Chain Slipping - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 11 Old 06-03-2017, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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Chain Slipping

Have a 2008 KLR650, is slipping in first and second gears. Thought it was clutch, so I changed that. But still doing it. Believe it is on the chain side of the bike. Chain only has about 5,000 miles on it. Looks OK. Any ideas?
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post #2 of 11 Old 06-03-2017, 04:02 PM
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If a chain was "slipping" you'd hear it and I'd bet it would come off. Do you have freeplay in the clutch cable?
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post #3 of 11 Old 06-03-2017, 07:20 PM
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Check the front and rear sprockets. If the teeth are not worn down to nubs instead of teeth, they should at least be workable.

check the chain. Pull it away from the rear of the rear sprocket. If you can't see daylight between the chain and the sprocket, the chain should be workable.

Check the chain slack. With the bike on the side stand in neutral press the bottom run of chain up to the swing arm at the back of the black rubber slider around the front of the swing arm. If it just back of the slider, the slack is workable.

For a chain to slip one of the above items must be obviously in very bad condition. Not just off a little.

Slipping chains make a racket and vibrate some. slipping clutches don't.

A clutch that slips a little in first will slip a lot in fifth. A chain that slips a little in first might not slip at all in fifth.
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post #4 of 11 Old 06-03-2017, 08:11 PM
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If a chain can slip over the sprocket teeth the sprocket has No Teeth left, IMO.
Just nubs left and someone has tightened all of the slack out which terminates suspension travel and will soon terminate other things. Possibly your Life!

I have recently viewed a pic of a Gen2 (2008 & up) which the Output shaft splines are worn out. Therefore the transmission shaft is spinning inside of the sprocket.
There is possible good reason the factory recommends 72 ft lbs torque on that nut, they may have lessened the temper on those splines since Gen1.
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post #5 of 11 Old 06-03-2017, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
................
I have recently viewed a pic of a Gen2 (2008 & up) which the Output shaft splines are worn out. Therefore the transmission shaft is spinning inside of the sprocket.
There is possible good reason the factory recommends 72 ft lbs torque on that nut, they may have lessened the temper on those splines since Gen1.
Mr. Westman, if you are thinking that the countershaft nut was not tightened enough and the bent washer was not in place allowing the countershaft splines to get hammered out, it would be a good idea to check if the cush drive rubber damper is missing from the sprocket carrier in the rear hub and increasing the hammering effect.
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post #6 of 11 Old 06-03-2017, 11:48 PM
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Check sprockets.

Sharp, evenly-worn (not, "saw-tooth") teeth desirable.

Agree with GoMotor's post above. Clutch more likely to slip in higher gears.

Sad chain indeed if it is responsible for the slippage.
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post #7 of 11 Old 06-05-2017, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I am ordering Chain and sprockets! If that don't fix it. Is it possible for rear hub to slip?

I am guessing the
Primary Drive Steel Kit & X-Ring Chain
Fits: 2008 KAWASAKI KLR650
Part# 1097360219
Sold by Rocky Mountain is decent purchase for $82.99?

Last edited by klrhog7654; 06-05-2017 at 08:56 PM.
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post #8 of 11 Old 06-05-2017, 08:34 PM
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Can't see any way your chain would "slip" if you still have teeth on your sprockets.
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post #9 of 11 Old 06-05-2017, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoMotor View Post
Mr. Westman, if you are thinking that the countershaft nut was not tightened enough and the bent washer was not in place allowing the countershaft splines to get hammered out, it would be a good idea to check if the cush drive rubber damper is missing from the sprocket carrier in the rear hub and increasing the hammering effect.
GoMotor, it was pics over on .net, and I haven't checked back to read any update. But it wouldn't take much effort to attempt to rotate the rear sprocket back and forth.

The very early 1987 Gen1 bikes had some output shaft spline failures. '87 thru '89 models had the twist-lock retention plate, so the sprockets are actually loose to fret on the shaft. My bike is still solid. A friends '87 failed in 1988, required shaft replacement.

A lot of dirt bikes have rigid mount rear sprockets with quick change front sprockets, no cush drive. And we ram and jam and jump and clutch-less shift the heck out of them. Good tempering of the transmission shafts is required to take that kind of loose front sprocket fitment.
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post #10 of 11 Old 06-05-2017, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah it looks OK...a little loose of course but it should be slipping.
The clutch plates I pulled out didn't look horrible....
That's why I am a little confused.
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