I need "It won't start" wisdom - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 16 Old 03-07-2017, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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I need "It won't start" wisdom

I just had the head recondition and the cylinder bored. It is back together but won't start. It backfires occasionally as it tries to start, but that is it. The timing has been checked and rechecked. The battery is brand new and fully charged. The valve clearance measures .008 on all four valves. It is getting fuel and spark. I had a brand new spark plug in it, but put the old one back in as I knew it was working before I started the project. Any suggestions on where I should go from here?
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post #2 of 16 Old 03-07-2017, 03:48 PM
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I will ask if you center punched the lower portion of the woodruff key and tapped it snuggly down into the fly-cut on the crankshaft, when you had the flywheel OFF?

If you didn't do this, chances are your ignition timing and possibly cam timings are both OFF the mark.
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post #3 of 16 Old 03-08-2017, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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It appears the problem is the woodruff key. The key was right where it belonged; however, there was none of it above the top of the groove so it was having no effect. It was a new key purchased from the Kawasaki dealer. Eagle Mike advised me to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/32 X 5/8 woodruff key. So tomorrow, I will put things back together and see if it will start. And, I will center punch it on the lower side before putting it in the groove. Thanks PD for the tip.
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post #4 of 16 Old 03-08-2017, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmotorcyclist View Post
............. The key was right where it belonged; however, there was none of it above the top of the groove so it was having no effect. ........... I will center punch it on the lower side before putting it in the groove. Thanks PD for the tip.
Two mistakes can be make with that key.

1. You can have the key punched on the side to help hole it in place while installing the rotor, but if the rotor key way is not lined up with the shaft key way and the key, it will just shave the top of the soft key off and go on in an out-of-time position. You should look for the missing part of the key.

2. Similar to the first, but caused by the key not being punched and loose in the key way. It just gets pushed out with the same results.

I make sure the key is well punched and snuggle tapped down in the grove in the shaft. Then as I slide the rotor over the shaft, I gently wiggle it slightly left and right so I can feel it slip over the key. If I am not comfortable with it, I try again. Better than having to take it all apart again.
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Last edited by GoMotor; 03-08-2017 at 11:00 PM.
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post #5 of 16 Old 03-09-2017, 10:48 AM
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It is possible that the tapers of both the Crankshaft and the Flywheel Rotor were not 100% clean and Oil Free during re-assembly.

It is possible IMO that the flywheel starter sprag and ring gear may not have been fully engaged/seated during re-assembly. And one may have sheared the woodruff key with the rotor holder wrench, turning to a hold-able position for rotor bolt torqueing.

The sheared portion of that woodruff key needs to be accounted for!

pdwestman
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post #6 of 16 Old 03-09-2017, 11:31 AM
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Question for ya' Mad,
Why did you have to replace your Original woodruff key?
And do you have the part #510A4200 on an invoice from your K dealer?

I don't know enough about woodruff keys to know whether or not there are both metric and sae/American woodruff keys or not.

I do measure the 510A4200 key pretty close to EM's 5/32 x 5/8 inch.
510A4200 = .1570in x .6150in This key needs to be "stippled" or punched, to stay put.
5//32 x 5/8= .1562in x .6250in This key may need to be "stippled" or punched a little harded/deeper, to stay put.

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post #7 of 16 Old 03-11-2017, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Well fellas, the good news is that due to all your help, the engine is now running again. I can now put it all back together, reattach the side car and once again take in the Texas country roads.
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post #8 of 16 Old 03-11-2017, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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I must also add a great big thank you for Eagle Mike who patiently took all my phone calls with the kindest and most encouraging attitude.
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post #9 of 16 Old 03-11-2017, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoMotor View Post

I make sure the key is well punched and snuggle tapped down in the grove in the shaft. Then as I slide the rotor over the shaft, I gently wiggle it slightly left and right so I can feel it slip over the key. If I am not comfortable with it, I try again. Better than having to take it all apart again.
Gomotor, can you take a sec and describe exactly what you're doing to produce a "well-punched" key? I think I've been lucky, I never did anything to them and haven't had a problem. I'd like to understand just what you're doing so I can try it. Thanks.

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post #10 of 16 Old 03-12-2017, 03:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanBarwick View Post
Gomotor, can you take a sec and describe exactly what you're doing to produce a "well-punched" key? I think I've been lucky, I never did anything to them and haven't had a problem. I'd like to understand just what you're doing so I can try it. Thanks.
I just use a small 1/4" cold chisel on the side of the woodruff key with a little pop from a hammer to make a burr on the side of the key. Then if I have to very gently tap it to get it in the key way, I am happy with it. If it won't gently tap in, I file the burr down a little.

You want it tight enough so that you don't knock the key out of the key way while trying to line the key way in the rotor up with the key on the shaft.
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