"Dual purpose" bike comments - 1st post - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 73 Old 06-21-2017, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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"Dual purpose" bike comments - 1st post

Have recently started searching for a 2010 or later KLR to purchase so I don't have one at this time.

I was thinking of getting an extra set of wheels and mount street tires on them. Keep both of these at 19" wheel size to lower the bike a bit (I'm right at 6ft tall). I would mount knobbies on the wheels that come on the bike for my monthly weekend to the boonies. My question is pavement rideability/potential overheating on a KLR with street tires. It can get awfully warm here in Texas in the summer and my daily commute is about 60 miles through heavy traffic. Stop n go. Mainly stop!

I've looked at the Thermo-bob and it seems that a product like this might be a good investment. I am also thinking of installing a big bore kit from EM to help with the oil consumption/driveability of the bike. One question regarding the front wheel. Does changing the front wheel size affect the speedometer accuracy?

I would appreciate any/all thoughts on this subject.

I have noticed many posts regarding the oil drain plug thread/strip. I happen to have a car with an aluminum oil pan which is similar. Do a search on Fumoto and look at their products. I use this myself and it's pretty slick. You screw in the valve one time and use your finger/tool to open/close the drain valve without ever having to remove it. A potential bonus is some of the valves offered by this company includes a spigot where a hose could be connected. Since I don't have one of these bikes yet, I don't have anything to look at but it wouldn't surprise me at all if the skid plate had to be removed every time the oil is changed. If true, I'm thinking a valve with a spigot could have a hose connected to it and wrapped inside of the skid plate and held in place with a wire tie, etc. When ready to change the oil, get out your drain pan, pull out the connected hose and open/shut the valve. I'm definitely going to look into this when I get a bike but if anyone wants to get a head start, it would be great to get your feedback/thoughts on this.

Only other question I have is: Is there a way to create a signature for your post so you don't have to do it each time you post?

Thanks,

Rick
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post #2 of 73 Old 06-22-2017, 01:15 AM
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Q.) Does changing the front wheel size affect the speedometer accuracy?

A.) Yes it does. But as it comes stock, mine is at least 12-14% optimistic when I compare it to a GPS. 55 MPH indicated is actually 48 MPH according to the GPS.

Q.) Is there a way to create a signature for your post so you don't have to do it each time you post?

A.) Yes, See mine below. Go to "User CP" and its fairly intuitive.
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post #3 of 73 Old 06-22-2017, 09:00 AM
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The cooling system seems pretty well capable to keep from overheating as it comes, though I would like to have the fan come on a bit earlier than it does, but that's just me.

2016 KLR 650
2017 BMW S1000RR (traded in for
2018 Ducati V4S
1983 GL1100 Goldwing
2017 Yamaha R1
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post #4 of 73 Old 06-22-2017, 10:05 AM
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"Both 19" wheels?"

Rear's a 17" stock.

Changing wheel size bites off a lot to chew. Brake rotor and caliper bracket issues arise. We're talking cubic money here.

I've two sets of wheels, all stock; one pair shod with knobbies (Kenda TrakMaster IIs), another with a more pavement-friendly tread (Kenda K270). Best slab-biased tread I've found: Continental Trail Attacks.

Wouldn't over-think the oil drain plug . . . the enhancements you consider affect ground/skidplate clearance as a minimum. A plain ol' steel plug, maybe a magnetized low-profile one, will allow you to muddle through for the service life of the motorcycle. Serviceable skidplates available permit oil draining without removal of the protection, and . . . usually, balancer chain tension adjustment as well.

Regarding the Therno-Bob . . . while the device stabilizes coolant temperature more thoroughly, and at a higher temperature than the stock system, A THERMO-BOB DOES NOTHING AT ALL WHATSOEVER TO ENHANCE ENGINE COOLING. After the thermostat opens, you are at the mercy of coolant flow and air circulation, Thermo-Bob or not.

My suggestion: DANCE with the girl, AS IS, for awhile, BEFORE you send her off for a MAKEOVER!

