all electrics are dead - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 03-04-2017, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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all electrics are dead

So, I got the engine all put back together, but it didn't want to start. The first thing I did was to check that it was getting fuel and spark. I had the spark plug out and resting on one of the valve cover bolts. I pressed the started button to see if I was getting spark. There was a hissing sound like something shorting out and all the electrics died. This was just as I pushed the starter button. None of the fuses, the 15 amp or 20 amp are blown. Am I right to make the assumption that I have a problem somewhere with a ground? If there are no blown fuses yet there is no electricity anywhere, it seems it must be a ground problem. I know there are two 20 amp fuses but one of them is an extra. Neither was blown.
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post #2 of 11 Old 03-04-2017, 09:33 PM
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First check that your battery is connected correctly (pos to pos). It isn't uncommon for someone to connect the batt backwards, it just happened about two weeks ago on the forum. Once you are sure the batt is connected correctly you can follow the wires testing the connections with a test light. By connecting the clip of the test light to pos on the battery you can follow the main ground wire and check the connections along it. You can do the same for the pos wiring by connecting you test light clip to the neg side of the battery and following the pos wiring.
What year of bike is it?
JJ

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post #3 of 11 Old 03-05-2017, 07:06 AM Thread Starter
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The bike is an 09 model. The battery is connected correctly and fully charged. I forgot to mention that all the lights were working up until the minute I pressed the starter button. There was a couple of clicking sounds from the started as if it was trying to turn over and that is when the whole system went dead. The whole system was working the day before, including the starter. The only thing that transpired between the day it went dead and the day before was that I charged the battery.
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post #4 of 11 Old 03-05-2017, 07:35 AM
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Add multimeter; chase wires.
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post #5 of 11 Old 03-05-2017, 11:14 AM
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This happens to be the area of my expertise. The sound you described could be either the sound of electrical arcing or the sound of the starter solenoid barely engaging. The second option is the most likely and would mean that your battery probably did not take a charge and needs to be replaced. Second option could be a bad connection anywhere first place I would check is the main ground from the battery.

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post #6 of 11 Old 03-05-2017, 12:44 PM
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It is possible to charge a battery backwards if you hook up a dead battery to a charger backwards.

If you charged it, check it with a multimeter.

“Take the risk of thinking for yourself , much more happiness , truth, beauty, and wisdom will come to you that way.” Hitchens
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post #7 of 11 Old 03-05-2017, 03:15 PM
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To test your theory about a bad ground, pull the tail/brake light bulb and with the switch on check the two contact points in the bottom of the socket and the socket sleeve.

The sleeve should show as grounded. If not, ground wire is bad.

One of the contact points should not be grounded or have 12 volts (brake light)

One of the contact points should have 12 volts on it (Tail light). If not, something is open from the battery through the fuses, the ignition switch and the wiring.

That sizzle could be a bad battery connection. If it were a wire burning, it should have blown a fuse unless you use oversize fuses.

Last edited by GoMotor; 03-05-2017 at 03:17 PM.
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post #8 of 11 Old 03-05-2017, 06:00 PM
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Being as the engine has been out and in, I'll suggest that you re-confirm that the large ground Cable is Tight on a starter motor Mount.

You might have fried a smaller ground wire or 2!

pdwestman
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post #9 of 11 Old 03-05-2017, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for all your input. It was informative. The problem is solved. It turns out the battery was shot. The day I hit that starter button and everything went dead, the battery showed 12.6 amps. The next day it showed 10 amps and there had been no draw from it since I hit the starter switch. I checked the two main grounds and they were all right, so I figured there was something wrong with the batt. since it should not have been going down. I took it in to have it tested and the test showed it was shot. I replaced it and the electricity is back on. The battery was only 15 months old, so it really shouldn't have been shot, but it was. I hated to pay for a new batt. but it still beats tracing every circuit looking for a short or a bad ground. I'm not sure, but I think a batt. can short out internally. Again, thanks.
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post #10 of 11 Old 03-05-2017, 07:18 PM
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The battery may have shorted internally. It happens from time to time.....Glad you got it sorted out. A new battery is much cheaper than a trip to the dealership for repairs!!
JJ

It's not a Tractor....It's a LOCOMOTIVE!! Chugga Chugga
Woooo WOOOOO!!!!!
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