Doo Hickey and spring - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 9 Old 08-03-2017, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Question Doo Hickey and spring

I have read postings now until my eyes are like sandpaper, so without reading any further, does the 2011 KLR 650 actually need the aftermarket doo hickey or just a spring, a combination of them or ? This bike only has 2592 kms so I am not concerned it will fly apart, but want to be proactive on its needs.
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post #2 of 9 Old 08-03-2017, 02:25 PM
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The EagleMike Doo-Hickey is re-indexed and fits much tighter on the eccentric adjuster shaft.
The re-indexing allows much longer adjustment range, the OEM doo may run-out of available travel.

The EagleMike Torsion Spring was designed to fit the EM Doo, but a few people have installed them onto the OEM doo, I wouldn't/won't.

I encourage people to turn the engine to TDC to get all of the slack on the proper side of things when making a doo adjustment. OEM and EM.
Have you adjusted yours yet? I've found a couple of adjuster bolts had been left loose at the factory, Not Cool! That allows the doo to wear a trench into the case.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

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post #3 of 9 Old 08-03-2017, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
The EagleMike Doo-Hickey is re-indexed and fits much tighter on the eccentric adjuster shaft.
The re-indexing allows much longer adjustment range, the OEM doo may run-out of available travel.

The EagleMike Torsion Spring was designed to fit the EM Doo, but a few people have installed them onto the OEM doo, I wouldn't/won't.

I encourage people to turn the engine to TDC to get all of the slack on the proper side of things when making a doo adjustment. OEM and EM.
Have you adjusted yours yet? I've found a couple of adjuster bolts had been left loose at the factory, Not Cool! That allows the doo to wear a trench into the case.
I have not done anything to the bike as yet, just picked it up last night. I watched a you tube video on this issue. Most important is where can I but the doo and spring? I will change it and make sure other things are done if needed so no break downs I hope. Thanks for the info Pd!
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post #4 of 9 Old 08-03-2017, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
The EagleMike Doo-Hickey is re-indexed and fits much tighter on the eccentric adjuster shaft.
The re-indexing allows much longer adjustment range, the OEM doo may run-out of available travel.

The EagleMike Torsion Spring was designed to fit the EM Doo, but a few people have installed them onto the OEM doo, I wouldn't/won't.

I encourage people to turn the engine to TDC to get all of the slack on the proper side of things when making a doo adjustment. OEM and EM.
Have you adjusted yours yet? I've found a couple of adjuster bolts had been left loose at the factory, Not Cool! That allows the doo to wear a trench into the case.
Just askin' . . .

HOW MANY stock doohickeys (Idler Shaft Levers) have you encountered that exhausted their adjustment range?

(Granted, even ONE might be, one too many!)

And . . . a small detail: I think there are TWO (2) TDC piston positions per four-stroke cycle; do you refer to the TDC between compression and power strokes, or between exhaust and intake strokes?

If it makes any difference, my bet: You're referring to the former.

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post #5 of 9 Old 08-03-2017, 04:42 PM
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my standard doohickey post: I have spent significant time reading and researching this issue over the years as have others......my opinion is thus:

- Gen1: failure of the stock lever and/or spring is highly likely.......the people "in the know" guesstimate around 33% though I'd suggest the figure is somewhat mileage dependent with the 33% being around 20,000 miles.....higher mileage = higher percentage of failure.

- Gen2: doohickey lever failure is almost non-existant.......the issues of loose fit on the shaft and loss of spring tension are real and are said to occur around 6,000 miles though some have zero tension from new and some still have tension at 20,000 miles.



So is this all an internet myth? No, it's real enough IMO. There are several reasons that I believe contribute to the lack of even more documented failures:

- A great many people never adjust there counterbalance system. If the adjustment is never attempted, the system doesn't get the huge slack that an attempt with a broken spring or lever would introduce. I always tell new owners NOT to adjust the system without physically checking to see it's intact first.

