SW-Motech bar bolts - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 03-20-2017, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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SW-Motech bar bolts

I'm about to put my Motech bars on and notice the following:

Top bolts (front of saddle) are M10, Lower bolts are M6 and front bolts are M8.

Should I be upgrading any of these? 2012 Gen 2

Last edited by djeady; 03-20-2017 at 04:20 PM.
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post #2 of 12 Old 03-20-2017, 03:46 PM
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Same question! Subscribed!
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post #3 of 12 Old 03-20-2017, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djeady View Post
I'm about to put my Motech bars on and notice the following:

Top bolts (front of saddle) are M10, Lower bolts are M6 and front bolts are M8.

Should I be upgrading any of these? 2012 Gen 2
I'll suggest that you use Anti-seize grease on the threads of the bolts that SW-Motech sent with your crash bars and Use the Torque specs in their Installation Instructions. You do own a 3/8th inch drive Inch Pound Torque wrench, don't you?
If not, purchase one. You should use the torque table listings and the torque wrench on most of your KLR normal maintenance items.

pdwestman
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post #4 of 12 Old 03-20-2017, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Have 2 torque wrenches in inch pounds (3/8 and 1/2) and two in foot pounds so I think I should be good.

Anti-seize instead of blue Locktite? I thought these things were prone to falling out - already had to replace one of them.
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post #5 of 12 Old 03-20-2017, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djeady View Post
Have 2 torque wrenches in inch pounds (3/8 and 1/2) and two in foot pounds so I think I should be good.

Anti-seize instead of blue Locktite? I thought these things were prone to falling out - already had to replace one of them.
Now you need to purchase a 1/4" drive 50-200 Inch Pound for doing Valve tappet inspect and adjust.

Properly lubed and properly Torqued is the key to staying put and Not Stripping the threads.
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post #6 of 12 Old 03-27-2017, 09:03 AM
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Just a tip, I began the install of a set of SWMotech crash bars on my 2017 2 weeks ago. The left side went on fine but I quickly found out that the right side subframe wasn't threaded deep enough for the longer SWMotech bolts. Long story short I broke the bolt off in the frame. My fault, I know. Ended up drilling it out and going with an Eagle Mike drill through subframe bolt upgrade. I wish i had gone this route from the beginning, it would have save me from being down a week waiting on parts.
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post #7 of 12 Old 03-27-2017, 10:00 AM
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On my 2013 I had no issues with the Motech crash bars. Everything lined up pretty well and easily. Just don't tighten any of the bolts down solid until they're all started. Then one by one you can remove them, add some blue loctite and thread back in.

Once they're all in loose with loctite, then start torquing them down.

Now, anti-seize and torquing is probably just as good. I'm no expert, but I expect Loctite works like the anti-seize in terms of being a lubricant / allowing the proper torquing of the bolt which should keep it in place. The Loctite cures into an adhesive, while the anti-seize remains a lubricant keeping it from seizing (I assume).

Given the factory doesn't apply much threadlock to the bolts, and things like the rotor bolt doesn't call for threadlock when doing your doohickie, maybe the loctite is all for nothing.

Bottom line is the crash bars are not going anywhere. The frame bolt is not going to back out (even if it did the tank is in the way of it coming out), the front mounts have locking nuts on them from the factory, and if the little 6mm bolts clamping onto the frame work their way out, the worst thing that will happen is you loose the clamp and need a new one from SW Motech.

Also as a note (for all those Google searches), Motech indicates the doohickie adjuster is accessible with the bars in place, and looking at it, I'd say you can remove the engine covers and do the actual doohickie service with the left crash bar in place.

Same thing goes for the skid plate which I have on as well. It's not in the way (although it required a floor jack to force the mounting holes into alignment).
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post #8 of 12 Old 03-29-2017, 09:43 AM
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Me too!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Daisy Cutter View Post
Just a tip, I began the install of a set of SWMotech crash bars on my 2017 2 weeks ago. The left side went on fine but I quickly found out that the right side subframe wasn't threaded deep enough for the longer SWMotech bolts. Long story short I broke the bolt off in the frame. My fault, I know. Ended up drilling it out and going with an Eagle Mike drill through subframe bolt upgrade. I wish i had gone this route from the beginning, it would have save me from being down a week waiting on parts.

Wow-talk about stealing my thunder- I was just about to post a nearly identical response on this thread. I bought my new KLR just a few weeks ago also--- and had the exact same thing happen. That bolt snapped about 1.5 inches from its end point- and the only solution was the Eagle Mike drill through kit was the only option.
That drilling was well above my skills set--- but I didnt have any choice. Thank God it worked out, and the bars are now on and everything is fitted well. But man, a "10" on the stress scale drilling out the frame and doing it correctly--- I had never tried anything that ambitious before on a bike.

Lesson learned- the moment that bolt from the SW kit started to bottom or strip, I should have backed off and regrouped. Word to the wise folks.
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post #9 of 12 Old 03-29-2017, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by open1mind View Post
Lesson learned- the moment that bolt from the SW kit started to bottom or strip, I should have backed off and regrouped. Word to the wise folks.
I'm kind of glad it happened. I think running the drill through subframe bolt will be stronger in the long run using panniers and riding with a load vs the original design. But I'm right there with ya on the stress factor. Seems like every upgrade I've done so far has been tougher than it needed to be. I even had a hard time getting my SWMotech skid plate to line up properly with the bolt holes. Ended up having to leave the spacers out on the bottom.
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post #10 of 12 Old 03-29-2017, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Daisy Cutter View Post
-------------- Seems like every upgrade I've done so far has been tougher than it needed to be. I even had a hard time getting my SWMotech skid plate to line up properly with the bolt holes. Ended up having to leave the spacers out on the bottom.
Daisy Cutter,
How close to 'dead level' is the engine oil drain plug with the skid plate spacers Not Installed?

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