
I would also drill the end of that fracture, along with still putting in a thread repair kit.

Good luck, you'll get it back on the road I bet.

Confidence is the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation."

Jeff in Napa California
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post #35 of 39 Old 08-30-2019, 06:40 PM
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At this time he will be living with JB weldl It is the most practical and functional. Thank you all Pdwestman, Dave, Tom and Campfire for the info that help us decide.

The man on top of the mountain didn’t fall there.

Last edited by Dicky; 09-03-2019 at 06:07 AM.
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post #36 of 39 Old 08-30-2019, 07:10 PM
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The threads looked 'Perfectly Good' to my eyes. No need for thread repair from what I could see.

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post #37 of 39 Old 09-26-2019, 12:25 PM
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Common mistake #11. If you're new to the dual sport world, not taking a KLR owner with you to look over the used KLR you're thinking of buying. I'm still paying for that mistake.
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post #38 of 39 Old 09-28-2019, 09:31 AM
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better than jb weld

Quote:
Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
unfortunately there is no oil pan on the KLR, it's integral to the side case making it no easy fix. Most just use JB weld.....taking the engine apart, splitting the cases, welding and putting everything back together is out of the skill range of most backyard mechanics and it would be cost prohibitive to pay someone by the hour to do all that - making engine replacement the likely choice for a proper repair.....hence the popular JB weld! If I was going to try to seal it up with JB weld, I'd probably use a rubber sealing washer to avoid leaks at less torque.....Toyota makes one IIRC.

Dave
A thing called ( pig-putty ) makes jb weld look like gum. We used it in the electric field to stop leaks in transformers, one can patch a leaky boat in the water with it. Dries in 20mns. I used it on a friends Harley, as he put a hole in his oil line, cleaned it and put 2 coats on it and he drove around for a few days before replacing the oil line.
( clean up the area, and put a small bit on, and let harden, then put a second over the first. ) Its good stuff, can be drilled and tapped.
A good welder could tell what the case is made of and also take care of it accordingly. If it can be soldered or braised, it can bbe don upside down.
Hope any of this helps.
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post #39 of 39 Old 12-01-2019, 12:00 PM
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Great post, I must admit in my youth I was guilty quit often of over torquing.
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