- Most grenaded doo and spring bits float around harmlessly in the bottom end without causing catastrophic failure. My 2001 was opened up at 15,000 miles to find the typical broken doo (three pces) and spring (two pces). I found all the pces in the bottom end and oil screen and the bike was likely ridden for some time in that condition.

- the "upgrade" in 2008 significantly reduced the likelihood of a broken doo lever.

- a large percentage of bikes die of old age, crashes and neglect long before they can be considered high mileage units.

- many failures are never diagnosed......i.e. bike is "broken" and parted out or otherwise discarded.

- Sometimes other failures (i.e. 2008/2009 low oil level/oil burning) takes out the engine before the counterbalance system has the opportunity to.


At the end of the day, I believe that the stock counterbalance adjustment system is problematic but the vast majority of KLR owners are ignorant of the issue and it doesn't come up on their radar for the aforementioned reasons.

On a Gen1, I believe replacement is critical to longevity. On a Gen2 you could get along fine by just periodically checking the spring to ensure it is intact and has tension. Due to the loose fit on the shaft, the springs are put under significantly increased duty cycles, EM's superior lever with better fitment and the torsion spring design completely eliminate this concern.


A KLR, especially a Gen2 can live for quite awhile without even acknowledging the counterbalance adjuster.....but it's still a weak link that is worth replacing if you want some piece of mind.


2 cents,

Dave
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post #6 of 9 Old 08-03-2017, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the fantastic replies and knowledge. I feel that I am going to ride it as it is and come winter, change over the doo and spring for piece of mind...maybe. I have the tools and the knowledge, and come winter I will have the time, so a look would be worthwhile. Happy riding all. I may get down and ride in the Scotch Creek area with my father in law if you are interested in going for a tour of some old forestry roads etc.
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post #7 of 9 Old 08-04-2017, 04:21 AM
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My 2 cents on the doo I bought a 2010 with 2500 miles on it and after reading all the hype about the doo thought it best to replace it when I got into it the spring had no tension what so ever it was doing nothing. I replaced with the E.M. Doo and torsion spring and now ride at ease
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post #8 of 9 Old 08-04-2017, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdnemsguy View Post
I have not done anything to the bike as yet, just picked it up last night. I watched a you tube video on this issue. Most important is where can I but the doo and spring? I will change it and make sure other things are done if needed so no break downs I hope. Thanks for the info Pd!
I don't read as anyone suggested where to purchase the EM Doo and Torsion Spring and related tools and gaskets.

Eagle Mfg & Eng
But I believe he does have a couple of Canadian retailers, maybe 'A Vicious Cycle'?

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #9 of 9 Old 08-04-2017, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Just askin' . . .

HOW MANY stock doohickeys (Idler Shaft Levers) have you encountered that exhausted their adjustment range?

(Granted, even ONE might be, one too many!)

And . . . a small detail: I think there are TWO (2) TDC piston positions per four-stroke cycle; do you refer to the TDC between compression and power strokes, or between exhaust and intake strokes?

If it makes any difference, my bet: You're referring to the former.

Damocles,
None yet, but most WY riders are low mileage annually.
I have seen an '08 out of Billings MT that the OEM doo had been left loose, possibly by the factory, that wore a Trench into the inner cover mounting surface and would have only had about 3/8th to 1/4 inch of available adjustment range left.

As to which TDC to use for Doo adjustment? Compression or Exhaust? It doesn't matter for an adjustment. The Balance Weights and Crankshaft flyweights don't care where the camshafts are.
This was more critical in the Gen 1 models, IMO. And may have been part of the reason the welded Gen 1 doo's often fractured, too much slack was left in the system or possibly slack was even inadvertently added!
The earliest Gen 1 flat stamped sheet metal brackets that I've seen on the forums would get wallowed out by the eccentric shaft, because they had an even lighter spring.
If you could pull on my original '87 OEM spring you would swear it might be suitable for a toddlers toy, but not a 'Mouse Trap'.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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