On my 2013 I had no issues with the Motech crash bars. Everything lined up pretty well and easily. Just don't tighten any of the bolts down solid until they're all started. Then one by one you can remove them, add some blue loctite and thread back in.
Once they're all in loose with loctite, then start torquing them down.
Now, anti-seize and torquing is probably just as good. I'm no expert, but I expect Loctite works like the anti-seize in terms of being a lubricant / allowing the proper torquing of the bolt which should keep it in place. The Loctite cures into an adhesive, while the anti-seize remains a lubricant keeping it from seizing (I assume).
Given the factory doesn't apply much threadlock to the bolts, and things like the rotor bolt doesn't call for threadlock when doing your doohickie, maybe the loctite is all for nothing.
Bottom line is the crash bars are not going anywhere. The frame bolt is not going to back out (even if it did the tank is in the way of it coming out), the front mounts have locking nuts on them from the factory, and if the little 6mm bolts clamping onto the frame work their way out, the worst thing that will happen is you loose the clamp and need a new one from SW Motech.
Also as a note (for all those Google searches), Motech indicates the doohickie adjuster is accessible with the bars in place, and looking at it, I'd say you can remove the engine covers and do the actual doohickie service with the left crash bar in place.
Same thing goes for the skid plate which I have on as well. It's not in the way (although it required a floor jack to force the mounting holes into alignment).