[2010] Metallic Rattle on the Left Side - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 9 Old 08-30-2017, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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Question [2010] Metallic Rattle on the Left Side

Hi everyone, this is my first post here, hope I'm in the right section.

I've been on a road trip last w-e and since I came back, I've been hearing a metallic rattle which seems to come from the left side of the engine of my 2010 KLR 650.

I found a video on YouTube and what I hear is identical to what you can hear in the video (The video is called "KLR metallic noise from engine. What is this?", I can't post a link to it because I'm new here ). FYI: I haven't done the doo and just recently changed the oil (before the road trip).


Anyways, hope you guys can help, I'm worried it might be bad

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 08-30-2017 at 02:23 PM. Reason: added video
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post #2 of 9 Old 08-30-2017, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Ok guys, so I figured out what was wrong... I was running the bike way too low on oil, I didn't know KLRs burnt so much oil. It was missing a whole quart. I toped it off and the noise seems to be completely gone, I just hope I didn't break anything by running the bike so low on oil. That being said, I did an oil change like 3000km ago, so is it normal that it burnt so much oil? I did just go on a 2100km trip in 3 days and rode mostly highways.

Thanks!
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post #3 of 9 Old 08-30-2017, 02:28 PM
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KLRs burn oil at rpms over 5000. They pretty much all do. There's a fix for that, if you want to do a little bit of wrenching.
Read this:
http://www.souperdoo.com/stuff%20tha...ht-oil-burning

Being a quart low is not catastrophic.

Oil should be checked every time you get on the bike because it costs nothing, while running out of oil costs a lot.

A noise from the left side is often a loose balancer chain. How many miles are on the bike? Gen 2 are notorious for having a spring go slack very early one. Adjusting the balancer with a slack spring can cause the chain to become looser.

See this video.
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post #4 of 9 Old 08-30-2017, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Tom,

Thanks for your comment! The bike is a Gen 2 and has around 21500 km (13 000 miles) on it. I wouldn't mind doing the doohickey, but I don't know any mechanic in Montreal that does it. I'm not too bad with my hands, but drilling a small hole in my engine case scares me a bit, I must say. That being said, I will try and look for someone who can do it ASAP, because I don't want to ruin a perfectly running bike because I wanted to save a buck.

As for the oil, I was riding above 5K rpm constantly during my road trip, so that would explain it. I will definitely be more careful from now on.

Thanks again Tom, I really appreciate your time!
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post #5 of 9 Old 08-30-2017, 05:34 PM
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If you are not too bad with your hands, you can do it. It's not that bad of a job.

Have a look at these videos for a walk-through of the job. There are four videos totaling about 45 minutes, plus a fifth video on what to do if you didn't watch the videos and dropped 'The Washer' down 'The Hole'.

Sometimes YouTube is crotchety and won't play the series, so here's the URL to the channel. You can find the playlist there.
https://www.youtube.com/user/souperdoo
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I still held his automatic more or less pointed at him, but he swung on me just the same. It caught me flush on the chin. It was meant to be a hard one, but a pansy has no iron in his bones, whatever he looks like. -Philip Marlowe

'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used. -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 08-30-2017 at 05:41 PM.
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post #6 of 9 Old 08-31-2017, 05:49 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Tom, I will definitely give it a watch
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post #7 of 9 Old 08-31-2017, 08:39 AM
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You can take the outer case off and see if the spring is still functional (I'd bet a box of Tim Horton's finest that it isn't).You do that by loosening the adjustment bolt and watching the lever for movement.

If it doesn't move or worse, it loosens, not to worry. You can manually push the lever to the left to effect the adjustment. Then you've bought a lot of time to get the job done.
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I still held his automatic more or less pointed at him, but he swung on me just the same. It caught me flush on the chin. It was meant to be a hard one, but a pansy has no iron in his bones, whatever he looks like. -Philip Marlowe

'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used. -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
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post #8 of 9 Old 08-31-2017, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
You can take the outer case off and see if the spring is still functional (I'd bet a box of Tim Horton's finest that it isn't).You do that by loosening the adjustment bolt and watching the lever for movement.

If it doesn't move or worse, it loosens, not to worry. You can manually push the lever to the left to effect the adjustment. Then you've bought a lot of time to get the job done.
If I do that and it does loosen, do I need to fish out the spring or do I leave it in? That is an excellent idea by the way, thanks!
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post #9 of 9 Old 08-31-2017, 09:40 AM
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yasio, One would have to pull the flywheel rotor to pull the old spring out. So no, not yet.

You will remove the old style spring when you install an EM Doo-Hickey with Torsion spring.
The manual adjustment Tom mentions will give you 2000-5000 miles of time to get home or schedule time to perform the proper install of new parts.
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Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

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