And, rick-dallas . . . when, and if, you should EVER acquire a KLR650, of any vintage and condition, DO post of the event here on this website. Thanks!

Last edited by Damocles; 06-22-2017 at 10:36 AM.
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post #5 of 73 Old 06-22-2017, 11:25 AM
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I might try a lower temp stat and a bit lower temp fan thermo switch if cost is low enough before investing in a thermo-bob. I like to experiment with different options that way.
Mine sits at 3/4 temp scale quite a lot in hot weather and traffic.
As I understand it, TB helps more in cold weather, though it does come with a lower temp stat.

2016 KLR 650
2017 BMW S1000RR (traded in for
2018 Ducati V4S
1983 GL1100 Goldwing
2017 Yamaha R1
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post #6 of 73 Old 06-22-2017, 11:43 AM
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Good responses so far. To add to or reinforce what's been said;

- at 6' you shouldn't need to lower you bike unless you have extremely atypical leg length/height ratio
- 19" front and rear would be a big and expensive job. Yes the change in front wheel size will affect your speedo and going from a 17" rear to a 19" is bound to be problematic.
- The T bob is a great idea.....but as Damocles said, it doesn't affect overall cooling. This might be a useful read for you though: http://watt-man.com/uploads/Margin.pdf

Cheers,
Dave
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post #7 of 73 Old 06-22-2017, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan filipi View Post
I might try a lower temp stat and a bit lower temp fan thermo switch if cost is low enough before investing in a thermo-bob. I like to experiment with different options that way.
Mine sits at 3/4 temp scale quite a lot in hot weather and traffic.
As I understand it, TB helps more in cold weather, though it does come with a lower temp stat.
A lower temp stat would not increase cooling. The stock stat is wide open at 165 deg F. Well below mid scale. Removing the stat wouldn't increase cooling much either.

A lower temp fan switch wouldn't help much either because the stock switch has the fan on at just over mid range.

You could save your money for a larger radiator which would help, but you really don't benefit from running below mid range. I ran through the bottom of Death Valley at 117 deg F on my 2008 with no problems.

Last edited by GoMotor; 06-22-2017 at 03:01 PM.
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post #8 of 73 Old 06-22-2017, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoMotor View Post
A lower temp stat would not increase cooling. The stock stat is wide open at 165 deg F. Well below mid scale. Removing the stat wouldn't increase cooling much either.

A lower temp fan switch wouldn't help much either because the stock switch has the fan on at just over mid range.

You could save your money for a larger radiator which would help, but you really don't benefit from running below mid range. I ran through the bottom of Death Valley at 117 deg F on my 2008 with no problems.
My fan doesn't come on until at least 3/4 scale or a bit higher. Granted temp gauge could be slightly off on it's reading but the radiator is plenty HOT (indicating there is heat that can be removed) well below when the fan does come on, so I see there is some room for improvement by having the fan come on earlier.

I'll probably wire in a fan bypass ON switch to see how well the fan can bring the temp down during those extremes.

2016 KLR 650
2017 BMW S1000RR (traded in for
2018 Ducati V4S
1983 GL1100 Goldwing
2017 Yamaha R1
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post #9 of 73 Old 06-22-2017, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan filipi View Post
My fan doesn't come on until at least 3/4 scale or a bit higher. Granted temp gauge could be slightly off on it's reading but the radiator is plenty HOT (indicating there is heat that can be removed) well below when the fan does come on, so I see there is some room for improvement by having the fan come on earlier.

I'll probably wire in a fan bypass ON switch to see how well the fan can bring the temp down during those extremes.
Did you read the link I posted?

Cheers,
Dave
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post #10 of 73 Old 06-22-2017, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
Did you read the link I posted?

Cheers,
Dave
I did, but I'm more interested in lowering temp than raising it.

2016 KLR 650
2017 BMW S1000RR (traded in for
2018 Ducati V4S
1983 GL1100 Goldwing
2017 Yamaha R1
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