Maybe only Speedo parts broken? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 11 Old 03-26-2017, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Feb 2017
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Maybe only Speedo parts broken?

I was re-installing the front wheel after the ddc upgrade and after seeing it wasn't spinning freely, I pulled it back off and have this... appears to be limited to one easily replaced part...... OR as I've seen from other posts, one part I may as well try to "repair" while a new one comes in... I have a day off, why not waste it on this?

Seems like some jb weld, a little sanding and this baby should be like new... maybe even better.
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Last edited by Jhawker23; 03-27-2017 at 09:04 AM.
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post #2 of 11 Old 03-27-2017, 11:43 AM
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Jhawker,
I can only suggest that the pinion gear seized, because someone washed the old grease out of the drive assembly. It is the only way I can explain how the Circlip Flange gets completely shattered Off of the hub. And It appears as thou teeth are stripped off of the ring gear also, 1st time I've seen a pic of that.

There is NO Way to re-grease the pinion, but it can be oiled. Too late in this case.
Without the circlip,(do you even have one? No way to retain it now.) the wheel might be able to 'walk' side to side about .020", back and forth across the bearings.

Proper repair would be a Replacement hub or used wheel assembly and a replacement speedo drive.
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pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting

Last edited by pdwestman; 03-27-2017 at 11:46 AM.
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post #3 of 11 Old 03-27-2017, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Jhawker,
the wheel might be able to 'walk' side to side about .020", back and forth across the bearings.
Thanks PD, I think it may be "will walk" more than might...

I gave it a test run and the front felt "wobbly" and loose. It's a very hard feeling to describe. Not excessive but just a feeling of not handling correctly. To complicate it a little, I had just put in the Cogent DDC suspension kit. So the forks were out and the timing just makes me think of all kinds of possibilities.

Also, the rear tire was replaced with a Mefo Explorer and the front left stock. And of course, I also replaced stock shock with the Moab. All of this at the same time so I have no frame of reference as to the change in handling of each upgrade.

Finally, to just add to everything, the rear now feel like it's sliding out from under me.

The karma is not good... not sure what I've done but the karma is not good.
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post #4 of 11 Old 03-27-2017, 09:12 PM
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I'm quite possibly missing something, but I was under the impression that basically the wheel spacers, bearing inner races and axle spacer all lock together when tightened and that that dimension is the same regardless of the condition of the hub. ....not sure how it could "walk" any more than it could if the hub was intact....maybe I need to pull a front wheel again to have a gander.... people wiser than I have suggested that the missing hub bits serve no real purpose. Paul?


Dave
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post #5 of 11 Old 03-27-2017, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
I'm quite possibly missing something, but I was under the impression that basically the wheel spacers, bearing inner races and axle spacer all lock together when tightened and that that dimension is the same regardless of the condition of the hub. ....not sure how it could "walk" any more than it could if the hub was intact....maybe I need to pull a front wheel again to have a gander.... people wiser than I have suggested that the missing hub bits serve no real purpose. Paul?


Dave
Dave, I like your perspective... I've been reading what I could find on this and there were definitely a number of people riding without replacing the hub. If that's the case and the steering symptom is related to something else, I could live with a vapor/voyager for a while. That would also mean next up is figuring out why the steering feels "loose". Tires are 32/34 psi.

Between the feeling in the steering and the rear sway that felt like the tire was going to roll out from under me, I aged about 6 years in a day.

Last edited by Jhawker23; 03-27-2017 at 11:09 PM.
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post #6 of 11 Old 03-28-2017, 11:52 AM
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there is another fix for the dreaded broken hub issue;

KLR Speedometer fix | Adventure Rider

Dave
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post #7 of 11 Old 03-28-2017, 12:00 PM
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...have you checked the steering head bearings? I also find that suspension settings, particularly setting sag properly make a big difference in a KLR's stability. Obviously you need to ensure that all the wheel and suspension bearings are in good shape and there is no play.

Dave
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post #8 of 11 Old 03-28-2017, 12:01 PM
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BTW, the Cogent Moab and DDC's are about the best things you can do to a KLR and I find they really increase the stability of the platform as well as the other obvious benefits.

Dave
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post #9 of 11 Old 03-28-2017, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
I'm quite possibly missing something, but I was under the impression that basically the wheel spacers, bearing inner races and axle spacer all lock together when tightened and that that dimension is the same regardless of the condition of the hub. ....not sure how it could "walk" any more than it could if the hub was intact....maybe I need to pull a front wheel again to have a gander.... people wiser than I have suggested that the missing hub bits serve no real purpose. Paul?


Dave
Dave & Jhawker23,
I do realize that this thread of mine is about the rear hub, but the info is still valid.
http://www.klrforum.com/klr-other-mo...s-problem.html

The bearing bores are .010"-.020" Deeper than the Bearing Spacer is Long! This keeps the inner Races of the Ball style wheel bearings from normally being 'Preloaded', too much.
Without the circlip on the right hand side of the Front wheel it could be Possible for the hub to 'walk', back and forth across the outside race of the bearings, especially on a fast, twisty asphalt highway (heavy braking, higher heat).

If one can find a shim of the appropriate diameter and thickness of the measured difference between bearing bores and spacer length, one could run With-Out a circlip on either the Front or Rear wheel!

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #10 of 11 Old 03-29-2017, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Dave & Jhawker23,
I do realize that this thread of mine is about the rear hub, but the info is still valid.
http://www.klrforum.com/klr-other-mo...s-problem.html

The bearing bores are .010"-.020" Deeper than the Bearing Spacer is Long! This keeps the inner Races of the Ball style wheel bearings from normally being 'Preloaded', too much.
Without the circlip on the right hand side of the Front wheel it could be Possible for the hub to 'walk', back and forth across the outside race of the bearings, especially on a fast, twisty asphalt highway (heavy braking, higher heat).

If one can find a shim of the appropriate diameter and thickness of the measured difference between bearing bores and spacer length, one could run With-Out a circlip on either the Front or Rear wheel!
Thanks Paul, as usual you've provided some great insight and what you say makes sense....OTOH, while I can see that what you're talking about is possible, I'm not convinced it's likely as the bearings would have to move in the bores to allow the wheel to "walk" and I'm not sure there is enough force to do that...certainly there are many people running without the circlip and I've not heard of a problem (doesn't mean it hasn't happened, of course).

I will refrain recommending running without the right hand circlip due to the possibility you've mentioned; better safe than sorry.

Cheers,
Dave
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