Hard starting help please - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

 
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post #1 of 7 Old 03-06-2017, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
Neutral
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Seguin Texas
Posts: 7
Hard starting help please

Good morning all, last Friday I purchased a 2011 KLR 650, when I got the bike home after several hours of being shut off and fairly cold (upper 50s) and late at night, when I unloaded the bike from the trailer I had a very difficult time starting it, it would start and die,start and die,with choke on, it took me about 20 hits of the starter to finally get it going and even then I had to finesse the throttle, when I finally took it for a short 2 mile ride after warming up for about 4 minutes it seemed to lack power and had a lag in the mid range. Very disappointing, next morning I checked for the .22 cent mod feeling it was very lean, I found nothing had been done so performed this mod, I noticed when I pulled the welch plug from the low speed screw it was completely closed, in other words when I tried to close it and back it out 2 1/4 turns it was already closed (aha moment) so I drilled the slide to 7/64s added .042 under the needle and backed the screw out 2 1/4 turns and put back together for a test. Again the same thing no difference in starting and acceleration on the stand nearly fry the battery and starter getting it going. So pulled the carburetor and disassembled it very clean inside but still soaked it for 6 hours and cleaned all ports and passages. Decided to check valve adjustment and does need new shims for sure but my gut tells me this is not the issue. I have checked all hoses and they are all good, main jet is #145 which I think will be OK for my altitude (south Texas), Talked to the previous owner and said he had never done anything to the bike except change the oil and it has 17528 miles. I asked him about the "doohickey" he said the "what" so will be doing the valve shims and doohichey. What else can cause this lean issue. I want to fix everything all at once. Besides I am unable to play with my new toy and it is killing me. Sorry for the long post but figure better to give as much info as possible. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 7 Old 03-06-2017, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Seguin Texas
Posts: 7
Added info

Thought I would add the valve clearance specs. additional info:
Lexh and Rexh both measure the same: .13mm go - .15mm no go
Lint: .10mm go - .13mm no go
Rint: .13mm go - .15mm no go

If this helps ??
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post #3 of 7 Old 03-06-2017, 09:48 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
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Diaphragm air leak (tear/hole, or improper perimeter seating/sealing) could cause all the symptoms you mention.

You say you cleaned the carb (no need to refer you to the outstanding videos posted on this website); I'd recommend you check the diaphragm and its seating/sealing.
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post #4 of 7 Old 03-06-2017, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Seguin Texas
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OK I will look closer, I didn't see anything wrong with it, the edges were not crushed or smashed as if improperly seated, I have jewelers specs I can inspect the diaphragm with and put a light behind for close up viewing. Thanks for the tip
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post #5 of 7 Old 03-06-2017, 03:34 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
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skutter,
Did you notice the 3 tiny pilot outlet holes at the bottom edge of the throttle plate?
They also get there fuel from the same pilot jet as the idle mixture screw. (The Pilot jet is the one recessed UP-Inside the tower. #40 as I recall.)
I use a tiny wire bent at a 90 degree angle to poke down thru them, then back-flush with aerosol carb cleaner and compressed air. Then check for even flow of aerosol carb cleaner Up Thru all 4 pilot outlets!

Throttle slide Diaphragm has Nothing to do with Start-Up!
But fuel petcock valve diaphragm could.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #6 of 7 Old 03-06-2017, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Seguin Texas
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Thanks pdwestman, I soaked the carburetor all day today again and cleaned just as you suggested, I did not poke out the holes near the throttle plate yesterday but I did do the pilot jet and it is a #40, in any case at this point I am sure the carb is good to go. I will check the petcock valve diaphragm, I was unaware it existed. Valve shims will be here Thursday or Friday and I can reassemble and try again. Thanks for the help.
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post #7 of 7 Old 03-06-2017, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skutter View Post
Thanks pdwestman, I soaked the carburetor all day today again and cleaned just as you suggested, I did not poke out the holes near the throttle plate yesterday but I did do the pilot jet and it is a #40, in any case at this point I am sure the carb is good to go. I will check the petcock valve diaphragm, I was unaware it existed. Valve shims will be here Thursday or Friday and I can reassemble and try again. Thanks for the help.
The diaphragm referred to by me was probably the diaphragm associated with the slide.

The OEM petcock has a diaphragm; also, the air cut valve/coasting enricher/backfire preventer in the carburetor has a diaphragm as well. (Neither should affect start-up, unless a disabled petcock diaphragm prevents vacuum activation of the tank fuel release, seems to me.)

This symptom suggested possible slide diaphragm air leak to me:

" I had a very difficult time starting it, it would start and die,start and die,with choke on, it took me about 20 hits of the starter to finally get it going and even then I had to finesse the throttle, when I finally took it for a short 2 mile ride after warming up for about 4 minutes it seemed to lack power and had a lag in the mid range."

I have assumed free flow of fuel from tank to carburetor float bowl.

Recommend, "Care and Feeding of the CVK40 Carburetor," referenced on this website; as well as . . . "Carb Overhaul."

Last edited by Damocles; 03-06-2017 at 08:33 PM.
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